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Rolex 1016 built.... Mod a JMB case to gen specs. Lots of pics !


rolojack

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In the USA, there's JB Weld- it's a gray epoxy, it comes with various set times.

 

Thanks for the WSO 580 info RJ! Now if I could just find that pair of 580 ends that I've had for 3-4 years.

 

Another crystal that might work for a DJ type case is the T-29- it equates to the 135 crystal used on the 16000 DJs.

True, and also you can mod a SK DJ cyclop by removing the lens. Don't take the Clark as the inner dome is alteed bu the lens.... The SK inner dome is neat.

 

Regarding the endlinks, WSO is a good base to work. They can fit almost all cases after modding. You have to erase the silly ugly 580, but the metal is so thick you can shape it to perfection.

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We had the same issue with the crystal on my build with the JMB case.  The gen T-22 was loose and would not work, but a gen 25-21 fit perfectly.    

 

That's odd.  The inner diameters of the T21 and T22 should be identical.  It's just that the T22 is thicker by about 0.5mm.

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M, you've got it exactly right, and I think jmb's still got them listed under the Tools & Parts subforum. The key distinction is the DJ case itself, which is more accurately dimensioned than any of the cartel 1016s. In the 6+ years I've been looking at 1016 reps, they've never been upgraded!

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M is correct, the T22 and T21 have the same ID.  The T21 is smaller on the OD and also a more domed shape.  The cases I use accept a T22 perfectly, no modding involved...

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So, I have a caseset with the clarks T22 in it. I like the look of the domed crystals. I also have an SK T21 in my box of spare parts. Is it feasible to send that along with all the other bits and my modder to fit a T21 to the JMB case with a little jiggery pokery? Does that sound like a plan? Will the net result be like rolojack's pictures?

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So, I have a caseset with the clarks T22 in it. I like the look of the domed crystals. I also have an SK T21 in my box of spare parts. Is it feasible to send that along with all the other bits and my modder to fit a T21 to the JMB case with a little jiggery pokery? Does that sound like a plan? Will the net result be like rolojack's pictures?

If you go to the smaller OD T-21, you'll need a new bezel since the bezel for the T-22 will be too big.

If you could find a T-22 with the dome, you should be ok. SK or GS would likely have something.

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We had the same issue with the crystal on my build with the JMB case.  The gen T-22 was loose and would not work, but a gen 25-21 fit perfectly.    

Sorry guys I was incorrect.  As other more knowledgeable members have posted, it was not an issue with crystal fit but with the bezel fit.  I should have made sure my facts were correct before posting.  I apologize for that, I misunderstood Matt.  I have now clarified. Both the gen T-21 and T-22 crystals fit the case properly, but the jmb bezel is specked for the T-22 so when we decided to use the T-21 superdome the jmb bezel diameter is too large on that crystal but a gen bezel fits perfectly.  The jmb bezel fit the T-22 nicely, we just like the look better with the T-21 and the gen bezel.  Sorry if I confused anyone, still learning...     

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I believe so, mine was made to fit the T-22 but sounds like JMB can make you one for the T-21.  My 1016 is out for delivery, so it will be there when I get home....bet I leave work early today.  Hard to believe how childish I can be when it comes to a new watch.  

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All fantastic stuff in this thread and very helpful for my build. Now, as to the case re-shaping does anybody out there have any comparison shots of a case before 'slimming down' and after. I'm keen to replicate this but don't really know where the case needs to go on a diet. Cheers for any help and advice.

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All fantastic stuff in this thread and very helpful for my build. Now, as to the case re-shaping does anybody out there have any comparison shots of a case before 'slimming down' and after. I'm keen to replicate this but don't really know where the case needs to go on a diet. Cheers for any help and advice.

Everywhere ! Top of the lugs, both sides (more than you think !) and of course most of the work is on the bottom. Be super careful, as the space left between the tube hole and the bottom will be very slim ! Also, you will have JUST enough tread left to screw in tight the caseback. This means if you try to go too fast you'll ruin it. Make sure to secure your case in such a way the bottom will end up perfectly flat too. Otherwise, the back case will not meet the mid case everywhere and your watch won't even be dustproof....

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