Prsist Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Everyone talks about the need for a Rolex caseback opener, I have used a stick ball and a cheap generic opener and have never had a problem. Am I damaging something by not using a Rolex caseback opener? I never plan on getting any of my reps near water and if I wanted some sort of water resistance I would have it done by a fora repairman.
TeeJay Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 I've always used rubber dishwashing gloves, and it's no secret that my watches are exposed to water on a daily basis
Ronin Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 If it is put on correctly, or by a gorilla, yes. However, 9 out of 10 times, MBW included, The ORB, Duct Tape, or Rubber glove trick works.
Nanuq Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 The last three pieces I had serviced at watchmakers, I've been able to remove the backs with Gorilla tape, and each passed pressure tests after their servicing. You just gotta be motivated sufficiently.
Prsist Posted November 25, 2010 Author Report Posted November 25, 2010 The last three pieces I had serviced at watchmakers, I've been able to remove the backs with Gorilla tape, and each passed pressure tests after their servicing. You just gotta be motivated sufficiently. Can you close a case back too tight? Destroy a gasket?
Justasgood Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 Can you close a case back too tight? Destroy a gasket? Yes and maybe damage the threads.
Ronin Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 There was old rule from when I used to build race cars. (Ahhh the SCCA days). If it was not a "torque" wrench required fastener-- Tighten to a positive stop, + a 1/4 turn. NOTE: The above applies to cars not watches, but with experience you can use a similar logic. For me with watch bits-- Tighten to a positive stop, + an hour turn. (hour turn in my mind is - if you stop/bottom with your screwdriver blade at 12:00 & 6:00, turn tight to 1:00 & 7:00) ~make sense? I would use the same logic with a case back. Maybe going out "2 hours" for tightness.
sneed12 Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 "Hour turn" then would be 1/12th of a turn or 30 degrees. Sounds good to me. I've done spark plugs as "tight plus a quarter turn" for years.
Nanuq Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 Well said, Ronin. Remember that accurate torque settings are achieved with thread lube. It's a fine thing in my book to "accidentally" get some silicon gasket lube on the caseback threads as it screws on. Most people don't know it, but a fastener is simply a spring that gets stretched slightly. You tighten it to achieve a small amount of elastic deformation in the fastener. When it's overtightened you get plastic deformation and the fastener is permanently stretched and ruined. In the case of watch backs, probably the threads will be ruined. Same with delicate crown threads. I cannot get a caseback screwed on tight enough with Gorilla tape to damage the gasket or threads, but I can easily get it tight enough to pass 3 bar of pressure test. By-Tor could probably accomplish 50 bar.
dieselpower Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 Don't you have to use a hockey puck somewhere along the line?
automatico Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 "There was old rule from when I used to build race cars. (Ahhh the SCCA days). If it was not a "torque" wrench required fastener-- Tighten to a positive stop, + a 1/4 turn." Imho...the relax factory and most relax mechanics tighten casebacks too tight just to keep people out of them. After all, they are just squeezing a piece of greasy rubber. Around here, we go by the 'Good Ole Boy Rule': Tighten it 'till it gets easy...then back it off half a turn.
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