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Rolex Subamriner Modded...


yellomen

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Hi guys,

I have several replicas which are so incredibly good that the brand dealer of that specific brand (Omega, Panerai) does not know if it's a replica.

The Submariners i've seen here do not reach that degree of perfection IMHO. Most of the times the etched crown is way too big, the crownguards are not correct, datefont & magnification wrong, rehaut not deep enough, dial printing... etc.

Are there examples of modded Submariners that come to the degree of perfection where a real WIS wouldn't know the difference without opening the caseback?

I'd love to know if that's been done/possible. :rolleyes:

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Here are a few pics and details on a Modern 16610 Submariner project I put together...

169434-10166.jpg

Rehaut- Nice and deep.

169434-10167.jpg

Datemag- True 2.5x and the crystal etch at 6:00 is not visible without a loupe.

169434-10168.jpg

Profile (16610 on the top)- note the crystal height, and also the position/height of the crown in relation to the bezel (most sit too low towards the caseback).

169434-10169.jpg

SELs- Edges of the mid link should be crisper, but overall, the shape and size of the SEL is quite close.

169434-10170.jpg

SEL is also 3 pieces fused together.

169434-10171.jpg

The crown and tube are genuine, as is the insert.

169434-10172.jpg

169434-10173.jpg

169434-10174.jpg

Case is of unknown origin (I got it in a trade- I suspect it may be MBW or TW Best, but there are some details and characteristics that make me doubt either). The dial and bracelet are from a TWG 21j Sub.

169434-10175.jpg

169434-10176.jpg

Sorry for the bad pictures....

:)

R

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That Randy's great 16610 was excepted. :)

But generally Rolex reps are rather poor in comparison. You can't have out-of-the-box Sub, GMT, Daytona, SeaDweller or ExpII which wouldn't be identified as a rep. The only really good Rolex rep is the Explorer I... others are easily spottable for a Rolex WIS.

This is indeed strange... and it would be interesting to know why the factories always fuck up with them. That's probably also why the popularity of Rolex has declined in our community. Much more complicated watches have been repped a lot better.

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I strongly believe its part of the game :( How should we otherwise believe that some reps are so incredibly close and yet even most of the new ones have a flaw which would clearly be peanuts correcting in relation to the other highly complicated features that are they got correct !

Example: the new Po ultimate. Everything is so precise: the engraving, the hand lenghts, the dial font, the case, the hev....so it should seems to be a joke that they were too stupid to exactly copy the omega logo.

The answer is: they dont want to, its part of the game. Prove me wrong !

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Hi guys,

I have several replicas which are so incredibly good that the brand dealer of that specific brand (Omega, Panerai) does not know if it's a replica.

The Submariners i've seen here do not reach that degree of perfection IMHO. Most of the times the etched crown is way too big, the crownguards are not correct, datefont & magnification wrong, rehaut not deep enough, dial printing... etc.

Are there examples of modded Submariners that come to the degree of perfection where a real WIS wouldn't know the difference without opening the caseback?

I'd love to know if that's been done/possible. :rolleyes:

Bruce's is amazing as well. Pics here: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=17489

Sure had me fooled. But, that's what the gen dial, gen insert, and perfectly modded CGs will do....

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But generally Rolex reps are rather poor in comparison. You can't have out-of-the-box Sub, GMT, Daytona, SeaDweller or ExpII which wouldn't be identified as a rep. The only really good Rolex rep is the Explorer I... others are easily spottable for a Rolex WIS.

Indeed, BT. This is the entire reason why I end up building the Rolex watches in my collection. Most out there are close... But not close enough.

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Here are a few pics and details on a Modern 16610 Submariner project I put together...

169644-10103.jpg

Rehaut- Nice and deep.

169644-10104.jpg

Datemag- True 2.5x and the crystal etch at 6:00 is not visible without a loupe.

169644-10105.jpg

Profile (16610 on the top)- note the crystal height, and also the position/height of the crown in relation to the bezel (most sit too low towards the caseback).

169644-10106.jpg

SELs- Edges of the mid link should be crisper, but overall, the shape and size of the SEL is quite close.

169644-10107.jpg

SEL is also 3 pieces fused together.

169644-10108.jpg

The crown and tube are genuine, as is the insert.

