irolexu Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Just got my 2846 donor watch and had a few questions. 1 is it supposed to be 21 jewels or 17? Also when I pull the stem out it does not hack and when I change the time the second hand goes backwards?!?! Maybe I scored a time machine idk...and it does hack you just have to play with the time and it will stop when it wants to? This is going in my WBK 1665 case for my first red vintage 1680 sub build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 I'm not sure about the 21 or 17j but I think they made both. They don't hack and the only way I stop the movement is by turning the minute hand slightly backwards. That's normal but it should not start actually running in reverse for more than a couple seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 The one I have as a spare right now is 17. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 The ones I have are all 17 jewel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Yup, 17J is the norm (hack or non-hack OK), but the ones PT was getting in the 1665 Rep's were 21J Hacking versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 You can easily install a hack lever if you want, every 2846 I've seen has the post already there in the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 From reading the above posts it would seem that the early 17j were non-hacking and the later 21j one were hacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 "From reading the above posts it would seem that the early 17j were non-hacking and the later 21j one were hacking." That's probably right. I have a couple Jaques Prevard watches with non hack 17 jewel 2846 from the 1980's. The three new (now nos) 2846 I bought in June 2006 ($79!) are 21 jewel hack. There's not much difference in the life and performance between 17 and 21 jewel models in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 i wouldnt say "easily" for installing a hack lever at the noob level. 17 or 21 jewels i would choose 21 each and everytime, those non jeweled pivoting reversing wheels tend to stick over time, havnt had this problem on a 21j example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Thanks for the replys guys and gals if any. Then everything seems to be in working order. Now I just need to extract the movement and wait for my case dial and NATO strap for my first 1680 build . Which reminds me, do I use the existing crown stem from the 2846 or do I get a completely new one for the 1665 case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Use the existing as long as it's long enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Higheo is right the hack lever is all the way on the bottom of the pillar plate. The movement must be, virtually, disassembled to install the hack lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 "The movement must be, virtually, disassembled to install the (hack lever)." Here is what it takes... 1...Remove the autowind assembly (2 screws). Slightly wind the watch a few degrees if the aw assembly is hard to pry off. It should not take much pressure at all to pry it off. 2...Loosen the screw on the mainspring barrel slightly because there is no way to hold it later...just barely break it loose. MS barrel screw = the screw on the bigger wheel on the plate. 3...Let the power off the mainspring by: a...Winding the crown a few degrees while pushing the intermediate winding wheel away from the big wheel (ms wheel) on the plate that it runs against. The intermediate wheel is mounted on an eccentric post and is spring loaded to keep it in mesh with the bigger wheel. The screw in the intermediate wheel is LEFT hand thread if you ever decide to remove it. b...While holding the intermediate wheel out of mesh with a screwdriver etc...allow the crown to turn backwards slowly by holding tension on the crown with your fingers in order for the mainspring to unwind. DO NOT allow the movement to 'spin down'. 4...Remove the screw from the big wheel on the plate (the mainspring barrel wheel) in order to remove the ms wheel (gear) and mainspring bridge. 5...Remove the three screws holding the mainspring bridge, remove the bridge...and there it is! 6...Remove or replace the hack lever and put it all back together. Be sure the end of the hack lever goes in the groove in the winding wheel (castle shaped wheel/gear) that the stem passes through. No need to remove the stem during any of this. 7...Tighten the screw on the mainspring barrel wheel after the movement is back together including the aw assembly. The friction in the aw assembly plus the mainspring tension will allow enough resistance to allow the screw to be tightened sufficiently. There is a hole above this screw in the aw assembly plate. Proper 'watchmaker' terms not used...I used common sense terms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I am not quite at my tackling movements stage yet haha thanks though! I am just at the assembly point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1680 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I have a 2846 without hack which I regulate atm. When I set the time anticlockwise and put a bit pressure on the stem even the second hand runs backwards, with a little pressure the second hand holds its position (like hacking). How is it possible that the second runs backwards and does it damage the movement in any way? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 3...Let the power off the mainspring by: waiting a few hours until the movement stops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I am not quite at my tackling movements stage yet haha thanks though! I am just at the assembly point. +1 iRolexU - It's easy to list the actions by the numbers...it's quite something else to pick up tweezers and screwdrivers and actually do it when you've never done it. A 4 power visor is a must. I use mine all the time...as a matter of fact I am in need of a new set because I have thrown mine against the wall too many time. Geez, I love duct tape. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Well hey last night was a big step! First time ever breaking down a watch head and reassembling it! Had a 2846 I removed case back figured out how to release the stem then removed the plastic movement holder and put it all back together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now