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1016 dial


alterego

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Hi fellows. I hope you can help me in this one.

Since I sold my gen 1016 a year ago I've been looking for a rep, to fill that huge empty place in my watch box and my heart.

As the reps available are not as good, I 'm thinking of building one. That is to say, ask my watch master do it for me.

I have a Datejust case and movement (Swiss ETA) I ned a dial, hands, crown, tube, crystal and bracelet. Since gen  dials go from $ 1.500 to $ 4.000K I think I'll go for a refinished one, that can be bought for a lot less. There are few in the bay but I don't know the diameter that will fit the case. I cheked nd there are some that have a 26.2 mm diameter Is tat the standard for the vintage  Explorer ?.

 

I know this is going to be a long time project, but I want to start wi this first monthof the year.

 

I'll very much appreciate your suggestions.

 

Cheers !!!

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Personally, I used a Whoopy dial in mine. It's great, but unless someone has one in their parts box, you can't find them anymore as Whoopy sold through all of them.

 

Right now the most reasonably priced decent 1016 dial is Yuki's.

 

I like the NDTrading dials a bit better, but according to others that have tried contacting them, they have been difficult to reach as of late. If you are OK with a SpaceDweller dial, the ingodd44 is great.

 

I would stay away from the eBay dials. The lume on most of them looks like it was applied by a 3rd grader.

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Respect Alterego!

What a story!

 

You are on the right path, gathering parts for a 1016 build.

 

What ref # is your DJ case?

 

The dial is the most essential part of the built, the other half is the case of course.

There are at times very good deals for genuine, even NOS 1016 dials, way below the mentioned high prices!

Whoopy's dial was one good option.

The other most affordable is Yuki.

 

Then you have NDtrading or MQ, their dials are the same, I suspect NDtrading dials almost all come from MQ. ND do not respond to contacts so you may have better luck with MQ.

Prices are higher.

 

Diameter of Yuki's dial is 28mm, that is what the genuine dial diameter is. Dial feet are genuine positioned at 30 and 57 minutes.

Start your build maybe first with a Yuki dial if you don't find any better, then keep looking for a genuine dial or a better refinished one and have then swapped later.

 

Best of luck!

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I've seen gen 1016 service dials sold as low as $350. For $1500 you'd hopefully pay for gilt and rarer (chapter ring, exclamation etc). As always depends on your patience and will to scan the internet on hourly basis...if not gen, I prefer Yuki based on experienced quality, availability and price.

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Respect Alterego!

What a story!

 

You are on the right path, gathering parts for a 1016 build.

 

What ref # is your DJ case?

 

The dial is the most essential part of the built, the other half is the case of course.

There are at times very good deals for genuine, even NOS 1016 dials, way below the mentioned high prices!

Whoopy's dial was one good option.

The other most affordable is Yuki.

 

Then you have NDtrading or MQ, their dials are the same, I suspect NDtrading dials almost all come from MQ. ND do not respond to contacts so you may have better luck with MQ.

Prices are higher.

 

Diameter of Yuki's dial is 28mm, that is what the genuine dial diameter is. Dial feet are genuine positioned at 30 and 57 minutes.

Start your build maybe first with a Yuki dial if you don't find any better, then keep looking for a genuine dial or a better refinished one and have then swapped later.

 

Best of luck!

Thank you for your comments Blue. You are right when you say I should look for a for  a dial first. This is the most difficult part to sourceI guess, so  once you have it, you one'll feel closer to the moment to tie the watch to your wrist. I'll keep my eyes open. Not to mention that if youknow about a decent dial you'll pass on, please let me know. by PM.

 

The case is an old school (2005) rep Datejust ref 16200 with saphire crystal. I know I need an older  case, capable of receiving the plexi crystal. But, that's where I am as I write this note.

 

Thank you for all the help to you and other members who have repied to my post.

 

Cheers !!!

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Thank you for your comments Blue. You are right when you say I should look for a for  a dial first. This is the most difficult part to sourceI guess, so  once you have it, you one'll feel closer to the moment to tie the watch to your wrist. I'll keep my eyes open. Not to mention that if youknow about a decent dial you'll pass on, please let me know. by PM.

 

The case is an old school (2005) rep Datejust ref 16200 with saphire crystal. I know I need an older  case, capable of receiving the plexi crystal. But, that's where I am as I write this note.

 

Thank you for all the help to you and other members who have repied to my post.

 

Cheers !!!

You would have to clean your Inbox in order to be able to send you a PM!

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Quite frankly, anyone looking to build a 1016 franken that doesn't use JMB's new enhanced case is crazy.

