jigelow Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Thanks, mate. Let me know what I owe you. I think the disc just needs sanding. I assume its the same technique as a bezel insert when shaving a bit off the diameter? Kind of wheel it along against fine grit sandpaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misiekped Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Yes but go with small steps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Got it. I'll wait to do that until I get the rest of my parts in. No sense in doing it now when I won't be fully assembling for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 I'm becoming intamately familiar with this piece. I've also learned that I have to work on my patience. I'm used to working around the house and muscling things together. Need to work on my finesse. Here it is with a quick test fit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bc1221 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 That is a cool lookin dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Thanks. I'm happy with the direction its gone, but I'm ready for it to be done and start wearing it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Grease the orings and put it in water brother. She looks lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Grease the orings and put it in water brother. She looks lovely Thanks. Yeah, there's some bits I'll have to take care of like that. It'll come all apart once I figure out the date disc. I still can't get it to change over consistently. It seems like the finger that sits between the teeth doesn't want to spring back in to place to push it all the way to the new date. Keeps getting stuck between the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Thanks. Yeah, there's some bits I'll have to take care of like that. It'll come all apart once I figure out the date disc. I still can't get it to change over consistently. It seems like the finger that sits between the teeth doesn't want to spring back in to place to push it all the way to the new date. Keeps getting stuck between the two. I suggest changing the date jumper then. I did it for my y3135 with gen date disc and it solved the issue. At least for me. Link to date jumper E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Yeah. It had the date spring replaced by misiekped for the previous owner. I guess the jumper needs to go, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 So I've got everything together to test how it is on the wrist. The second hand seems to slip when I move my hand quickly. I'm thinking its just not tight on the pin. Would this make sense? Its a gen from a 16800. Is the pin thicker on the 3035 than on the 3135 or could the second hand just have loosened up with age? Any way to salvage the second hand or do I need a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Second hand seemed to be the culprit. I've got a Clark's second hand on there now and have no issues. I bought a new date jumper, but it doesn't fit. It seems to be taller (there is clearly a shim or washer under the actual head that makes it this way. The date disc did transition smoother with it on; however, I can't get the dial on with this. I put back on the original after bending it a bit and lubing it up and it works, its just not snappy. I'll have to sort that out. I then discovered that the date finger...well, had no finger. Not sure how it was even pushing the disc. It seems it may have broken off as there were now two holes (one to sit on the wheel and presumably one where the finger used to be). I replaced it with a gen and it seems to Ben running well. Final mods will be aging the hands to match the dial and then tearing it down to send to jmb for lug holes. I'm pretty disappointed in the EL fitment. I've tried two sets of gen end links and their still a bit gappy. I guess I'll just have to live with it until I find a different case down the line. Here she is as it is now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Looks damn Good brother! The date jumper has a little jewel. I'd hate for you to take the whole thing apart just to look for it, but there is a little jewel that engages the disc and "snaps" it to the next date. Second hand seemed to be the culprit. I've got a Clark's second hand on there now and have no issues. I bought a new date jumper, but it doesn't fit. It seems to be taller (there is clearly a shim or washer under the actual head that makes it this way. The date disc did transition smoother with it on; however, I can't get the dial on with this. I put back on the original after bending it a bit and lubing it up and it works, its just not snappy. I'll have to sort that out. I then discovered that the date finger...well, had no finger. Not sure how it was even pushing the disc. It seems it may have broken off as there were now two holes (one to sit on the wheel and presumably one where the finger used to be). I replaced it with a gen and it seems to Ben running well. Final mods will be aging the hands to match the dial and then tearing it down to send to jmb for lug holes. I'm pretty disappointed in the EL fitment. I've tried two sets of gen end links and their still a bit gappy. I guess I'll just have to live with it until I find a different case down the line. Here she is as it is now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tagfan1 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Beautiful work it looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Thanks, guys! I'm familiar with that jewel. Unfortunately, my Yuki seems to be missing it. The date wheel and finger work without it, but I'm certain it's not good long term. I used a medium Bergeon oiler to put a dab of 9501 on it for the time being. I'll have to ask misiekped if he has access to these so I can buy a replacement. I may have to buy the whole piece, as the peg that the jewel would sit on doesn't seem very large which may be the reason it went missing to begin with. As far as the actual jumper, it appears I was sent the wrong