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Quality differences between replicas


someone1234

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Hi everyone,
 
my first "real" post in this forum. Awesome amount of knowledge gathered here!
 
I have been thinking about finally getting an Omega SMP replica. Initially I simply wanted a diver watch and I loved the SMP's design & found it way too expensive, then I found out that there actually is a whole replica subculture hidden in the internets!
 
Now I have been trying to make sense of how the replica business works. I have been looking at Trusted Dealer websites and the QC pics and videos really give a lot of confidence in the quality of the replicas.
 
(Reading about (the lack of) water resistance in replicas was kind of disillusioning, but I guess I can try to have a replica checked locally after receiving it.)
 
So most Omega SMP replicas seem to be priced at either $128 or $328, and sometimes in between.
 
Apart from wondering about why the sites all seem to have the same prices - is there something magical about exactly $328? - I haven't yet found out what the quality difference between different replicas (from the same dealer) is.
 
Will I see any real difference? Is the feel or the weight of the watch or the band different?
 
E.g. between these two:
 
trusty-watch    /index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_66&products_id=10948
 
trusty-watch    /index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_83&products_id=169
 
(Sorry for the URL shortening, I'm not yet allowed to post URLs....)
 
I wouldn't be asking this question if the price difference was smaller - but from $128 to $328 is quite a jump. In this case, the 'cheap' rep even has the automatic movement (often they're quartz) so that alone cannot explain the huge markup, right?
 
Greetings
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Differences also in mineral vs sapphire crystal, presence or antireflective coating or not, old versions or newer (more gen like) versions etc.

And of course movement, from the ultacrappy "new breed Asian 28.800 BPH, passing to the low cost 2813 21.600 BPH, to the good Asian eta 2824&2836, to the good Miyota 91xx series to the final excellent Sellita.

And this only counting the plain auto non chrono. Then there are the manual winding (plain or chrono), the cheap quartz, the at least 3 different auto chronos...

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There are several different types of automatic movements. Some Asian clones some swiss etc etc. Usually the Asian eta clone is your best bet for value

Alright, I understand this. But what if I'd even be fine with a Quartz movement? As long as the look & feel and general builing quality is near-gen?

(Do you even get the top reps with Quartz?)

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There are often 3 or 4 versions released movement wise for the standard rolex and omega models. Asian 21j is the cheapest and Clone type movements being at the higher end. They will be basically the same watch just better engines. The Quartz versions are generally cheaper and lesser quality. The replicas here try to get Most aspects as near as they can. My last watch was a Quartz but there was no auto version and I only wanted to spend 100$. Normally I'd go mid range eta clone though the new omega clone type Movements look great.

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I'd suggest a new SMP ceramic - as in the 'new' Seamaster rather than the 'old' Seamaster with the aluminium insert. I have a Bond 50th and it's great. My friend has the cheaper version (no small marker by the date at three) and it's very nearly as good. Both great reps for the money and they come up fairly frequently in the M2M sections on the various rep forums.

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There will be subtle or more obvious differences You cannot make out on the small pictures on TD´s sites. Always better to look for (many) member pictures of exactly the model/type/maker You want to buy. The LMPO from toro seems to be a great rep.

There are 2 quite nice quartz ones as well, the Dark side of the moon (there is one cheaper and one good model, I think no ticking seconds at all) and a regatta one (Dubai?). For reliability nothing beats quartz but once You´ve seen the smooth sweeping of an Asian ETA You simply can´t go back except when there are small or no ticking seconds and it´s a microstepper.

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The LMPO from toro seems to be a great rep.

There are 2 quite nice quartz ones as well, the Dark side of the moon (there is one cheaper and one good model, I think no ticking seconds at all) and a regatta one (Dubai?). For reliability nothing beats quartz but once You´ve seen the smooth sweeping of an Asian ETA You simply can´t go back except when there are small or no ticking seconds and it´s a microstepper.

 

Thank you all for your opinions!  Not looking for a Planet Ocean, by the way - I like the classic look of the SMP.

 

This is catching my attention though. Is "no ticking seconds" a property to look for? Do genuine models tick at all? Do automatic watches tick? Sorry if this question sounds dumb ;)

What do you mean by "Dark Side of the Moon"? Googling for this I can only find a Speedmaster model by that name?

 

I'd suggest a new SMP ceramic - as in the 'new' Seamaster rather than the 'old' Seamaster with the aluminium insert. I have a Bond 50th and it's great. My friend has the cheaper version (no small marker by the date at three) and it's very nearly as good.

Yeah, that looks good. I think you mean this one:

http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37_128_129&product_id=851

 

There are often 3 or 4 versions released movement wise for the standard rolex and omega models. Asian 21j is the cheapest and Clone type movements being at the higher end. They will be basically the same watch just better engines. The Quartz versions are generally cheaper and lesser quality.

That's what I was suspecting! Thanks!

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Good Grief.  Dont get one of those every man and his dog has one of those. Be mildly original , get a  42 Ceramic Planet Ocean at least . I went to wedding once and 4 of my mates turned up and they all had one of these , some quartz and some auto all thought they were right smart until they saw each others watches. 

This was Bond

omega-james-bond-watch-ad-tomorrow-never

 

He was not very good , despite Halle Berry 

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Imho the words 'quality' and 'replica' do not belong in the same sentence.   :)

 

With that out of the way...there are usually 'quality' differences between different examples of the same model of replica watch, even from the same vendor.

Why?

Because 'quality' in replica watches is hit or miss. No way around it.

Exception = carefully hand assembled replica watches put together by someone who knows what they are doing...they are usually much better in quality but cost much more.

Examples = TC, BK etc.

 

So, what to buy?