 

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/174928-fs-enhanced-explorer-1016-case-kit/

 

Other than going with a gen case of some sort, there really is no better choice. He's done a remarkable job on these, and you can upgrade with gen crystal and tube.

 

It's the easiest way to do the project, IMO and the price is right. I wish they were available when I did my build.

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Yes, it should work. JMB's case was designed for a 2824 and the sizes are the same.

 

You can't use the date versions though (1530/1560/1570).

 

Having said that, I rarely recommend using a gen Rolex caliber on a closed caseback watch when there is an ETA that will work, especially when you are not using a gen case. The cost/benefit ratio just doesn't cut it.

Edited by tomhorn
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Yes, it should work. JMB's case was designed for a 2824 and the sizes are the same.

 

You can't use the date versions though (1530/1560/1570).

 

Having said that, I rarely recommend using a gen Rolex caliber on a closed caseback watch when there is an ETA that will work, especially when you are not using a gen case. The cost/benefit ratio just doesn't cut it.

 

Couldn't agree more. What's the point of going to that expense? Oh, and let's not forget Rolex themselves use ETA movements in their Tudor range. So, an ETA movement (if you want to split hairs) is just as much a Rolex movement as a 1520 ie it is sold by the Rolex company which, by definition makes it a Rolex.

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Agree with tomhorn and dp.

Genuine rolex movements have no advantage over an Eta in a replica and only a slight advantage in Frankensteins. The difference in the worth of a Rolexstien vs an Etastein is only the price difference of the movement.

 

If you use a genuine rolex 162xx case, a rolex 1520/70 no date movement with a 1016 dial will drop right in. A 1520/70 will not fit properly in a genuine 16xxx case because the stem will be too far to the front.

A rolex no date 1520/70 is very close to the same size as a rolex 3135.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi: Here is an update on the 1016 build. Because of low resources for funding the project and as the gen s run quite high in price I decided to go for the Yuki dial. It arrived today, but surprise ... he sent me a Space Dweller dial instead . I had little knowledge about this variant of the 1016. So I don´t know what to do. The sial is similar in seze but the Explorer signature has been replaced  for Space Dweller.  I´m still  waiting for the case from JMB, shipped abut three weeks ago. 

 

What do you brothers think about putting together  a Space Dweller instead of the original Explorer ?

 

here is a pic of the dial. 

 

 

Respect Alterego!

What a story!

 

You are on the right path, gathering parts for a 1016 build.

 

What ref # is your DJ case?

 

The dial is the most essential part of the built, the other half is the case of course.

There are at times very good deals for genuine, even NOS 1016 dials, way below the mentioned high prices!

Whoopy's dial was one good option.

The other most affordable is Yuki.

 

Then you have NDtrading or MQ, their dials are the same, I suspect NDtrading dials almost all come from MQ. ND do not respond to contacts so you may have better luck with MQ.

Prices are higher.

 

Diameter of Yuki's dial is 28mm, that is what the genuine dial diameter is. Dial feet are genuine positioned at 30 and 57 minutes.

Start your build maybe first with a Yuki dial if you don't find any better, then keep looking for a genuine dial or a better refinished one and have then swapped later.

 

Best of luck!

 

post-1234-0-53743700-1423839649_thumb.jp

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Hi: Here is an update on the 1016 build. Because of low resources for funding the project and as the gen s run quite high in price I decided to go for the Yuki dial. It arrived today, but surprise ... he sent me a Space Dweller dial instead . I had little knowledge about this variant of the 1016. So I don´t know what to do. The sial is similar in seze but the Explorer signature has been replaced  for Space Dweller.  I´m still  waiting for the case from JMB, shipped abut three weeks ago. 

 

What do you brothers think about putting together  a Space Dweller instead of the original Explorer ?

 

here is a pic of the dial. 

If you decide that this isn't for you, I have an unused Whoopy 1016 dial that I would be willing to trade you.

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Thank you guys for the feedback on the Space Dweller dial. Indeed it´s a beautiful face. After seing the Reppin build´s pic I have no doubts I´ll use it in the  project. I can´t wait to have the case so as to start. Then It´ll be time to think of the bracelet and movement, so as to qualify as a member of the Club. Thank you all again.

 

Cheers !!!

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Thank you guys for the feedback on the Space Dweller dial. Indeed it´s a beautiful face. After seing the Reppin build´s pic I have no doubts I´ll use it in the project. I can´t wait to have the case so as to start. Then It´ll be time to think of the bracelet and movement, so as to qualify as a member of the Club. Thank you all again.

Cheers !!!

You won't be disapointed!

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