Ways to Get Gen Rolex Parts

[Cromag]

Looking for recommendations and ideas on how to get gen Rolex items like dials, bezels, hands, and other parts.

Can they be ordered through a dealer or the factory? Do they want a serial number?

How have people gone about to successfully squire gen parts?

Are there members who specialize in selling them?

[panerai153]

You might as well ask for the keys to Ft Knox!! Rolex has clamped down on their parts to the point that they are almost unobtainable. Most of the watchmakers who have parts accounts with Rolex will not sell you anything out the back door,as Rolex has no qualms about closing their accounts for parts. Even guys here on the forum that have had good relations with Rolex watchmakers cannot get parts anymore,at least not in the USA. Occasionally parts come up on the parts sales forum.Vintage parts are easier to find, but quite expensive. The Vintage Rolex Marketplace is the best place to look for vintage parts.

[automatico]

Q..."Looking for recommendations and ideas on how to get gen Rolex items like dials, bezels, hands, and other parts."

A..."You might as well ask for the keys to Ft Knox!! Rolex has clamped down on their parts to the point that they are almost unobtainable. Most of the watchmakers who have parts accounts with Rolex will not sell you anything out the back door,as Rolex has no qualms about closing their accounts for parts. Even guys here on the forum that have had good relations with Rolex watchmakers cannot get parts anymore,at least not in the USA. Occasionally parts come up on the parts sales forum.Vintage parts are easier to find, but quite expensive. The Vintage Rolex Marketplace is the best place to look for vintage parts."

panerai153 is right.

Repair shops that no longer work on rolex watches may have a few (vintage) movement parts and a crown or crystal but now parts for modern watches are getting hard to find. Dials, hands, bracelets, cases etc come up on eBay now and then but lately it seems like prices have been higher than usual. Movement parts come up on eBay too but prices are often 2x higher than they used to be.

It's a losing battle and even if you find an all genuine rolex for a good price, you are still at the mercy of rwc for parts and will be forced to pay nose bleed prices for labor from independents or 'factory' service.

All rolex watches need parts and service, they are not much more reliable than mechanical watches of the past...that's why they have the largest parts/repair service network in the world.

The good news (depending on perspective) is that replicas have come a long way and 'high grade' examples are 75% of the watch for 5% of the price.

Times sure have changed...genuine rolex watches are for selling or parting out, not to wear. Ha!

[freddy333]

The good news (depending on perspective) is that replicas have come a long way and 'high grade' examples are 75% of the watch for 5% of the price.

Ditto.

I would add that things are so tough now that Rolex US will revoke the parts account of any watchmaker within their official network who is caught selling parts - new or used. This is new & I fear it will soon become Rolex SA policy as well.

[Ronin]

Ditto.

I would add that things are so tough now that Rolex US will revoke the parts account of any watchmaker within their official network who is caught selling parts - new or used. This is new & I fear it will soon become Rolex SA policy as well.

+1. A very well respected local watch shop in my area, that actually has a Rolex Parts account-- often fits AFTERMARKET parts to Rolex's he services. It is easier and cheaper for the non-WIS customer, and less paperwork for him. He "Gives them the option", but surprisingly most of his customers take aftermarket crystals, inserts, and hands.

Again, we, and the guys are VRF/TRF are probably not the 'norm' when it comes to keeping it 100% Rolex. Your options: eBay, VRF & TRF and the thrill of the hunt if you want the real deal.

So, next time "you think" the guy next to you at the bar is wearing a Sub "rep" because of a bad pearl on the insert-- just remember, maybe he took the aftermarket option from an Indie Shop.

The "Rep", "Franken", "Gen w/aftermarket service parts" line will be one nice muddy mess.

[freddy333]

I am sure that happens (Watchmakers within the Rolex network fitting aftermarket parts to Rolex watches), but I think it is far more the exception rather than the rule. For decades, Rolex has prohibited the installation of non-Rolex parts in their watches. In fact, there have been numerous court cases over the years brought against Rolex by indy watchmakers or consumer organizations in efforts to stop Rolex from restricting their ability to engage in 'free trade' on behalf of owners & customers. To the best of my knowledge, none of these types of cases have been successful. So if 1 of your indy's customers even happen to have another Rolex watchmaker work on their watch (likely), at the very least, he would lose his account. At least, that is the word I hear from reliable sources within the network.

[correctime]

Go in to a pawn shop, find a model you like and ask them if they have any problem with your taking it into an AD to appraise and verify it as being authentic.

