ww12345 Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hah - isn't it funny that part of our hobby is replicating sloppiness and mistakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Yes, bloody Rolex with their shoody work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Yeah, kinda sad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigelow Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 This is looking great. I'd sent you a pm about drilling lug holes on a TC, any idea if you'll be offering this for subs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachcomber Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 So, is it the general consensus that the very lightly engraved looks better/more authentic than the deeper engraved?at least that's my opinion from seeing older gens. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Great effort J. If I may comment on this I would suggest to go .001 less deep than the first try. The .001 deeper version looks to me as too deep. The first try also looks a tiny bit to deep. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kime Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 This is a great start !! Personally I would say that even the 2nd attempt is too deep and I think you should go shallower, in general these lug engravings are very shallow unless looked at under extreme macro. So if you are looking at a normal photo and they look about the right depth then there is every chance they are too deep, under a macro lens they will look way to deep. I would also try to match the numbers a bit better, especially the zero, maybe they can be traced from original photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 I am currently working up programs for 16610 and 14060 in addition to the 1016. I should be able to do any of those pretty much now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 I might be able to make it "sloppy" looking like the old ones by taking some tensioner pressure off the drive belt... Or a couple of Tequila shots... I tried it by hand using a diamond tip scribe. The depth and width looked close, but I haven't got the talent to make the nimbers and letters right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hah - isn't it funny that part of our hobby is replicating sloppiness and mistakes? dieselpower Yes, bloody Rolex with their shoody work I would think that back in the early 1950s, so soon after the war, small companies like Rolex weren't sure they would be able to stay in business. The economy in Europe was not nearly as good as in the U.S. Near as I can tell from reading and seeing pictures, a good portion of a Rolex was hand made. That made for variances (mistakes), and individuality (more mistake), which yielded the long term advantage to replica builders 60 years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 I am currently working up programs for 16610 and 14060 in addition to the 1016. I should be able to do any of those pretty much now... Now you only need to move to Europe ;-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonsydney Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 This is a fantastic little project, JMB - thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 I read somewhere (VRF?) that the wobbly lines in the engraving between lugs were caused by worn font tracks in the engraving machine. Sounds reasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POTR Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 I'd say not only play and shifting in the plates but loose pantograph hinge pins as well. And you'll note how on some letters they seem to finish with a swing where the stylus wasn't completely lifted away from the case on watches from the 50s and early 60s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck P Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 I would say go for lighter engravings. So many vintage Rolex are almost impossible to even see the engravings anymore after years of bracelet rub etc. Great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Get a pantograph engraver. That is what I use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Get a pantograph engraver. That is what I use. Interesting. Any pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Pantographs are good! A friend in the jewelry business has a Hermes panto with 30 sets of font and can duplicate rolex scribbling perfectly. If he would. But he can't/won't because he is "too busy". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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