169644-10109.jpg

169644-10110.jpg

169644-10111.jpg

Case is of unknown origin (I got it in a trade- I suspect it may be MBW or TW Best, but there are some details and characteristics that make me doubt either). The dial and bracelet are from a TWG 21j Sub.

169644-10112.jpg

169644-10113.jpg

Sorry for the bad pictures....

:)

R

hey ubi this is a genuine submariner :whistling:

come on ... let us know the genuine truth :bleh:

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Here's as close as I've gotten:

169656-10084.jpg

169656-10085.jpg

169656-10086.jpg

169656-10087.jpg

169656-10088.jpg

169656-10089.jpg

169656-10090.jpg

169656-10091.jpg

169656-10092.jpg

169656-10093.jpg

169656-10094.jpg

169656-10095.jpg

169656-10096.jpg

169656-10097.jpg

169656-10098.jpg

This is the one that fooled 3 dif ADs--not intentionaly, either--I didn't go into an AD expecting to fool them; I went in and told them it was fake, to see their reaction to it. They were the ones telling me it was real. It wasn't until I let him take the band off that he believed me--he said he was actually was going to tell me to add the watch to my home-owner's policy.

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Yep, gio, that's a very nice looking watch. Maybe you could enlighten us as to the particulars. I was thinking a TTK base, but then I looked at the movement and noticed the slot at the button to remove the stem/crown. And today I was looking at one of Paul's movements, an eta with the colored gear, but it had Rolex on the rotor, as I recall. Sometimes I get confused!

Tell us more. And great pics BTW.

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Guest RiverwindMDS

Ubi, There's one thing, your sub is really perfect but the SEL on the 16610LV genuine of a friend of mine are not like yours. They are one piece and not like 3 pieces fused together like you told.

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Ubi, There's one thing, your sub is really perfect but the SEL on the 16610LV genuine of a friend of mine are not like yours. They are one piece and not like 3 pieces fused together like you told.

You are right,thats newer productions of the 93250....

There is also no 93250 marking on the first link that touch the SEL...

Thats the Old Version on a Gen one

170466-9843.jpg

Edited by Tribal
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ubi for me,

though his seconds hand is too short and the hour one looks on the small side though it could be the spokes are too thick and creating this illusion. the print on the dial looks to be not white enough either. i would also have added hour hand curvature but its really hard to gauge from the pics. it feels off but who can say.

the others have these plus which nudges ubi in front. :)

edited as others posted while i was typing. are you sure thats a gen dial in gioarmanis?

Edited by thewightstuff
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Thanks for the kind words, gang, but I will be the first to say that mine isn't anywhere close to being perfect. It's nice for what it is... A modded rep with gen parts, but there are still some areas that need revision.

Besides... You all know it's the Daytona that floats my boat...

170498-9838.jpg

170498-9839.jpg

And, if I did have to pick out a Sub/SD for accuracy, this one would be my pick...

170498-9840.jpg

All just my humble $0.02 of course...

:)

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edited as others posted while i was typing. are you sure thats a gen dial in gioarmanis?

no, not gioarmani - bruce. It wasn't really a serious question, though. However I would say, that for modern subs, bruce's wins me over. The gen dial is the icing on the cake. But Ubi's is the one that originally got me started on a sub project at all and I followed his lead on alot. Likewise, Tribal is the modern sub king and has a phenominal piece too. Then, of course, for vintages it is definitely the Ubi 1665 that's bending my arm to do one of those. *sigh* It's only money.

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how's my old sub? :p my opinion, it's hard to get endlinks to fit properly to the case and lugs. lots of times there is a big gap which is a quick givaway to a rep. you can fix the etching, you can fix the crowngaurds, you can replace the crown and tube, you can relume (to do it properly make sure it's not too bright as genuine rolex lume is kind of weak if you ask me) but even to the non-wis, people associate a genuine rolex with quality and perfection so ill fitting bracelets give it away more even than crown gaurds do. i think the endlinks are the first place to start modding. and i am not a rolex guy :Jumpy:

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All of the subs you guys have posted are superb...mine is still a work in progress but I appreciate the compliments. Really the finishing touch for my sub will be the loose end links, 93150/580. Here are a few more poor pics...I really need a better camera.

170539-9817.jpg

170539-9818.jpg

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