Serafino Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Seems like the lug geometry on the usual candidate gen cases may be different? Can anyone provide dimensions for a 1016 (and other gen Explorer cases for that matter) and the 1601, 16000 series and 162XX? Also any dimensions for common rep cases would be great. Aside from knowing the long dimension and the case thickness it would be interesting to know the overall height of the case without the back, and the distance between the lugholes along the case. I know making a donor choice is a lot about matching style and shape (been reading and re-reading the relevant threads), but I'd like to put those choices into a clear-cut framework if I can. Also do these differences affect what end links are needed? Might one for instance need to replace the end links on a Yuki 7206 to make it fit well to a 16000? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Welcome aboard! 1016, 1601, 16000 and 16200 cases are all very similar. All have 20mm between the lugs and the first 3 take plastic crystals. The 16200 has a sapphire crystal, but you can fit a plastic crystal (is it the T-22?) and then you probably need a custom bezel from jmb. I built my 1016 w/ a 1601 case, Clarks T-22, a custom bezel from jmb and a relumed dial from LHOOQ, who by the way is the resident guru on the vintage Explorer. You might search for his posts on the subject. As for end links, you're best off w/ the specific end links which fit the case you're using. I'm not sure if the Yuki 7206 works with the three Datejust cases, but LH would know that answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grejyedi Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Alligoat, I have been curious for some time. What is the document you have in the background of your pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Not sure if you've seen my "Why not a 16000?" thread, but the visual comparison may be useful to you. You should be able to use a Yuki 7206 on any of these. The endlinks are just about flush-fit on my 1601-based Space-Dweller, and ought to look good on the thicker DJ cases. greyjedi: I'm pretty sure that's Skeet/Urul's Vintage Rolex Sports Models in the back of alligoat's pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Not sure if you've seen my "Why not a 16000?" thread, but the visual comparison may be useful to you. You should be able to use a Yuki 7206 on any of these. The endlinks are just about flush-fit on my 1601-based Space-Dweller, and ought to look good on the thicker DJ cases. greyjedi: I'm pretty sure that's Skeet/Urul's Vintage Rolex Sports Models in the back of alligoat's pictures. Well...Ali and LH...while we're here...Does a gen 1601 crown fit the 24-6020 case tube or is it another tube? Also, I need to drill and tap. Do you know what the drill and tap would be for a tube that would take the above described crown? I have heard that it is the same as a 702/703. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Well...Ali and LH...while we're here...Does a gen 1601 crown fit the 24-6020 case tube or is it another tube? Also, I need to drill and tap. Do you know what the drill and tap would be for a tube that would take the above described crown? I have heard that it is the same as a 702/703. Thanks! Honestly, I still get confused about which 6mm crowns fit on which tubes. 24-6020 is the older, wider tube, correct? If so, then it should fit a -600 crown and a 1601 case with no problem. No need to drill/tap the case, either, unless it's a newer one that takes a 5.3mm tube e.g. a 162xx. But that's a lot of extra effort for such a tiny bit of detail. Who's going to call you out while you're setting the time? As always, automatico has some good info on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 All 1600 etc and 16000 etc steel cases use a standard 6.0mm case tube, either the early type that had to be broached after installation (24-6000) or the modern type that does not have to be broached (24-6020). Go with the modern type. 1600 etc and 16000 etc steel cases use a standard 6.0mm crown, p/n 24-600-0 for steel (yg 24-600- 16200 etc steel cases use modern no broach 5.3mm case tubes p/n 24-5320 16200 etc steel cases use a 6.0mm crown that fits on a 5.3mm case tube p/n 24-603-0 for steel (yg 24-603- Iirc, it's from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I do not know why the 'masked bubblegummer' showed up on the post but the numbers are 24-600-8 and 24-603-8. Maybe it's double secret encoded info known only to rwc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 No need to drill/tap the case, either, unless it's a newer one that takes a 5.3mm tube e.g. a 162xx. But that's a lot of extra effort for such a tiny bit of detail. Who's going to call you out while you're setting the time? I understand what you are saying about the effort. The reason I asked is that I purchased a 16014 case without noticing that it didn't have a case back (shame on me). While searching for a case back I wanted to put the watch in one of jmb's rep cases, which I have. I have a gen 18k YG fluted bezel and crown that I would like to use. I also have a gen gold dial. If one of you has a case back that would work, I would happily send you money in return for it and then I would have one great franken on a brown croc strap. Then the problem would be solved. The 16014 case I purchased has an 18k WG fluted bezel that is probably worth what I paid for the case. @LH and automatico - Thanks for replies...good info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Alligoat--thanks for the welcome! Yes I've been reading and re-reading LH's posts since I found this forum, I have