Leave your credit card with them as collateral.

Take it home, pop off the bezel and then take it into an AD for a replacement, explaining you had an accident that pulled the bezel off.

(many AD's have bezels, crystals and insert in stock and will install them for you.)

Go back home, swap out the bezels and then go back to the seller and give a reason why you're going to hold off on the purchase for now. (maybe the wife said "no".)

Or maybe then pull the crystal, take it in to a different AD and go through the motions again.

It'll likely eat an entire day and require some planning ahead but your efforts could net you the Brand New parts you're after at a fraction of the cost you'll pay for the used ones on the gray market

If you can even find used parts of what you're after.

.............just a thought

Another thought would be to buy a gen, pull the parts you're after and sell the rest parted out.

(many still aren't convinced that's it's next to impossible to build a gen for less than you can buy one outright...and there's always someone looking for this and that.)

(this will take longer and initially cost more but it can be done.....and that's the thrill of the hobby for many of us...the thrill of the hunt and the acquisition. What's fun about buying a gen just to wear?)

Edited October 14, 2012 by correctime

[Ronin]

I am sure that happens (Watchmakers within the Rolex network fitting aftermarket parts to Rolex watches), but I think it is far more the exception rather than the rule. For decades, Rolex has prohibited the installation of non-Rolex parts in their watches. In fact, there have been numerous court cases over the years brought against Rolex by indy watchmakers or consumer organizations in efforts to stop Rolex from restricting their ability to engage in 'free trade' on behalf of owners & customers. To the best of my knowledge, none of these types of cases have been successful. So if 1 of your indy's customers even happen to have another Rolex watchmaker work on their watch (likely), at the very least, he would lose his account. At least, that is the word I hear from reliable sources within the network.

Yep, another parallel to the auto industry. Laws have been passed to protect the consumers rights to have their vehicle serviced outside of the dealer, and also not to have warranty's null and voided for aftermarket part installation. I actually think a savvy Lawyer or Class Action could succeed against the Rolex "alternate reality" based on that precedent. (I laugh every time I see the bottom of a RSC receipt where it tells me (paraphrasing) "my personal property [Rolex Watch], that I paid $$$$ from a Rolex AD will ~magically~ turn counterfeit with the installation of a non-Rolex part". Total Bull$hit that would never stand up in a courtroom.)

I fail to see how my particular watchmaker could lose his account "if the customer approves the installation of say a Clark's crystal". The burden of proof is too great for Rolex to will-nilly pull the account on what would essentially boil down to "he said, she said". I also don't see Rolex running stings against Indies. I could be wrong. Sounds like you have better inside sources.

The way I obtained my information was using a similar approach to @correctime above. I was trying to score a Bezel/Insert back when I was doing my 1675 project. Went in with the "lost bezel" ploy, and thus the aftermarket-vs-Rolex discussion was had. (I wound up NOT getting a bezel from him, and he did try and push what was essentially the same product WSO sells. )

[dan_189]

the thrill of the hobby for many of us...the thrill of the hunt and the acquisition. What's fun about buying a gen just to wear?)

Very well said

+1

[red series 3]

I'm not sure whether this applies outside of the US Ronin.

I have a good relationship with the Service Centre in Sydney Australia.

The lady there said that if a watch is brought in for authentication with a rep band / dial they would recommend the replacement to genuine parts if the quote was accepted they would retain the rep parts and dispose of them. Although they would not service the watch without returning it to its original state.

I did a sneaky when I serviced my sub LV and popped off the bezel insert before bringing it in. I planned on replacing the service insert with the original one and selling the service insert but haven't had the urge yet.

[red series 3]

Oh I was going to say that the exclusive Rolex service agent for Sydney in the 80's has huge parts racking at his shop.

I have dreamt that one day he will sell me parts.

But he holds onto them like they are his only opportunity to maintain his once profitable business.

[gavidoc]

Go in to a pawn shop, find a model you like and ask them if they have any problem with your taking it into an AD to appraise and verify it as being authentic.

Leave your credit card with them as collateral.

Take it home, pop off the bezel and then take it into an AD for a replacement, explaining you had an accident that pulled the bezel off.

(many AD's have bezels, crystals and insert in stock and will install them for you.)

Go back home, swap out the bezels and then go back to the seller and give a reason why you're going to hold off on the purchase for now. (maybe the wife said "no".)

Or maybe then pull the crystal, take it in to a different AD and go through the motions again.

