danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Okay, I swapped inserts (first time) and followed the tutorial to the letter. Used Gorilla Glue, used a needle and applied only a small quantity (obviously too much!) 24hrs later, I see glue on the underside. Clearly, too much especially since this sucker expands. What do I do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 acetone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiman12 Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Hammer and chisel???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetor Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 so you're trying to take the insert out or get rid of the glue? From researching in this forum, it was actually recommended that you use Shoe Goo. Why? it's non permanent, waterproof and doesn't expand when it sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) The glue has hardened and expanded! I agree, shoe glue was an option but did not have it. Gorilla glue was also an option and handy. Can I heat the thing and remove, start over? Edited July 20, 2011 by danielv2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I use lacquer thinner to take off the excess Gorilla Glue "seepage" on the insert and bezel. Actually a fingernail will also work... The insert should be anodized so most solvents will not harm it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I use lacquer thinner to take off the excess Gorilla Glue "seepage" on the insert and bezel. Actually a fingernail will also work... The insert should be anodized so most solvents will not harm it. Thats good info, I have lacquer thinner but have been afraid to use it in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offshore Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Lacquer thinner = Acetone. Acetone may have some adverse effects on the printed surface of your bezel, so keep it away if possible. Try "dabbing" with a cotton bud soaked in acetone. Eventually you may have to try to wedge the bezel off. What watch /insert are we talking BTW? O/S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Lacquer thinner = Acetone. Acetone may have some adverse effects on the printed surface of your bezel, so keep it away if possible. Try "dabbing" with a cotton bud soaked in acetone. Eventually you may have to try to wedge the bezel off. What watch /insert are we talking BTW? O/S Thanks. I've been practicing with a noob sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I use lacquer thinner to take off the excess Gorilla Glue "seepage" on the insert and bezel. Actually a fingernail will also work... The insert should be anodized so most solvents will not harm it. Do you think if I heat the insert, I will be able to get the insert off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offshore Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Do you think if I heat the insert, I will be able to get the insert off? No! I think you need to concentrate on getting the bezel and insert off, then worry about getting the insert out. You may have to finally crucify the insert, to sort out all the issues. But your 1st one is to get the bezel free from the case. Whether that takes just a solvent, or a solvent accompanied by some form of wedges, or even a full blown bezel remover being put into play, only you can judge. Once you have the bezel and insert clear, you can then play around and see if heat or soaking in solvent ( not both at the same time BTW) may free up the insert. Just put it all down to experience. READ MY SIGGY! O/S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I have stuck bezel inserts in bezels with all kinds of glue including the ever swelling Gorilla Glue. First time I ever used anything like GG was in the late 1970's when I bought some urethane glue. Next day the parts I had glued together were STUCK all right...but they were about 2mm apart. So...I stay away from GG on bez inserts. What I use is mostly 2 part epoxy. I tried RTV (silicone) and it is Ok but I just do not like it...the 'boogers' are a pain to remove. Tried 'waterproof' two part epoxy on a couple inserts but the 'waterproof' claim means little as regular epoxy seems to hold up Ok under (now and then) wet situations. I'm more worried about the case filling up with water anyway. Yesterday, I stuck a bez insert in a watch using the (motorcycle) trail rider's best friend...JB Weld because it was all I had. I put a thin layer of JBW on the bezel after cleaning the bezel and bottom of the insert with acetone on a Q-tip. I mounted the insert and double checked to make sure it lined up Ok at 12 with the clicks. Then I put the case on a cup in a BB crystal press with another cup on top with a layer of wax paper between the insert and the press cup in case some JBW leaked out (there is a notch in the cup to clear the pearl). Last, I tied the press lever down with a few stiff rubber bands to provide pressure overnight. For what it's worth, it turned out just fine. When using 2 part epoxy, I stick a couple toothpicks etc together with the excess so I can check hardness after a few hours to make sure it sets up correctly. JBW sets up harder than a $10 hooker's heart. Free short story: Motorcycle trail rider's around here carry 3 emergency tools...duct tape, contact cleaner/brake cleaner, and JB Weld. After busting a case or side cover on a sharp rock: 1...lean it over so the oil runs away from the damaged area 2...spray it down with CC/BC 3...spread JBJ around the damaged area 4...eat a sandwich and take a nap while it dries Contact cleaner/brake cleaner is also good in emergencys for cleaning dirt out of gouges in your arm etc and duct tape is good for coverinig up the gash...or makinig splints for broken arms, legs etc. A couple guys I know were riding around a deserted coal mine a few years ago and one turned a flip and landed in a pile of rocks. After he got back up he said he was Ok except his hand was hurting real bad. When he pulled his gloves off...his left little finger was missing. It got between the end of the handlebar and the rocks. They shook the finger out of the glove and put it in a little bitty cooler they had strapped on one bike and taped the end of the severed finger up with duct tape to slow the bleeding and took off to load their MCs up and go to the hospital. Iirc it grew back but does not work very well. Once again, duct tape saved the day although no JB Weld was needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I have stuck bezel inserts in bezels with all kinds of glue including the ever swelling Gorilla Glue. First time I ever used anything like GG was in the late 1970's when I bought some urethane glue. Next day the parts I had glued together were STUCK all right...but they were about 2mm apart. So...I stay away from GG on bez inserts. What I use is mostly 2 part epoxy. I tried RTV (silicone) and it is Ok but I just do not like it...the 'boogers' are a pain to remove. Tried 'waterproof' two part epoxy on a couple inserts but the 'waterproof' claim means little as regular epoxy seems to hold up Ok under (now and then) wet situations. I'm more worried about the case filling