CK2915: Speedmaster One

[lhooq]

http:///www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3MDgHZ8/0/X3/i-3MDgHZ8-X3.jpg
 
After finishing my 6263 Daytona build back in the summer, I hesitated to call it a Grail.  To re-cap, I'm not a big fan of the term and the way it's carelessly applied to any watch of interest.  There will be no such reservations here.  
 
The Omega Speedmaster Professional was my first "real" watch after years of wearing  quartz Swatches, Bulovas, and other $100 fashion watches.  (I also sported a hand-wind Vostok through high school, but that died in my final year and I didn't know enough to get it fixed.)  I underwent months of research before deciding on the vanilla Moon Watch, but during that time I learned a lot about the Speedy's rich history.  That was my first exposure to the original '57 Speedmaster, and I started dreaming of owning one, one day.  Obviously, I didn't have a clue about how much these things actually cost!
 

 
Harsh Mistress
So let's take a step back and take in a brief history of the Speedmaster. We tend to think of the Speedy Pro as timeless, but the design was only frozen -more or less- in the late 1960s. In the decade before the moon landing, the Speedmaster was in a constant state of evolution. Released in 1957, Speedmaster ref. CK2915 was arguably the first modern chronograph by virtue of its innovative, external tachymeter bezel. (Prior to the Speedmaster, tachymetric scales were drawn on the dial itself. Within a few years, rivals like Rolex (Daytona) and Universal Genève (Tri-Compax) would follow suit.) Beating inside the case was Omega's version of the venerable Lemania 2310 movement. Calibre 321 has become a legend in its own right: First movement to the moon, famously hardy, and a prettier movement than its successor (c.861), to boot.

The Speedmaster started out as a flashier watch than it is today, but it wasn’t long before took a backseat to functionality. Omega was dedicated to producing the ideal tool chronograph, and legibility under all conditions was a top priority. The Speedmaster existed in its original form for less than two years. By the end of 1958 and the introduction of the CK2915-3, the engraved steel bezel had been swapped with a black-painted hoop. The distinctive hands (now commonly known as "Broad Arrow" hands, to the chagrin of British military watch buffs) were replaced in subsequent generations by white-painted sticks. Even small details like the applied metal Omega symbol and the polished crystal retention ring were eventually deleted to ensure maximum readability inside a poorly-lit, shaking, and spinning command module.

1966 saw the twisting and thickening of the Speedmaster's lugs. More metal now protected the crown and pushers, while the entire watch was noticeably enlarged. It would be a few more years before 'Professional' was added to the dial and Cal.861 would be introduced, but the '66 145.012 would essentially define the look of the Speedmaster for all time. That's a lot of changes for one watch in nine years, but then again, only seven years separated JFK's Rice speech and Neil Armstrong's one small step.

The CK2915, to me, is like a diamond in the rough. Refinement brought to the Speedmaster a stark utilitarian beauty, like that of a Staedtler drafting ruler or a Smiths automotive instrument. But I believe that there is even greater beauty in the irrational details of the earlier watch. Sure, the wide, polished-metal hands may block the subdials and produce distracting reflections. But someone decided that they belonged on the watch, perhaps for the simple reason that they looked terrific. How appealing is that sort of will compared to the careful design tweaks that led to the Professional?

Interest in the original Speedmaster spiked in 1998 with the release of the Speedmaster ref. 3594.50. Also known as the '57 Reissue, it was basically a standard Moon Watch with a steel bezel, a retro-styled dial, and a new handset. The hands would reappear on the automatic Broad Arrow line of Speedmasters, and then in modified form on the Seamaster Planet Ocean. Either out of respect to the past or due to a bad case of writer’s block, Speedmaster DNA could be found everywhere in the Omega lineup.

More recently, Omega unvelied the First in Space aka the "Wally Schirra". This was more of an homage to the 2nd-gen CK2998, but the biggest attraction was its revival of straight lugs on a smaller case. There are a lot of details about the Schirra that I don’t like, but it did get me imagining a “’57 Reissue Done Right”.
 
 
The UnProfessional
For the past two years, it's been a dream of mine to put together a CK2915-alike using a mix of parts from vintage Speedmasters and the '57 Reissue. (More recently, I imagined using the case from the Schirra, but I don't have that sort of money to throw around.) The trick would be finding a straight-lug case in the wild, and that's why the project remained a dream for so long. Post-'66 cases can be plentiful (especially when Watchco has a sale), but in two years I only saw one straight case show up on eBay. It sold for close to $2000. Similarly, Cal. 321 donors have stayed expensive at $1500-2000, and are desirable watches in their own right. Shopping for Valjoux 72s suddenly seemed very cheap, and it was looking as if I'd be better off saving my funds for a genuine, vintage straight Speedy.