It'll likely eat an entire day and require some planning ahead but your efforts could net you the Brand New parts you're after at a fraction of the cost you'll pay for the used ones on the gray market

If you can even find used parts of what you're after.

.............just a thought

Another thought would be to buy a gen, pull the parts you're after and sell the rest parted out.

(many still aren't convinced that's it's next to impossible to build a gen for less than you can buy one outright...and there's always someone looking for this and that.)

(this will take longer and initially cost more but it can be done.....and that's the thrill of the hobby for many of us...the thrill of the hunt and the acquisition. What's fun about buying a gen just to wear?)

Major issue with your scenario.

Rolex will no longer allow AD's or independents install bezels or bracelets. Any bracelet purchase/replacement, dial replacement and/or bezel replacements are to be done by an RSC only. AD's are instructed to send the watches to RSC at AD's expense for the proper work. Inserts, crystals, hands are ok. AD's and independents are now supposed to keep records of the serial #'s for the watches that the hands are replaced on. Hands are order only.

This info comes from two different sources. The AD I used and an independent. The independent was able to get me hands for my 1680 but my 1680 is now on file with RSC as having the hands replaced. To get a spare bezel, I would have had to take my 16800 to the AD who would send it to RSC for bezel replacement. IIRC, the quote came in at $150. I ended up sourcing a bezel on my own for $190.

It is much easier to get parts from Rolex AD's and independents everywhere else besides the US. Some places are harder then others. Easier are places like the UK, Germany, and Australia. It is common to see parts from sellers located in these countries. They are able to turn a high profit on harder to find items.

some items though are not that much more expensive then if you bought them in the network though you lose your originals. Take a 1680 service dial. You can sell a service dial on the black market for around $500. Rolex charges $400 in the US and keeps the original. Hands, typically will run around $150. Rolex IIRC charges around $100 and keeps the originals. Inserts, black market it is hard to get them for a large amount over what an AD typically charges which is $100 on average. New bracelets on the black market run around $1000-1200 IIRC. Through an AD it's what, $900-1000 for the older 93150?

Harder to find parts will have a significantly larger markup such as LV inserts, dials, hands, etc. as these are now exchange only.

Rolex US changed things near the beginning of the year which has made it even harder.

[panerai153]

The reason they can get away with it, and have been for a while is they are a business, and they can control who they sell to. If they don't like what a AD is doing, or they suspect he is selling parts secondhand, they as a company have the right to shut off his parts account. It's happened in a lot of other industries, where dealers were selling below the MSRP, which is fine until another dealer down the street rats you out, and then the manufacturer will probably warn you first, but if it continues, they may well refuse to sell to you.

Don't believe for a minute that Rolex doesn't know where a lot of those "take off" parts are going. They aren't stupid by a long shot! Another factor from their standpoint is reliability. Suppose you take your genuine sub to a Rolex repair person, and he decides that you need a crown/tube. Now suppose he replaces your crown/tube with a really used set that came off another watch. You take your watch home and in a few days, weeks, you see moisture under the crystal, or you go to the beach, wear your watch swimming and it floods. You take it back to the repair person, they tell you you must have left the crown unscrewed. He tells you it needs to go to a RSC which repairs your watch to the tune of say 1200.00 USD, now you're mad, and in some cases, rather than taking it out on the guy who installed the old bad crown /tube, you're mad at Rolex for selling you defective parts. This may sound far fetched, but I'm sure they don't want parts reused on Rolex watches, and they darn sure don't want them being used on Reps!! It's all about protecting the brand image, and they,Rolex, could care less whether the independent watchmakers, or customers are not happy with their rules.

I firmly believe that the purists will always spend whatever is necessary to keep their Rolex watches "Pure", however the vast majority of Rolex owners are not WIS or Rolex purists, they are just a guy or gal with some disposable cash, who wants a good watch, and wants the prestige of wearing one of the few brands that are instantly recognizable by just about everyone. Those are the folks who, when their watch requires a service will take it to a watchmaker, generally someone local, for their service. If the watchmaker tells them, I think you need a new bracelet to replaced your old stretched bracelet. A new one from Rolex will cost you around 1K, but I can get you a nice replacement ,use your old clasp and end links for around 200.00 USD, and no one will be able to tell the difference.I believe that a lot of folks will buy the 200.00 dollar bracelet and save the rest.I wouldn't think many if any AD's will offer this option,as it could very likely put their parts account standing in jeopardy, but independents who aren't beholden to Rolex would probably do it in a heart beat.