up with water anyway. Yesterday, I stuck a bez insert in a watch using the (motorcycle) trail rider's best friend...JB Weld because it was all I had. I put a thin layer of JBW on the bezel after cleaning the bezel and bottom of the insert with acetone on a Q-tip. I mounted the insert and double checked to make sure it lined up Ok at 12 with the clicks. Then I put the case on a cup in a BB crystal press with another cup on top with a layer of wax paper between the insert and the press cup in case some JBW leaked out (there is a notch in the cup to clear the pearl). Last, I tied the press lever down with a few stiff rubber bands to provide pressure overnight. For what it's worth, it turned out just fine. When using 2 part epoxy, I stick a couple toothpicks etc together with the excess so I can check hardness after a few hours to make sure it sets up correctly. JBW sets up harder than a $10 hooker's heart. Free short story: Motorcycle trail rider's around here carry 3 emergency tools...duct tape, contact cleaner/brake cleaner, and JB Weld. After busting a case or side cover on a sharp rock: 1...lean it over so the oil runs away from the damaged area 2...spray it down with CC/BC 3...spread JBJ around the damaged area 4...eat a sandwich and take a nap while it dries Contact cleaner/brake cleaner is also good in emergencys for cleaning dirt out of gouges in your arm etc and duct tape is good for coverinig up the gash...or makinig splints for broken arms, legs etc. A couple guys I know were riding around a deserted coal mine a few years ago and one turned a flip and landed in a pile of rocks. After he got back up he said he was Ok except his hand was hurting real bad. When he pulled his gloves off...his left little finger was missing. It got between the end of the handlebar and the rocks. They shook the finger out of the glove and put it in a little bitty cooler they had strapped on one bike and taped the end of the severed finger up with duct tape to slow the bleeding and took off to load their MCs up and go to the hospital. Iirc it grew back but does not work very well. Once again, duct tape saved the day although no JB Weld was needed. Quite a story! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 No! I think you need to concentrate on getting the bezel and insert off, then worry about getting the insert out. You may have to finally crucify the insert, to sort out all the issues. But your 1st one is to get the bezel free from the case. Whether that takes just a solvent, or a solvent accompanied by some form of wedges, or even a full blown bezel remover being put into play, only you can judge. Once you have the bezel and insert clear, you can then play around and see if heat or soaking in solvent ( not both at the same time BTW) may free up the insert. Just put it all down to experience. READ MY SIGGY! O/S Thanks O/S. Good info. Wish I had one of your handy tools to pull the bezel off! Will try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Got bot the bezel and insert off. Removed all gorilla glue. I am buying shoe goo tomorrow! Great advice here. Thanks all especially Offshore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
its_urabus Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I use gs hypo cement for this task. If you don't have a local supplier let me know, Boston has a number of suppliers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Like most everyone else, I've used all sorts of adhesives to secure a bezel insert. I am a bit rough on my watch, but GS Hypo didn't hold very long, and while I like RTV and it lasts the longest, it does have it's 'boogers' if you're not precise. I haven't, and won't use epoxy/JB Weld because I know that someday I will want to remove the insert to do something stupid to my watch again. Heating the metal bezel is touchy because most are plastic backed, and that's where the epoxy is. And using acetone will melt the plastic. It is further complicated for me using the plastic insert with the decal and paint sealed on the 6542. RTV does not clash with the material, but with no 'snap fit' of the insert to the bezel, all that holds it is the RTV and I've had failures. When regripping golf clubs the old fashioned method is to use ¾" or 2" wide double-faced tape, and activate the tape using a petro-based solvent such as Naptha. NOT acetone! Wrap the shaft with the tape, with a finger covering the hole in the butt end partially fill the grip with Naptha which softens the rubber, then quickly pour the solvent from the grip over the tape on the shaft to activate the glue on the tape, making it slick. Pinch the opening on the grip to slip it over the butt end of the shaft and slide it home, position it. It sets very fast, and after a few hours is playable. This bond stands up to twisting and torquing and pulling and moisture and weather, etc. So, I tried this on a plastic, enamel paint backed insert. I took a 2" wide piece of double-face golf grip tape (it is thinner than masking tape), put it on the bezel, 'tucked' it in the lip of the bezel with a finger nail, and trimmed it and the center out with an X-acto knife. Remove the tape backing paper, 'Dribble' Naptha on the tape, apply the insert and position. It's set in a few seconds. Clean-up of any residue, if needed, use the Naptha on a rag. I haven't has a failure yet, and it is easily removable. A small 'dribble' of Naptha, wait a few secs, and it comes free (any solvent will work, the old timers used gasoline when it was cheap! I found Naptha to be best and readily available in small quantity with a squirt top container. Cigarette lighter fluid is pure Naptha, and the tiny squirt top is perfect for the insert), Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 "I haven't, and won't use epoxy/JB Weld because I know that someday I will want to remove the insert to do something stupid to my watch again." I don't blame you...I'm not looking forward to it. I have used regular two part epoxy and removed the bezel insert later without a lot of trouble but JB Weld might be harder to deal with. I figure the insert will be ruined upon removal. On this case the bezel is held on the case by a spring wire so I will have to remove the crown, crystal, all gaskets, movement etc and heat the bezel insert to get the JB Weld to turn loose. There is no plastic or rubber left after removing the crown, crown gaskets, crystal, and crystal gaskets on this particular case and there is no gasket between the case tube and case. Crystal gaskets...this case has 2 crystal gaskets...one flat gasket on the bottom of the crystal seat to raise the crystal up a little and a regular 'I' type band gasket that the crystal presses into. Usually when a crystal needs to be raised up, a one piece 'L' type gasket is used. On the regular two part epoxy insert removals, I used a small torch that has a Bic lighter in it. It makes a blue pin point flame and works fine on this type of project. There is one similar to it on eBay, item number 170668364878 If I remove the insert later on, I will post how much trouble it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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