To my surprise, it turned out that someone had had the same idea as I did, and acted on it. All I had to do was buy it. I saw the listing when it first went up in September. My jaw dropped; here was the literal watch of my dreams, in the metal. Unfortunately, the price was much higher than I could afford, especially since I was in between jobs. The sale was set up as a Dutch auction, but I figured that someone would grab it before it fell within my reach. It hurt, but I gritted my teeth and resolved to forget about it. A week and a half later, my friend and fellow Speedy fanatic Five of Clubs PM’d me about the same listing; we’d discussed my project on several occasions. It turned out that not many people appreciate a good franken outside of our little hobby, and the going price had taken a big tumble. I told 5♧ that I still couldn't afford it, but I started tracking the auction again. Well, long story short... I got it. Here’s how it looked when I received it at the end of September:
 

 
This watch has a 105.003 case, which was the last of the straight-lugged Speedies (and aka the "Ed White"). Inside is a Cal.321, visible through sapphire. All the parts in front are from the Reissue, including a steel bezel that had been trimmed to better match the 2915’s dimensions. It came on a braided NATO strap. The previous owner had fitted it on a non-Speedy Omega bracelet, but wasn't too concerned about historical correctness. It was a beautiful watch, but I could already see plenty of room for improvement.

I’d never used The Zigmeister’s services before, but I’d heard many glowing recommendations from people I trusted. There’s also that amazing reputation he enjoys on the boards, and I can confirm that he fully deserves it. Zig is meticulous and really knows his stuff. It sucked that I had to send my Speedmaster away less than a week after I received it, but it’s always best to take the pain early. Here’s the end result:
 


 
So what was done?
 
 
Dial and Hands
As mentioned, the dial and handset come straight from the Reissue.  Omega did a terrific job on this dial (in contrast to the somewhat slap-dash appearance of the Schirra), but the white/green SuperLuminova bothered me.  Zig is famous for being able to match the color and texture of vintage lume, and I was eager to see what he could do.  I sent several color-laser printouts along with the watch so that he'd know exactly what shade of peach/yellow I wanted.  I had also wanted to give the dial surface a bit more texture, but Zig thought it might be risky.  I could have forced the issue and taken on the full risk of a possibly-ruined, genuine dial, but I'm a bit low on funds at the moment!  I figured the lume would be enough to sell a vintage look.


 
I also asked Zig to paint the subdial hands white.  Most people don't spot this detail; maybe the '98 Reissue convinced everyone that they should be polished metal?  I know I didn't even realize it until two weeks after I'd sent the watch away (and viewing many, many photos of genuine examples)!  Now I think it plays a crucial part in forcing even experienced Omega spotters to blink twice and think about what they're looking at.
 

 
 
Caseback
Here's the single biggest tell on the watch, but for once I don't care.  Replacement Pre-Moon solid casebacks are readily available, but fitting one would mean not being able to see the sweet-looking Cal.321 inside.  Is it the column wheel, the horseshoe-shaped chronograph bridge, or the coppery hue of the movement?  Whatever.  It's beautiful.
   

 
Speedmasters sold with display backs are supposed to have a spacer to hold the movement in place.  Curiously, Zig discovered that a piece of a crystal compression ring had been used for this purpose.  Zig tossed it and manufactured a new brass spacer ring.
 
 
Crown
As received, the Speedmaster came with a 6.5mm crown--the same as on a modern Moon Watch.  Modern crowns are also found on many genuine CK2915s that have been serviced by Omega.  (This is a familiar, frustrating story for vintage Rolex guys.)  I couldn't find a 2915-correct 6mm crown, so I went with the chunkier 7mm unit from the early-60s.  The important thing is that it has the pinched Omega symbol, same as on the dial.
 

 
 
Bracelet and Endlinks
I love the look of old Omega bracelets.  A brief search yielded a folded/expanding-link 1035 in decent condition.  The 19mm 1035 is not quite right for the CK2915, but the more-correct 7912 and the ideal 7077 sell for roughly twice and thrice the price, respectively.  The only difference between the three is the clasp; from the front, these bracelets look identical.  Years of wear had left the links with a dull shine. I asked Zig to refinish the links to their original polished/brushed/polished configuration.  
 

