DW 6239

[lhooq]

This project was about 95% complete when I posted pictures in my Vintage Daytona/Explorer Evolution thread a month ago. The missing piece? More of a missing link, actually, but more about that in a bit.

Compared to my other recent projects, this DW 6239 was a straightforward build. That's an amazing thing to say, considering the time and sweat consumed by my DW 6263! There's a few reasons for this: Learning-by-doing helped, and I had accumulated most of the necessary parts for this project over the past year. Perhaps most importantly, the DW 6239 case is built to a higher standard than the DW 6263. Yes, there are some issues with the shape of the midcase, and there were some sharp edges that needed smoothing, but the tolerances are tighter, both inside and out. My watchsmith was impressed by how closely the Asian 7750 fit in the case. Contrast that with my 6263, in which the movement was prone to shifting around, and would often be stopped by the caseback. There were no issued with the pump pushers, which were fitted to the case when I received it, so no glue required for this one. Engravings on the case and bezel were nice and deep.

I had wanted a white-on-black standard dial, especially the one with "Daytona" written in white above the compax at 6. However, anyone used to dealing with DW knows that you seldom get exactly what you want, unless you're willing to wait a very long time. (Ask the guys who are just now finishing their 7032s!) DW said it would take a few weeks, but mentioned that he had a good silver dial in stock. I already had a nice silver panda for my 6263, and didn't want to repeat myself. But I changed my mind when DW sent a high-resolution picture of it. (Not the one below.)

I'd seen this dial on RWG before, but never in a closeup shot. I don't think it would be a stretch to call this one of the best dials ever produced for a 7750-powered vintage Daytona. The printing is very clear throughout, from the "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH" to the numerals in the subdials. The sunburst pattern is well defined, and the coronet seems less flat than on DW's other dials. Unlike my 6263 dial, the "T SWISS T" is present at the bottom, though at the expense of one lume dot. Also unlike my 6263, the subdials are bolder both in texture and color. There is a clear delineation of their bases and the concentric rings within. The subdials are blacker, whereas the 6263 subs were more of a dark brown. That said, my 6263 dial looks like it's been around since the 70s, while this one seems like a service replacement.

As mentioned, the shape of the case is generally excellent, and the slightly blunter lugs better match the profile of the early Daytona. My big problem is with the big bulge under the crown aka "the tumah". This chubbiness is most evident in the area between the crown and the bezel. On a gen, the top of the mid-case should meet the bottom of the bezel. On this rep, there is a shelf that extends from pusher to pusher. In fact, the entire crown side of the mid-case is too thick, and could use a trimming from lug-tip to lug-tip. If anyone here wants to try this, please contact me so I can get started on a proper 6238! (And cc alligoat.)

On the left, the "shelf" is reflected on the bezel's underside. The crown is genuine, one of a threesome of 24-600-0s I bought for my 1016 projects. Obviously, I saved the worst for last, but it's fully functional. On the right is a diagram of the case's biggest faults. Apologies to Signor Stefano:

The 7205 expander was a lucky find, especially since it's in such terrific condition. All the links are aligned, the springs are still tight, and there are no deep scratches. I found it on eBay listed as an "18mm 7205 Rolex bracelet", which I assumed was an error on the seller's part. It turned out to be true; the 57 endlinks had been filed by half a millimeter on each side, as shown here. My watchsmith was able to fix it up with a spare 357 and 61--a bit of a mutt, but it worked. Last month, I was lucky to find someone selling a pair of 357s cheaply. Yes, I know that these don't belong on a 7205, but consider that the last time I saw a Daytona-specific 71 endlink, it was selling for $400. That's for one endlink! I also had the option of restoring this bracelet to its original state with a pair of 57s, but these are too narrow and too short for Daytona work.

The crystal is Sternkreuz's take on the domed Tropic 21, which I found to be slightly better than Clark's, as detailed in this comparison. Either one is a big improvement over the stock crystal. I also have a spare genuine T21 with the beveled edge, and I've no doubt that it would look spectacular on a 6239. But I really wanted to capture the look of an early Daytona, and the distortions of the older-style crystal have an appeal of their own. Under the right light, the combination of the domed acrylic and the silver sunburst dial produces some amazing visuals.

Here are my two generations of Daytona. When I first got it in January, the 6263's dial was more of a whitish silver, but it has aged very nicely these past 9 months. The tinge of gold/beige intensifies when the dial is viewed at odd angles. It will be interesting to see how the 6239 changes color.

It isn't easy choosing between the two, but I'll let the original Daytona take the spotlight for now. Pumps, rivets, dome... check!

[Eton]

Fantastic writeup M & simply gorgeous photos!

Wear them both in good health!

[freddy333]

Great review & pics.

[redwatch]

God that's gorgeous!!! This has been a really, really good year for you and watches LHOOQ!!!

With these builds, is the 7750 still auto - or are you removing the rotor and making them hand wind only?

[FxrAndy]

Sweet watches you have there

[lhooq]

Thanks, guys! It's been a great year -a damned expensive year- and it isn't over yet. I expect to be living in a cardboard box by Christmas, entertaining myself with these watches and a grimy loupe!

Both the 6263 and 6239 are rotorless. The 6263's movement had two auto-wind gears extracted in the pursuit of reliability. (See The Zigmeister's great post about the 7750.) I left these gears in the 6239's 7750, as I'm interested in seeing if/when/how problems develop.