one. The eBay seller fortunately has provided great customer service and is sending me a new one. I suspect this one is for a similar movement (3155, perhaps). Edited January 6, 2015 by jigelow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ive got a replacement jewel coming. I'm also replacing the actual date wheel while I'm in there. Looking at the Yuki date finger I replaced, I can't really figure out how it worked. Now that I replaced the finger, it changes over, but not rapid. I'd imagine the date wheel itself doesn't have the grove to jump as the date spring pushes against the lever. I'm not entirely happy with the crystal height. I used a Clark 2.7 gasket at first and have gone to a 2.85, but it still seems to sit low. Both were a pain and needed a bit of sanding to get the TC retainer to fit over them. What gaskets are everyone using for TCs with gen crystals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Well, I think I finally sorted the date change issue. I've pretty much rebuilt the entire date works to gen. Unfortunately, the gen date finger does not sit on the Yuki date wheel because there Yuki nipple is too big. So I bought a gen date wheel. Again, it didn't fit. The cylinder that goes through the date wheel and finger was too big on the Yuki. So gradually expanded the hole in the date wheel with a size 80 drill bit. It now sits on the Yuki pin fine and snaps over cleanly at midnight, which it never has before. I have a new non-LEC crystal to get a better, more period correct look. I just need to send the midcase to be drilled and I'll be set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Just finished reading the whole thread. Very usefull information since I am building an early 16610 myself. I have an Early Sean case with gen case back and fully engraved with drilled lugholes incoming (thanks E), gen dial, TC hand set, gen insert, crown, tube an a WM9 bezel/retainer. Was planning to use an ETA 2892 movement and a gen date wheel as overlay. But reading this I might go with a Y3135. But then again seing all the mods that have to be made and the risk the y3135 will not work properly I am still on the fence. What are the experiences on the y3135, reliable or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
netniet Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Was planning to use an ETA 2892 movement and a gen date wheel as overlay. But reading this I might go with a Y3135. But then again seing all the mods that have to be made and the risk the y3135 will not work properly I am still on the fence. What are the experiences on the y3135, reliable or not? My experience with the Yuki 3135 are good when its properly serviced. As for mods on this movement you can go as far as you want, the list of gen parts added by others I have seen so far on this movement are. 1.) Rolex winding pinion (3135-204) 2.) Rolex sliding pinion (3135-205) 3.) Rolex winding stem (3135-201) 4.) Rolex main spring (3135-311) 5.) Rolex Yoke for sliding pinion (3135-240) 6.) Rolex setting wheels 2 pcs (3135-250) 7.) Rolex date jumper part (3115-614) 8.) Rolex mechanism cover (3135-268) 9.) Rolex minute wheel (3135-260) 10.) Rolex cannon pinion (3135-270) 11.) Rolex hour wheel (3135-280) 12.) Rolex date disc (3135-16200) 13.) Rolex Automatic device module (3135-145) 14.) Rolex winding bridge (3135-130) Adding all these parts on a single movement would be mad, and you better then save your money to buy a gen 3135 movement. Replacing some of the parts could improve the quality of the movement. Misiekped is the guy to go to for servicing (and upgrading with gen parts) for the Yuki 3135 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast_freddy Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 it´s no problem,to fit a tc case with cal 3035 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Just finished reading the whole thread. Very usefull information since I am building an early 16610 myself. I have an Early Sean case with gen case back and fully engraved with drilled lugholes incoming (thanks E), gen dial, TC hand set, gen insert, crown, tube an a WM9 bezel/retainer. Was planning to use an ETA 2892 movement and a gen date wheel as overlay. But reading this I might go with a Y3135. But then again seing all the mods that have to be made and the risk the y3135 will not work properly I am still on the fence. What are the experiences on the y3135, reliable or not? Buying a Yuki and sending to misiekped like was mentioned will provide a great reliable movement. Most of the challenges that arose for me are based on my lack of knowledge (originally) of the Yuki and buying a used movement. It keeps great time, but the date function just didn't work. I felt it was a challenge to figure it out on my own with guidance from the board. The drive from the beginning for me was to see if I could do it on my own. That's where equal parts satisfaction and frustration came in. Misiekped will be able to provide a fully functional, serviced, and reliable movement for far less headaches and money than I have gone through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misiekped Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 And he got all parts available Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 And he got all parts available Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I've heard that about him. He's also a great guy and saved my ass during this build with a part and lots of guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marrickvilleboy Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I thought fitting a 2892 movement into the TC would be problematic - i.e., the 2892 is too thin? Anyone confirm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I thought fitting a 2892 movement into the TC would be problematic - i.e., the 2892 is too thin? Anyone confirm? Yes, true. But you need this thinneness if you want to put a gen date disk on the allready exsisting date wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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