 
Unfortunately, I couldn't find the correct '6' or '506' endlinks.  (If anyone spots a pair, contact me immediately!)  Instead, we used the modern '617' endlink, reshaped and refinished by Zigmeister.  The only hitch was that Zig was unable to enlarge the opening at the bottom of each endlink.  As you can see from the drawing near the top of this post, the deep notch was a distinctive feature on these early Speedies.  To be continued...
 

 
 
Straps
Much as I love rattly old bracelets, it's always good to have options.  Many genuine CK2915s can be found on leather, and even the Reissue was available with a brown calfskin option.  This Hirsch Camelgrain was a good match, and suitably thin for a watch from the 1950s strap.  I'm not certain if the buckle is correct for a Speedy, but it does date to the 1950s.  There are a lot of fake Omega buckles out there, so be careful.
 

 
 
And then there's the donerix (Hamilton Leather) canvas strap that I wrote about elsewhere.  Why was this strap such a big deal?  There's a picture floating around the Internet of a stunning CK2915 on a similar strap.  I first saw it back in 2009, and it's been my image of a Grail Watch ever since.  It seemed like a perfect addition to this project, and I'm fortunate to have a friend who could put a strap together based on that one photo.  Thanks, E!
 

 
And so we end with the photos I couldn't squeeze in anywhere else.  Seasoned LHOOQ observers will undoubtedly notice that these are all taken with natural light, for a change.
 

 

This is a very special watch to me.  I hope you enjoyed reading about it.

 

[sgtguk]

Absolutely stunning    Beautiful piece and awesome photography skills, Congratulations enjoy it      

[chiman12]

She is a looker M!   

 

Now get back to studying!

[ubiquitous]

Stunning build and a very faithful rendition of the 2915. You've put a lot of thought and effort into this one M, and your efforts are clearly apparent. Excellent execution and combination of parts! Very well done!

[Jimster]

Well done Sir!  M, you always have the attention to detail.  This is watch I've always wanted and the closest I've got is my 145. 

 

Thanks for detailing the meticulous execution. Wear is proudly!!

[jtiis]

As an O fan myself I just love this. Nice companion piece also... that's a 1450 isn't it? (just gone mine last week)... so much more comfy than the 1498s and such...

 

Enjoy both my friend.... and, nice write up.

[Jimster]

M, the correct crown is here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Speedmaster-Mens-Steel-Wristwatch-Crown-43018-suits-145012-105003-2915-98-/350546715183?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item519e36622f

 

I tried to PM you but you're not taking any.

[lhooq]

Thanks, all!

 

C: Definitely back to the books!  Exams are in less than two weeks. 

 

Ubi: I'm glad you were able to drop into RWG and see this piece.  Maybe one day I'll branch out to Pateks, but for now this is my "ne plus ultra" build. 

 

jtiis: Yes, it's a 1450 that I spent quite a bit of time (and cash) to acquire!  Definitely a Grail bracelet.  (Great, now who's tossing that term around carelessly?

 

Jimster: That's a modern 6.5mm crown (with newer, fatter Greek letter Omega), same as on a contemporary 3570.50.  It will work on any of the Speedmasters, but it's period-correct only for 1966 and later.  I shall clean up my inbox immediately!

[Jimster]

Good to know.  They listed approx. 6mm and 43018.  I thought the larger crown was 8100.  Just took out my 105 and it has a 6mm with a thinner Omega.

 

Too good to be true.

[Five of Clubs]

Excellent writeup as usual!  Thanks for letting me be part of the process.  You really ended up with a special piece.

[janeto72]

Thanks, all!

 

C: Definitely back to the books!  Exams are in less than two weeks. 

 

Ubi: I'm glad you were able to drop into RWG and see this piece.  Maybe one day I'll branch out to Pateks, but for now this is my "ne plus ultra" build. 

 

jtiis: Yes, it's a 1450 that I spent quite a bit of time (and cash) to acquire!  Definitely a Grail bracelet.  (Great, now who's tossing that term around carelessly?

 

Jimster: That's a modern 6.5mm crown (with newer, fatter Greek letter Omega), same as on a contemporary 3570.50.  It will work on any of the Speedmasters, but it's period-correct only for 1966 and later.  I shall clean up my inbox immediately!

Very Nice M!!!!! However,I do believe you need to focus on your studies.I can hold the watch for you until your done.It might be too much of a distraction ....lol! Good luck my friend on your exams!