also been doing my best to wear him out with questions and blather via PM as well. This forum is an awesome resource no doubt. LH--yes I have seen that 16000 thread, in fact it has been staring at your comparison picture that led me to want measurements to confirm or correct my impression that there are differences in the lug geometry. Automatico--thanks for the crown/tube info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Here's a drawing just to clarify what I mean. (I'm assuming that all nominal "36 mm" cases are the same 35.5 mm measurement across the case?) Surely knowing these dimensions would help one make decisions about donor cases or reps? I did find one reference online to the 1016 being "35 mm x 45 mm". So there, subject to interpretation, is one data point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Preacher, see if the back off the rep case fits and if so I'll try one of the plain backs I have to see if it fits that case... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Surely knowing these dimensions would help one make decisions about donor cases or reps? Well, it would if you had a genuine 1016 to compare them with. Perversely, this is one reason why I'm still in the hunt for one--to improve the frankens! I've got three genuine Datejust cases and one rep DJ case from jmb. I'll bring out the calipers when I get home from work later. I usually stick to visual comparisons, since it's difficult to quantify the curves of a lug. Off-hand, I think you could get an accurate 1016-alike if you extensively reshaped the squarish lugs of a 16203 so that the tips are more slender, the curves gentler, and the droop less severe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Thank you very much LH for taking the time. I sometimes end up doing overlays to help with visual comparisons. This one shows the sort of thing that made me wonder what the actual dimensions are (scaled to match the bottom corners of the bezel, and showing asymmetries which seem common in close up watch photography). Don't set too much store by this, perspective effects alone are likely to make drawing strong conclusions from it ill-advised, and my scaling may have been based on a false assumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Preacher, see if the back off the rep case fits and if so I'll try one of the plain backs I have to see if it fits that case... I tried that and the opening on the 16014 is much larger. The rep case back just falls in...the threads just bypass each other. Thanks for that new drilled case for my 1016. The drilling is nothing short of factory. I'm just waiting for some endlinks that take 2mm spring bars. When I tried to drill the endlinks that I have there was nothing there to drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Well, that took longer than I expected. Here's what I have. Measurements are for case length (lug tip to lug tip), "wheelbase" (from lughole centers), and lug height (top of midcase to tip elevation): 1601: 43.0mm, 39.0mm, 6.0mm 16014: 44.3mm, 38.8mm, 6.5mm 16203: 43.9mm, 39.0mm, 7.0mm jmb's DJ: 44.1mm, 38.6mm, 7.0mm Give or take 0.25mm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Very good information. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Thank you LH, very interesting and helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ile Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 As far as i remeber the gen 1016 exp 1 i have seen years back was 34mm not 36. Were there 2 versions of 1016 or i am starting to loose memory . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Look what I found (ile, most of the 1016 references I've seen say 36 mm. There are 34 mm Explorers but I won't try to detail the numbers as I'm likely to get it wrong.) (found here: http://ebaytopbidder.blogspot.com/ ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ile Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Spot on Serafino :-) I did a bit of research as well. 1016 was definitely 36mm and the 34mm one was the 5500 explorer. I was wrong on this. This is my 5500 king I am thinking about converting it to 5500 explorer if i manage to get agood dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CptTripps Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Not to dig up an old thread, but since search still isn't working, this is the only one I could find that was helpful. Anyone have a good suggestion on hands for a project like this? I'd bought a set of 5513 hands, thinking they'd work, but the minute hand is way too big for the movement. (Gen 1560 butterfly movement) I'm trying to get this as close to spec as possible. Was going to get a 16203 case, but I'm not sure if the 1560 movement will fit it wothout modification. Thoughts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Here is my 1016 Build. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/151625-1016-wip-almost-fin/ See also, http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/156859-1016-on-bracelet-or-leather/ Honestly, from an on the street and wearing it perspective, don't get hung up on fractions of a mm. My 1601 based build was as easy as 1-2-3.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Have you guys seen the new Yuki 1016 case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Have you guys seen the new Yuki 1016 case? I'm looking at the pictures on Yuki's site right now. I suspect that it's very similar to Yuki's old 1016 case, but it's hard to say without putting a pair of calipers to it. What I will say is that the lug profile in the top photo looks wrong. Too bulky (like a modern Datejust), and not droopy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.