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1675 Dial Question


vlydog

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To be clear, you are looking for a "Service Dial" right?

There are a few different "Service Dial's" out there and the "Tritium" ones will either be:

1.) "Washed" dials (i.e. no actual Tritium, just the white paint where the lume is supposed to go - see also my 1680 Service Dial and Ubi's 1665 Dial, these are examples)

2.) Tritium labeled dial but Rolex applied Luminova.

3.) Most recent Service Dial will be labeled "Swiss" and will be Super Luminova

Long story short, it might be a challenge to find an actual Tritium applied Service Dial.

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so the indices look creamy because the old tritium is showing through the luminova?

Hard to tell from the photo if they are creamy or it is incandescent light / white balance issue. But if it is yellowing, it might actually be a NOS (New Old Stock) dial and you are lucky. IF it really is a NOS Tritium dial with Tritium, $400 might not be a bad deal. The fonts place it somewhere in the late 1980's if I had to guess.

Ask him if it glows after being charged by sunlight/uv/light... If it charges and glows it is Lumi.

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Thank you gentlemen!

here is what the dial looks like:

1675-6.jpg

seller calls it a Tritium service dial

this dial is excellent, perfect, dont discuss more, stop to turn your finger in your ass trusting rep forum considerations,:lol:

seriously, this dial is perfect

buy it and good luck for your project !

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Sellers latest response to me:

he did point out the small defect between the 4 and 5 index marker.

"The dial does not glow anymore (not at all), and the tritium is not white but has a light patina (perfect patina for me). I'm 100% sure that is tritium."

Just realized that this was post 5000 for me.

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@gplracer Yes, you have to cut the feet, and the later model DG3804's seem to have a Date Wheel with "close enough" font to a service DW that aligns with a gen dial. The DG3804 also will fit in a GEN case with a Stilty/Yuki 1575 adapter with slight mods.

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Yes you will have to cut the feet off, but don't discard them! I mounted them in the movement and put on the dial spacer ring. Since on the 21j's the feet are held against the movement by screw pressure, I was able to fine tune them so the feet just met the top of the dial spacer. A dab of glue to tack them into place, then when it set, I removed them and soldered everything together. Then I mounted it back on the movement and put tiny dabs of white glue on the spacer and perfectly placed the dial. Removed everything when it set, then epoxied them together.

dial002.jpg

dial004.jpg

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Yes you will have to cut the feet off, but don't discard them! I mounted them in the movement and put on the dial spacer ring. Since on the 21j's the feet are held against the movement by screw pressure, I was able to fine tune them so the feet just met the top of the dial spacer. A dab of glue to tack them into place, then when it set, I removed them and soldered everything together. Then I mounted it back on the movement and put tiny dabs of white glue on the spacer and perfectly placed the dial. Removed everything when it set, then epoxied them together.

dial002.jpg

dial004.jpg

did you solder the feet to the spacer ring?

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did you solder the feet to the spacer ring?

Yep - the glue just tacked them into place. I've only done this on a 21J movement spacer. The ETA are too thin. I've just used epoxy on those. In both cases, the spacer with feet get permanently affixed to the dial with epoxy.

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