[alligoat]

Great write up, M. Like I've told you, that 6239 is really growing on me!

I did file the tumah off my DW 6239/7750 case, file, file, sand w/ 340/400/600/1000, polish, polish. But I don't know if I filed enough, but I pretty much plan on staying with the 6239 bezel on that watch anyway. I got down pretty close to the crown recess and stopped. Now I need a T-21 aftermarket- did you get the Sternkruz from CousinsUK?

[freddy333]

I would not be too quick to remove those humps because alot of gens have some type of hump as well

Here is 1 of mine for comparison

Here is 1 of mine for comparison

From what I have gleaned from my picture archives, there is alot of variability in the shape of gen 62xx cases in this area.

[redwatch]

I quite like the hump. Gives it a little character

[lhooq]

I love the Sheartime-esque shot of your Honpo, Freddy! The problem, I think, is not so much the crown-bump itself (which, as you noted, is correct on some cases--the "seconda serie"), but more the surfaces between the crown and the lug tips. They're too thick, and ought to more closely match the shape of the lugs on non-crown side.

I'm OK with my 6239 as-is, but the bump makes it very problematic to build an accurate 6238. None of the 6238s had this bump, and the thinner bezel can't hide as much!

alligoat: I got this Sternkreuz (XS 306.449) from Ofrei, but Cousins must carry it, too. Clark's version is also good.

[StormTooper4]

Stunning looking watches with fantastic pictures, thanks for taking the time to put this up

[dieselpower]

Beautiful watches and beautiful photography. Well done indeed. Hope you're not eating bread and water for Christmas dinner. But, if you are - it was worth it!

[Toadtorrent]

Great write-up and those photos are fantastic.

[red series 3]

So will DW sell this item

perfect daytonawith the dial you have?

Or do i need to buy the dial also, do i just ask when i buy the item.

Thanks

This watch looks fantastic.

I want but not for $30000

Thanks

[lhooq]

Send DW a message through eBay, describing exactly what you want. The important options to specify are the dial [color, branding], the bezel, whether you want the fat caseback [for an automatic 7750] or thin [7750 minus the rotor], and whether or not you want properly engraved markings between the lugs and on the caseback [laser-etched is the cheaper option].

[vlydog]

Fantastic post M!

Love your photography and your taste in timepieces.

[gplracer]

Great post M! I really like the photos! Congrats on a great build!

[red series 3]

I just keep coming back and looking at this thread the photo's are just amazing. I have tried and tried since joining this forum to take pics of the watches i have but all i get is rubbish just blurred rubbish.

The 6239 in the earlier post with the black dial and white susbdials is like watchporn. When you buy from DW can you ask for the A7750 watch to come without the winding rotor?

Edited October 3, 2010 by Red Series 3

[freddy333]

When you buy from DW can you ask for the A7750 watch to come without the winding rotor?

No. Originally, the idea was proposed to use a manual-wind ETA chrono, but the wholesale cost of the movements was considerably higher than the auto-wind A7750 & DW did not think sufficient numbers of buyers would want to spend an additional $100-$200. So this is something you or your watchmaker would need to do at your end. Alternatively, you could purchase a DW from RWG member Spin, who performs the auto-wind removal for you (which I believe is based on this mini-tutorial). Someone else will need to chime in here with details on Spin's work, since I have never handled 1 of his modded watches.

[red series 3]

No. Originally, the idea was proposed to use a manual-wind ETA chrono, but the wholesale cost of the movements was considerably higher than the auto-wind A7750 & DW did not think sufficient numbers of buyers would want to spend an additional $100-$200. So this is something you or your watchmaker would need to do at your end. Alternatively, you could purchase a DW from RWG member Spin, who performs the auto-wind removal for you (which I believe is based on this mini-tutorial). Someone else will need to chime in here with details on Spin's work, since I have never handled 1 of his modded watches.

Thank you freddy is it fitting its the same watch in the tutorial too.

So does the caseback from the other gift case fit and is slimline?

[freddy333]

DW sells 2 types of 62xx Daytona cases - 1 made to fit the Valjoux 72 (V72) & the other to fit an Asian 7750 (A7750). The external dimensions/shape are exactly the same (because he uses the same case for both movements, only the inside dimensions differ - taller caseback for cases made to fit the A7750 & shallower/shorter caseback for cases made to fit the V72). If you plan to remove the rotor on your A7750, then you can use the shallower caseback & you need to specify the V72 caseback when you order from DW.

[red series 3]

DW sells 2 types of 62xx Daytona cases - 1 made to fit the Valjoux 72 (V72) & the other to fit an Asian 7750 (A7750). The external dimensions/shape are exactly the same (because he uses the same case for both movements, only the inside dimensions differ - taller caseback for cases made to fit the A7750 & shallower/shorter caseback for cases made to fit the V72). If you plan to remove the rotor on your A7750, then you can use the shallower caseback & you need to specify the V72 caseback when you order from DW.

Thanks freddy Throwing this out there! see how the leather band has end links to finish the case off. Does anybody make these up or is there a way to mod some end links for this look.

Also in regards to the lemania movements and their copies will these movements fit where a v72 belongs

[lhooq]

To date, no one has found a suitable alternative to the Valjoux 72. The V23 is the closest, mechanically, but you'll have to make do with a frozen subdial at 6. The rotorless 7750 is the best compromise.

The V7736 has identical functionality and, I think, identical subdial spacing to the V72, but I don't know anyone who has been able to fit it into a Daytona case.