A few years ago when fresh genuine Etas were available, replicas with these movements were fairly reliable except for the normal replica ailments...ratty case tube/crown threads, markers falling off dials, crystals fogging up etc. Now the two main choices are 'Asian etaclones' of dubious quality or Asian 'Miyota clones' of dubious quality with the same normal ailments just mentioned (imho on the dubious movement quality).

 

Today's 'Guaranteed Swiss Etas' in replicas are usually old, dirty, or worn out movements removed from various brands.

New Eta 2824/36 that used to retail for $59 are now $225 and a 2892 A2 that was $120 is around $350.

 

If I was stepping off into the 'Replicaland Swamp' today, I would probably go with a watch with a sapphire crystal, screw down case back, metal bracelet, and Asian etaclone 2824/36/92 or 6498. No chronographs.

 

It's true that everyone has a replica submariner or SMP but it does make parts easier to find.

...and sooner or later you will need parts.   :pimp:

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You're right Auto, but also consider that a new a7750 for replacement is around 110$ and the standard replacement parts like the stem or the barrel or the double corrector gear are replaceable with gen eta parts.

Most scary for me are those parts only available from the factories, like crystals or crowns or hands...

Edited by GenTLe
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"Most scary for me are those parts only available from the factories, like crystals, or crowns or hands..."

 

Right, and the rumor is that after December 31 2015 the swatch group (omega etc) ls cutting off most of the parts to supply houses just like rolex did.

 

January 2016...

SMP Sucker:  "I need a new crown for my three year old SMP."   :prop:

Factory authorized rip off shop:  "We have them sir, only $815.00...including the mandatory full overhaul of course."   :ph34r:

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"Most scary for me are those parts only available from the factories, like crystals, or crowns or hands..."

 

Right, and the rumor is that after December 31 2015 the swatch group (omega etc) ls cutting off most of the parts to supply houses just like rolex did.

 

 

Makes sense, that's what I would do as the gen maker. :)

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Good Grief.  Dont get one of those every man and his dog has one of those. Be mildly original , get a  42 Ceramic Planet Ocean at least . I went to wedding once and 4 of my mates turned up and they all had one of these , some quartz and some auto all thought they were right smart until they saw each others watches. 

 

Really?! That strange, when I browse rep dealer sites or even generic watch forums for pictures, all I can see mentioned is Planet Ocean, Planet Ocean and Planet Ocean. Seems to me like that's the mainstream when it comes to Omega watches!

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Imho the words 'quality' and 'replica' do not belong in the same sentence.   :)

 

With that out of the way...there are usually 'quality' differences between different examples of the same model of replica watch, even from the same vendor.

Why?

Because 'quality' in replica watches is hit or miss. No way around it.

 

Thanks for your input!

I will probably go for a cheaper Quartz rep from a TD first and see how it feels. The price difference to the expensive $300+ reps is so large that I can take the risk of not liking the cheaper rep and buying the same one in a better version afterwards.

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Quality is different than "look & feel" of a replica.    Let's face it........   If you get a decent Asian Movement in watch that is considered a 1:1 rep, you'll likely be spending $300 - $400 (barring some of the new higher priced AP reps).

 

Sink another $150-$200 into it for a good movement servicing and you're at as much as $600.    HOWEVER, now you have an extremely good looking piece that is pretty reliable, still for only 10% (or less) of the cost for a genuine piece.  

 

These are not $25 "Times Square" knockoffs.   The TD's to their best to locate and sell the best that the rep world has to offer.   They sure are not perfect at it, but for the total investment, they are pretty darn good.

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In answer to S1234...

 

I agree. I would do the same thing if I was selling high priced snobwatches because mainstream Gomers who buy them do not know enough (or care) to ask about the service/parts cost after the warranty has expired. In reality, it is against FTC rules to refuse to sell watch parts in the USA to supply houses for general distribution but it all goes ignored and RWC beat a class action suit in court a couple years ago with their policy of allowing 'selected independent repair shops to have an official parts account'. They left out the part about making it so hard to qualify that very, very few could get an account and also failed to mention they have closed out most of the accounts already established.

Omega will probably go the same route.

 

Very few brands sell parts today...try to buy oem parts for a Fossil or Breitling and see how far you get.

One exception is TAG crowns, case tubes, and crystals have become available from many supply houses in the past few years.

 

I have always wondered how a Goofball with a 60 IQ can buy brake parts for any motorcycle or automobile by just walking up to the parts counter with enough $$...then go home and improperly install the parts and later run over a kid at a cross walk because he did not install the brake parts properly.

While the same idiot can not buy a genuine crown for his genuine rolex watch because "Improper installation might damage the integrity of the fine swiss rolex timepiece."

...making him late to pick up his hoe girlfriend after she gets done with her stroll.   :pimp:

 

.

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Thanks for your input!

I will probably go for a cheaper Quartz rep from a TD first and see how it feels. The price difference to the expensive $300+ reps is so large that I can take the risk of not liking the cheaper rep and buying the same one in a better version afterwards.

Go for an eta clone based Noob factory watch and I'll assure you will not regret :)

I've some of them and they are damn good :)

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Alright, I understand this. But what if I'd even be fine with a Quartz movement? As long as the look & feel and general builing quality is near-gen?

(Do you even get the top reps with Quartz?)

welcome aboard! Stay away from Quartz go auto only and I highly recommend the BP factory ceramic omega SMP in black. Toro or andrew at trusty can get these for around $300. You will not be disappointed. Don't waste your money on $128 reps unless it's a special deal from toro.
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Just get the ceramic seamaster in blue. They should be around $330 bucks before shipping.

It looks pretty damn close to gen.

You can try out cheaper models if you want but it's a waste of money. You'll end up buying the best version available eventually.

Only quartz omega id wear is a gen SMP and even then I'd prob pass for a mechanical rep.

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