[automatico]

"The reason they can get away with it, and have been for a while is they are a business, and they can control who they sell to. If they don't like what a AD is doing, or they suspect he is selling parts secondhand, they as a company have the right to shut off his parts account. It's happened in a lot of other industries, where dealers were selling below the MSRP, which is fine until another dealer down the street rats you out, and then the manufacturer will probably warn you first, but if it continues, they may well refuse to sell to you."

Substitute the brand name rolex for brand names Harley Davidson, Maytag, Dell, Master Craft, Yamaha, American Standard, Sony, and thousands of others and this rolex type BS simply would not fly. How many 'consumers' would be dumb enough to go along with it? Not many I bet. There would be class action lawsuits everywhere. It goes on because no one really cares (except watchnuts) if rolex parts are available to the guy down the street or not. This same 'consumer' would raise He-ll to the 99th level though if he had to call the Maytag man at $60/hour plus a $100 house call to do a 10 minute repair with a $100 part just because the $100 part (that really should be $10) is not available anywhere else..

RUSA is in violation (of the intent) of Federal Trade Commission rules but they beat it in court a few years ago by referring to a law on the books for 50+ years that pertains to watch companies not having to sell parts to the trade in order to protect their brand. The FTC let it stand but if it was tested in court again with a lot of $$ behind it, you can bet rUSA would lose the case.

"It's happened in a lot of other industries, where dealers were selling below the MSRP..."

Forcing retailers to sell at MSPR is illegal in the USA. Rolex USA simply uses threats to manipulate their authorized dealers.

When I worked part time in MC shops, the distributors (Japan brands) allowed one 'whoredealer' in the sales area. 'W-dealer' = low overhead shop with big discounts and not much service.

Why? Because it increased overall sales.

The local 'w-dealer' went busted a year ago because of the sorry economy so now bargain hunters have to know someone at the local dealer or travel out of the area for a good deal.

The average Japan MC and ATV only has an average markup of 16% so after a year or so of floor plan interest, they really want rid of it so you can get a bargain if you can find out what has been in stock the longest. Many times they will turn them loose at cost and count on the 'hold back' for profit.

'Hold back' = 3% of the dealer cost of every unit sold. It is paid the following year in one whack.

I remember a few years ago when Harley D threatened a Japanese MC brand (Kawasaki? Yamaha? can not remember) about their 'sound'. HD claimed the Japan brand was making motorcycles with a 'sound' similar to HD and the HD 'sound' was exclusive etc, etc.

The Japan company told them to shut up before they buy them out and flush them down the commode. They shut up.

Rolex USA will sell parts like nickels falling out of a Las Vegas slot machine if the right guys ever get them in court.

Ka-ching!

[freddy333]

A quick search through my archives returned a US Dept of Justice ruling that is apropos here -

On February 28, 2006, the Department settled a civil contempt claim against Rolex Watch U.S.A.

Inc. for violating a 1960 consent decree that prohibited U.S. importers of Swiss watches and watch parts

from engaging in anticompetitive practices in the U.S. watch industry. In a petition alleging Rolex's

violation of the decree, the Department stated that by refusing to sell watch parts to independent watch

repair facilities unless they agreed to use Rolex parts or accessories exclusively, and by prohibiting

watchmakers from reselling spare watch parts under any circumstance or charging an excessive markup for

watch parts used in repairs, Rolex had illegally restricted the use, resale, and pricing of watch parts. In the

course of investigating Rolex, the Department also concluded that the decree was no longer needed to

protect competition, as a result of significant changes in the watch industry over the past 45 years, and

should be terminated, but without exonerating Rolex from previous compliance

The way I read this, since 2006, Rolex has been prohibited from restricting either supply or pricing on Rolex parts in the USA. However, since virtually every authorized Rolex dealer & watchmaker within the Rolex network has told me that they will lose their account if they sell parts or fail to follow Rolex's guidelines for parts exchanges (watch serial numbers must be recorded when changing parts & old parts must be returned to Rolex), I have to say that I am more than a little confused by this? Especially, since Rolex US has tightened the reigns even more within the past year to the point where, for the 1st time, 2 of my long-time sources have refused to do business with me altogether. And, in 1 case, I have been doing business with this guy for more than a dozen years. So either Rolex never got the DOJ's memo or, once again, they have been able to skirt the law by way of some (Rolex-wearing) politicians' favors.

[Cromag]

@freddy

No doubt! That is a bit confusing.