[cougar1]

Brilliant stuff M, fantastic watch and great work, the price on these I sincerely doubt I'll ever get hold of one. It's great to see the attention to detail that went into this, it certainly looks very close to a well kept gen. Congrats on putting together this grail piece.

[vandal.tbh]

Gorgeous watch.  I am green with envy, but so very impressed with all the work you went through for it.  Congrats!

[watchfreund]

Really beautiful watch! Awesome result. Would love to own one one day too!

[ryaku]

Fantastic watch!!

[lhooq]

Great timing for a bump!  Today I was finally able to get the 617 endlinks modded to look more like a pair of vintage 506s.  The center notches makes the watch much more convincing, overall.
 
That said, I would still love to find genuine 6 or 506 endlinks.  Send me a PM if you have any tips!
 

[PAMman]

Very, very nice. This is a stunning watch. I picked up a genuine 1962, 2998-6 last year, that was complete and original, except the replacement crown and a missing pusher button. I swapped the crown for an old style one and salvaged a pusher button from a Tissot chrono that shared the same size pushers. A service and a new crystal completed the project. Mine has the Dauphine hands, straight, white centre chrono secs hand and the later (current) type of sub-dial hands. I just need to get a suitable bracelet to finish it off.

[lhooq]

Very, very nice. This is a stunning watch. I picked up a genuine 1962, 2998-6 last year, that was complete and original, except the replacement crown and a missing pusher button. I swapped the crown for an old style one and salvaged a pusher button from a Tissot chrono that shared the same size pushers. A service and a new crystal completed the project. Mine has the Dauphine hands, straight, white centre chrono secs hand and the later (current) type of sub-dial hands. I just need to get a suitable bracelet to finish it off.

 

I'd love to see pictures of your 2998, if you have any at the ready.  Here's a friend's with my "'57":

 

[redwatch]

Wow! See that? I step away for a little bit and this gorgeous masterpiece arrives!! Simply stunning M!!! Well done and congrats! Definitely one of my all time favorites. The broad arrow hands really make this watch pop!

[StormTooper4]

That is a cracker

[PAMman]

I'd love to see pictures of your 2998, if you have any at the ready.  Here's a friend's with my "'57":

 

OK, I'll take a few pics shortly.

[mrboombasteke]

Wow. Been AWOL for a bit, but HAD to comment on this piece. Exquisite!!!

[lhooq]

Time for another update.  Last week, I sent the Speedmaster back to Zigmeister for a full service.  It returned to me yesterday, and keeping very good time.  Additionally, I asked Zig for a bit of bracelet work.

First, I asked him to round the middle edge of each modded endlink.  If you look at photos from before, you'll see that my old watchsmith had left hard, perpendicular edges.  Fortunately, someone had recently auctioned off a a pair of '6' endlinks (winning bid: $1325!) and had taken very good photos for the listing.  These formed the bulk of the reference material I sent to Zig.  After rounding the edges, he refinished the endlinks again:



Speaking of ridiculously high parts prices, a ref. 7077 bracelet (correct for the CK2915) recently sold for $3350.  As mentioned in the OP, my bracelet is a later 1039.  It's in decent condition, but it bothered me how the new-style Omega logo on the clasp didn't match the pinched Omegas found elsewhere on the watch.  It bothered me, but not to the tune of $3350.  What to do?

Several months ago, I won an auction for a clasp from a 7912 bracelet.  It's longer than the 7077's clasp, but it looks very similar.  Unfortunately, the 7912 clasp wasn't a perfect fit with the 1039 hardware, but it was good enough.  I asked Zig to refinish the clasp to match the franken-bracelet:



And that's where Speedmaster One is today.  I'm glad to have it back!

[cougar1]

Stunning M, would never get tired of looking at it. The price of 7077 bracelets, holy moly, then again the price of these early speedies is going through the roof anyway.

[lhooq]

Some of you (well, mostly 5♧!) have asked for new photos of this piece, sometimes known as "The Swedemaster" due to its origins.  Similarly, I've long wanted to take new shots, but hesitated ever since I lost my old lighting setup.  I still haven't replicated that, but that will be a side project for this summer. 

Here, then is my CK2915 as of today:


The lume by Zig is still spectacular.  Shame about his retirement!


This big crown has doubled in price since last year:


New Omegas (like the Cal.9300 Speedmasters and this year's Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial have bracelets that pay homage to the old polished/brushed/polished finish--by reversing it!


The clasp is holding together well...


...While the Cal.321 movement remains a joy to look at:


I still love this Speedmaster: