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1680 Franken


vlydog

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What case would you use?

Isn't the MBW 1680 really a 5513 case? Without going to Phong or Ndt, is there a reasonable case set?

I have about 15 watches ( in my head lol ) planned. A 1680 is on the list.

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What case would you use?

Isn't the MBW 1680 really a 5513 case? Without going to Phong or Ndt, is there a reasonable case set?

I have about 15 watches ( in my head lol ) planned. A 1680 is on the list.

I used a Vietnamese case.

I posted because there is a service set (dial and hands) on VRF right now.

Seller will negotiate.

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"Isn't the MBW 1680 really a 5513 case?"

I have one of the 'new' MBW/MBK 1680 watches and the interior of the case is a lot closer to being in spec with a genuine 5513 than a genuine 1680. I tried a 1520 with a 5513 dial in the case and it was real close.

I doubt a 1680 dial and 1575 would work without some work (maybe a lot of work) because the stem will be too far toward the back of the case because of the thicker movement. For a 1680 MBW/MBK, I would stay with an Eta 2846.

The MBW/MBK case has 'stainless steel' L342301 engraved on the 6 o'clock end and 'original polex design' and 1680 on the other end. The laser etched lettering inside the caseback is 'splashy' and not very good. There is a gasket groove cut in the case under the inner bezel same as later genuines.

The OD of the case neck is 28.15mm same as genuine.

The ID of the inner bezel is 30.15mm.

The fit and finish of the case is very good.

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Thanks for the info auto, I haven't seen a MBK/MBW yet. Mine are the older ones.

My 1665 and 5513 MBW both have that gasket seal groove under the bezel.

Your 1680 case sounds good. I may ask narikaa to get me one when I'm ready for a 1680.

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I'd love one but would prefer to trade my Franken Pam 24 for one. Not sure if I have the patience for another long term build

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Yep

Prefer a Franken 1680 trade though

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  • 2 weeks later...

"Isn't the MBW 1680 really a 5513 case?"

I have one of the 'new' MBW/MBK 1680 watches and the interior of the case is a lot closer to being in spec with a genuine 5513 than a genuine 1680. I tried a 1520 with a 5513 dial in the case and it was real close.

I doubt a 1680 dial and 1575 would work without some work (maybe a lot of work) because the stem will be too far toward the back of the case because of the thicker movement. For a 1680 MBW/MBK, I would stay with an Eta 2846.

You need to shave about 0.5mm off the gen 1680 dial all the way around to get it into a Polex 5513 case. You're right about the 1570 movement alignment. I would stick with a 2846 as you suggest.

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"You need to shave about 0.5mm off the gen 1680 dial all the way around to get it into a Polex 5513 case. You're right about the 1570 movement alignment. I would stick with a 2846 as you suggest."

I have told this story before...

I put a 'low ball 5513' together using a DW 5513 mid case etc, rolex 1520, and a 26.0mm IG44 5513 dial. The dial hole in the case was just a shade over 26mm. I wondered how this would work but someone posted pics of a genuine 5512 (same as a 5513) and the dial hole was a shade over 26mm also. Last time I worked on a 5513 was 10 or 12 years ago and I could not remember how it went together.

I stuck the DW '5513' together and everything fit fine...the dial goes through the dial hole in the case just a little bit and is not touched by the case at all. The movement mounts up against the inside of the case and holds it all in place. Only the dial feet hold the dial on the movement.

The dial hole in my MBW/MBK Polex 1680 case is 25.4mm and a 26.0mm dial will mount against the inside of the case in the normal manner. It does look like the id of the dial hole needs to be enlarged a little so too much of the minute marks will not be covered.

Anyone with a genuine 5513 measure the id of the dial hole and post it if you get a chance.

"As long as we are on the topic what do you guys think of the older Yuki cases (for gen movement)?"

I had one of the earlier Yuki 1680 cases a couple years ago (it was about 2 years old then), and it was very good...everythig fit and it looked just like a genuine case. The 'short E' inside the caseback was a tell but not many know to look for it. My guess is that as more and more 'greenhorns' hire on in rolex service centers that cases as good as Yuki, Phong etc will sail right through if they are aged and everything else is genuine. Otoh...rolex service will not take in many 5513/1680 etc (less every year) so it will not matter before long.

If you keep up with VRF etc you will see that many of the self proclaimed 'rolexperts' can not tell genuine parts from top grade replica parts anyway...and I really doubt if I could tell a top grade replica case or dial from genuine either.

Not much gets by the more knowledgable posters on this forum however.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm very interested in this thread as I've been seriously contemplating treating myself to my birth-year red 1680.

However, with prices for decent samples around $7-13k, and with the added uncertainty that I may be spending my hard earned money on a Franken anyways, I'm seriously considering just building my own from a Phong case, NDT dial and ETA(sacrilege!) movement.

Are there any better building blocks to get a decent early 70's red 1680 for under $1500?

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I have a theory, and I base it off bits of rumors I've heard.

I think Phong, Ndt, and maybe Yuki get their cases from VN.

Again, hunch ....not fact :)

phong claims to make them in house, yukis im pretty sure comes from shenzhen, and NDT claims to not be of asian origin, i even talked with the distributor who also backs this up. mbk claimed europe but also didnt disagree when i suggested taiwan, but more likely shenzhen.

but who the hell really knows.

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