indyberetta Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I am wanting to build a "perfect" 1680 for my dad as a special birthday present. He will be 70 in November and I want to give him something special. When I was growing up he had a 1680 great white which he loved. I want to build him one as a present. I want to use a gen 1570 movement, and use mostly gen parts except for what rep parts I can get away with that don't scream fake. I have owned some great frankens in the past, but the game has changed the last year or two so I wanted to get the experts advise. Which case would you use that is closest to gen? (Dad still has his original papers for his great white and will probably have that serial # engraved on the case) I know the vietnam cases in the past were best, but not sure which ones are suggested. Which dial is best? I know their are many varieties out there. Which bracelet would you use? Which bezel insert? I am looking for the "best" for the money which I know many times can be argued. I don't want dad to ever be in the situation that someone has doubt. I have read many articles on here, but it seems that many of the suppliers have new stocks that are not like the old ones so many articles don't may apply anymore. Let me know what you guys think...I appreciate all input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribal Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Go for a NDT Case they can engrave serial u want. Gen Insert, Try to find a gen bracelet or a Gen clasp then you can take some good Rep bracelet parts. The Dial is a other story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 How much do you have for a budget? If you are going down the road of using a gen 1570, etc. I would say just buy a genuine white font 1680, which can be had for around the $4 - $5k range. A build will likely run you close to that figure once you factor in gen dial, hands, bracelet, insert, and small parts. Here's how I would break down the cost basis: -Gen 1570 $900; factor in another $250 - $350 for service overhaul. Call it $1200 said and done -Gen dial $350 - $600 depending on condition, condition, relume or original etc. -Gen hands $250 - $350 depending on condition, tritium color/tone -Gen 24-702 and 24-7020 crown/tube $150 - $400; the high end is if NOS and still in the blister packaging. -Gen 25-127 $200 for an original vintage top hat -Gen fat font insert/tritium pearl $350 -Gen bezel assembly $450 - $750 depending on whether it's a vintage or service item -Gen 93150/580 $500 - $800 depending on condition or -Gen 9315/280/380 $650 - $1k, again depending on condition/end links/diver's ext/date code -Case? Phong runs $1500 or so if I recall correct. I would pass on NDT- Their lug holes are not positioned correctly. I dunno that I would go with Yuki either. The cost will run up pretty quickly if using vintage parts. Service parts may be a bit easier to justify. But in the end, it's a pretty pricey endeavor to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I agree with Ubi. If it's a white font 1680 you seek, just watch VRF for the right one and pick it up in the $4-5K neighborhood. Maybe even contact guys like Jacek or Steve M directly about your inquiry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indyberetta Posted July 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Makes sense. How about doing a red 1680? Are there any decent rep red dials to consider? How good would just using one of the aftermarket cases with the supplied crown, tube, and insert be? Most of the 1680 have replacement parts on them by this age and most have service replacement parts. My goal is to use as many replacement/aftermarket parts as possible of course to keep the cost down, but I don't want it to be a bad franken either. I already have a 1570 out of a date just that is ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Well, my $0.02 is that I wouldn't go through the expense of a gen movement, expensive Phong case, other gen parts etc, only to put a rep dial on there. The dial is perhaps the most important part. Perhaps if you don't want to be in the $5k range, you could consider a gen white dial, with Yuki case, ETA 2846 + overlay, gen crown, gen crystal, gen insert. That might be better bang for the buck. Maybe sell the 1570 to help fund the rest of the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flex Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I've not seen a 'belivable' red dial. Sell the 1570. and use the money for a gen dial. Makes sense. How about doing a red 1680? Are there any decent rep red dials to consider? How good would just using one of the aftermarket cases with the supplied crown, tube, and insert be? Most of the 1680 have replacement parts on them by this age and most have service replacement parts. My goal is to use as many replacement/aftermarket parts as possible of course to keep the cost down, but I don't want it to be a bad franken either. I already have a 1570 out of a date just that is ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 I already have a 1570 out of a date just that is ready to go. 1570 from Datejust will not fit a submariner case. The calandar ring is the wrong shape and good luck finding the right one to convert it. You need the 1570 movement out of the "Date" model that has the correct calandar ring. If i were you I would sell the movement you have and put that money into a good case (MBW or better), gen dial, gen bracelet and a good new ETA movement. You cant see the movement anyways and a good strong ETA will keep just as good time, and you'll save $1000 right off the top. dizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Nice project and nice gesture... I'm slowly building another 1680 red version. I read about the problems with Yuki cases but seems they were an older batch and problems were sorted so i took the plunge and brought one. I haven't tried a gen movement in or an eta with the spacer but here are pics of the latest offering from Yuki.... Insert is a Watchmaterial with an Ofrei pearl, gen 703 crown, rep tube and a dial from a member here probably NDT origin... I had Yuki custom engravings. Crystal is gen and a good fit. The only problems i see so far is that the bezel insert is a loose fit so will need cementing in. Not sure if a gen will work either, gonna try one and find out. Crown guards as usual will need a little work too. Overall its a good quality case and well worth considering... I will use a gen 1570 in this project just to get the datewheel right. I think still the biggest flaw in rep 1680's is the datewheel. And there is nothing better than a flat 3 sitting pretty in the window of a gen 127. Well worth a thousand bucks..! Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I read about the problems with Yuki cases but seems they were an older batch and problems were sorted so i took the plunge and brought one. thats good to know, when did you purchase yours? its impossible to find perfect cgs, these look a little fat but the shape is nice. are you thinking of just doing the inside a little? is the custom case engraving included? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1680 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) The case looks very fine! If this was the latest version I'd consider buying it. Btw: the engravings looking correct as well, do you have a photo from the inside of the caseback? Edited July 7, 2011 by 1680 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 thats good to know, when did you purchase yours? its impossible to find perfect cgs, these look a little fat but the shape is nice. are you thinking of just doing the inside a little? is the custom case engraving included? i received this one a month ago, yes i will re-work the CG inside to gen spec. Custom engraving was 50 bucks. This one matches open 6 dial... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 The case looks very fine! If this was the latest version I'd consider buying it. Btw: the engravings looking correct as well, do you have a photo from the inside of the caseback? Here we go... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indyberetta Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Looks good! Keep us up to date on your progress. Thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sly Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Looks like this is good news about the yuki cases,I hope this is the same with his 5512 case that I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Nice project and nice gesture... I'm slowly building another 1680 red version. I read about the problems with Yuki cases but seems they were an older batch and problems were sorted so i took the plunge and brought one. I haven't tried a gen movement in or an eta with the spacer but here are pics of the latest offering from Yuki.... Insert is a Watchmaterial with an Ofrei pearl, gen 703 crown, rep tube and a dial from a member here probably NDT origin... I had Yuki custom engravings. Crystal is gen and a good fit. Hmm, I'm no expert... but that dial looks pretty darn good to me. And I only say that because I thought there were supposedly no good red rep dials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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