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what are the real differences in the Japanese movements and the Swiss ones on the replicas


cavi

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what is the difference between the japanese movements and the swiss movements on the replicas watches, some of the vendors seem to ask 300 to 400 more for the swiss movements.  What are the real differences?  Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am new to all of this

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First off sir, there are tons of articles on the differences. What you need to realize that while the ETA, Sellita, Soprod ,etc. SWISS movements are built within a highly regulated watch industry, the Chinese have no such standards. There are several grades of Chinese movements, and in fact the top grade movements are comparable to the Swiss, the bottom grades are pretty much junk. So rather than worrying about the difference between SWISS and Chinese, I would first concentrate on telling the difference between the various grades of Chinese movements. Why not worry about the Swiss? First off you are not going to see any new ETA movements in reps today, unless it's and older rep or one that has an ETA movement transplanted into the watch by the owner. All these ETA movements the dealers are selling are either old movements taken from watches or they are a mashup of Swiss and Chinese parts. Now, go read.

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[...]

 

Man, I have to compliments you about your patience.

Nearly always, when a noob comes and post questions like these you replies with respectful and informative answer.

Not something common.

So please take my esteem! :)

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Man, I have to compliments you about your patience.

Nearly always, when a noob comes and post questions like these you replies with respectful and informative answer.

Not something common.

So please take my esteem! :)

Thank you sir for the accolades. I can be pretty short sometimes, especially when the noob asks a question that has been asked about 10 million times and is pretty much only answered by personal research. Like who has the best sub!!! In this case, this is a god question, and I believe that redefining his parameters was worth the post. I know that in my case, Since I'm not a fan of or use many Asian xxxxx movements, I'm not very familiar with the differences, except that I know from experience that some of the high end Chinese movements like the Sea Gull 2130 and the BiCompax Venus copy are good well made solid movements, but beyond that, I figure that the movement in the watch will run til it quits or get's erratic, and at that point I will have to decide if I want to replace it with a higher grade movement or get the movement serviced. What  I usually do is decide if the watch is going to be a long term keeper, if it is, I replace the movement, otherwise I get it serviced or replace it with a similar "Cheapo" movement.    

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Man, I have to compliments you about your patience.

Nearly always, when a noob comes and post questions like these you replies with respectful and informative answer.

Not something common.

So please take my esteem! :)

That is because you are used to next store here we are much more civil. ;)

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Always start with a watch that you like...no mater which caliber is in the watch....then when something goes wrong with the movement you will see that you ll start using the search magical button....after that "all hell brakes loose".... :crazy:

   Btw as i learned through years ...is that you will never never know if a so called "Swiss" or "Chinese" or "Swinese" will go dead! So here is an example which is a true story...about a month ago my wife was realy pist off with me :angry: and she took a datejust oversized in her hand and nearly missed my head!!!! the watch flew over my head and CRASHED on the wall with the speed of sound.....the datejust was realy f......up ,,BUT Asia movement 2813 is working great.....so you ll never know how reliable a caliber is,until your wife is [censored] off..... :clown:

 

....the First thing people taught me here is the search button.....

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One post, not even as much as a thank you. If some people acted this way in life they would never get anywhere, Just because you are on a forum doesn't give you the right to break down the door and throw out a question that you could have looked up on your own if you weren't so lazy. BTW, welcome to the forum, no go learn some manners.

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One post, not even as much as a thank you. If some people acted this way in life they would never get anywhere, Just because you are on a forum doesn't give you the right to break down the door and throw out a question that you could have looked up on your own if you weren't so lazy. BTW, welcome to the forum, no go learn some manners.

 

 

You can always use the spiritual approach: Peace, love and...

lCtbg.gif

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To those few that actually gave a good answer with a good starting point, thanks, to the rest of you, sorry I got nothing....

Honestly search is much easier when you actually have a couple of starting points.

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When ordering a rep, you are usually better going with the Asian movement. Most of the "Swiss" movements are either Asians or Swiss movements built out of old parts. Never doubt the reliability of Asian movements, though. I have some that are running well after many years and some that are running to well within COSC timing specs. In reality, any watch movement can be reliable and fairly accurate if cleaned, lubed and regulated well. 

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In reality, you have two chances of actually getting a real new Swiss movement in a replica....

Slim, and none whatsoever....And "Slim" left town last Tuesday..!!

But from the folks that only "stretch the truth" a bit....Avoid the outright liars like the plague..!!! :pimp:

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In reality, you have two chances of actually getting a real new Swiss movement in a replica....

Slim, and none whatsoever....And "Slim" left town last Tuesday..!!

But from the folks that only "stretch the truth" a bit....Avoid the outright liars like the plague..!!! :pimp:

Pretty much true. The supply of ETA movements is being choked off by Swatch. Some are still available from the supply houses and distributors, but the supply is dwindling. MKII watches, which is a boutique brand that builds very nice watches in the 1000-1500 USD range, has a very nice 6542 Rolex GMT homage in preproduction. Lots of folks missed out on the ordering and there has been an appeal to make more than the planned run of 300. Unfortunately, the supply of ETA 2893-2 movements has dried up and probably won't be any more than the 300 produced. So if a boutique watchmaker who has lots of contacts in Switzerland can't get movements, I  doubt that the Chinese makers are getting them. long gone are the days when anyone with the funds could buy ETA movements in 50 or 100 slot trays.

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Oh and btw, at WWW.perfectwatches.cn in the Bretling area, the asian movent watches are either 199 or 247, while the two offered with swiss movement are 740

Yes. Scammers infact. There is nothing like 199 247 etc.
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As others have stated, I would avoid the "Swiss" upgrade from any rep dealer even our TD's.  My last couple attempts resulted in paying for the upgrade but still receiving a clone movement, so in essence paid for the upgrade for no reason.  

I would really avoid "perfectwatches" as that is a scam site.  If I buy an out of the box rep I would order it with the Asian clone movement and then if I really like the watch and had movement issues I would source a genuine ETA from a reputable seller and have it replaced.  Or for a build, I might just start with an ETA.  For example we recently built a TC LV and used a brand new Swiss ETA 2824 in it instead of the clone as I plan to keep the watch.  

The clone movements work fine in many cases as some members have reported.  I have had mixed results with them.  Some have worked great and others not so much.    

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  • 1 month later...

This is a good post for those of us who are still learning. I am considering a Miyota 8205 vs ETA 2824 Vs A2836

Omega PO. The price difference is probably 80-100$

I guess the ETA on reps is not as clear as it seems. The sellers pitch is quite good. And for newbies like me it sounds like the difference between a hyundai and a bmw

Edited by Lacuadra
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