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My new Cartel 5512


Bart Cordell

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I really like the pics from the toro 1680 posted above. The crown position is dead center. Only thing is I'd have to get a new dial for a 5512 build. What do you think of it?

 

Did you also purchase the same Josh Cartel 5512?

it looks like a STAILESS steel case from toro. Be interesting to see if it was a 16** case engraving... maybe it's not new at all they are just using a similar case from a different project seadweller maybe as it's all so fat!

i got mine from josh about 3 months ago. 

i might try redrilling and taking some meat off the top of the case, one day.. :lol:

 

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it looks like a STAILESS steel case from toro. Be interesting to see if it was a 16** case engraving... maybe it's not new at all they are just using a similar case from a different project seadweller maybe as it's all so fat!

i got mine from josh about 3 months ago. 

i might try redrilling and taking some meat off the top of the case, one day..

 

Interesting. So what would you recommend as the base for a budget 5512 or 5513 build?

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Project story...

I put a low buck project watch together now and then and always end up using parts from three or four watches. Since I still have a few vintage style Eta 28xx watches from Abay I usually go with an Abay mid case and dial but change things around to make it more realistic. The dial windows are all 26.0mm so the only 'affordable' dial option besides the original is a Yuki etc 26.5mm 1680 dial. All the Abay dials...5513, 5514, 1680 etc are about 26.5mm so they will all work in any of the Abay cases. The main trouble with the dials is the printing is sometimes a bit dim and the markers at 3-6-9 are too narrow in the beam. One bonus is the Abay 5514 and SD have working oem spec helium valves.

All my Abay cases have two major flaws...the rotating bezels are non oem spec (they have no inner bezel and are simply stuck down over the crystal) and the case back gasket is cut in the case instead of the case back. They do have a good profile however and a completed project has a good look to it, they even have the 'tear drop' lower edge of the crown guard like genuine cases and absent in many replicas. The gasket in the case does not matter much and it allows a thinner case back while accepting low $$ cartel type case backs from Raffles Time etc. I have a few DW 'spring wire' bezel sets and since the Abay cases will accept oem crystals, I use the DW bezels with generic oem spec crystals to save $$. The cases have long, thick crown guards and there is more than enough metal to grind them to shape and the holes in the lugs are located so they can be bored out to 1.3mm without being too high or too low.

What all the BS above boils down to is by using a combination of parts, just about anyone can put together a pretty good watch for not much $$, but you can not be in a hurry. It will usually be quite a bit cheaper than a Yuki or MBK case project watch. MBK watches and cases used to be an option for low buck projects but not today. Besides saving $$, after completing a few 'budget' projects you will know more about the cost and headaches of watch projects and maybe not be as far upside down.

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Project story...

I put a low buck project watch together now and then and always end up using parts from three or four watches. Since I still have a few vintage style Eta 28xx watches from Abay I usually go with an Abay mid case and dial but change things around to make it more realistic. The dial windows are all 26.0mm so the only 'affordable' dial option besides the original is a Yuki etc 26.5mm 1680 dial. All the Abay dials...5513, 5514, 1680 etc are about 26.5mm so they will all work in any of the Abay cases. The main trouble with the dials is the printing is sometimes a bit dim and the markers at 3-6-9 are too narrow in the beam. One bonus is the Abay 5514 and SD have working oem spec helium valves.

All my Abay cases have two major flaws...the rotating bezels are non oem spec (they have no inner bezel and are simply stuck down over the crystal) and the case back gasket is cut in the case instead of the case back. They do have a good profile however and a completed project has a good look to it, they even have the 'tear drop' lower edge of the crown guard like genuine cases and absent in many replicas. The gasket in the case does not matter much and it allows a thinner case back while accepting low $$ cartel type case backs from Raffles Time etc. I have a few DW 'spring wire' bezel sets and since the Abay cases will accept oem crystals, I use the DW bezels with generic oem spec crystals to save $$. The cases have long, thick crown guards and there is more than enough metal to grind them to shape and the holes in the lugs are located so they can be bored out to 1.3mm without being too high or too low.

What all the BS above boils down to is by using a combination of parts, just about anyone can put together a pretty good watch for not much $$, but you can not be in a hurry. It will usually be quite a bit cheaper than a Yuki or MBK case project watch. MBK watches and cases used to be an option for low buck projects but not today. Besides saving $$, after completing a few 'budget' projects you will know more about the cost and headaches of watch projects and maybe not be as far upside down.

Expect a PM from me when I get ready to start my build!  Thanks for the great info here.  That helps put things into perspective.  Do you have these cases and dials, bezel assemblies readily available, or are they only for your personal projects/tinkering?

I recently purchased all of my tools and I am really chomping at the bit to start tinkering and working on budget projects this winter.  That's why I'm really interested in this 5512 and the 1680 that were posted in this thread, but your suggestions above sound very promising.  Quite a few members on the various boards have been gracious enough to share tips and tricks with me and I'm looking forward to just rolling my sleeves up and trying my hand at it.  I know I am going to mess up a few dials along the way, but that is all part of learning the skills needed for this hobby!  

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I just looked at the pics of the original 5512 again and I didn't notice this before - the crown position is really low on the case. emoji20.png

as is the case with almost all rep vintage subs, even the mbk/mbw has a pretty low crown compared with gen. par for the course unless you spend some big bucks. you will just have to accept it as a budget build and enjoy it as is.

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as is the case with almost all rep vintage subs, even the mbk/mbw has a pretty low crown compared with gen. par for the course unless you spend some big bucks. you will just have to accept it as a budget build and enjoy it as is.

Yeah, that is too bad. My Puretime 1680 is a great case but I've heard that Angus has been out of stock of those for quite some time, plus I also heard that the bezel assembly has been changed to feature a clip spring design.

So with that in mind, do we think the Josh case or the Toro case is a better overall budget starting point?

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"Do you have these cases and dials, bezel assemblies readily available, or are they only for your personal projects/tinkering?"

I will hang on to the cases and parts for now as I still have a few along with associated parts. They are basically just a cheaper alternative to what is available today but they are not too accurate without swapping parts, trimming CG, and drilling the lugs. Much of what is available today for $200 to $300 is superior but I already had these.

 

"I have No idea what an abay case is ."

'Abay', 'Pam111', 'Womart', 'Aspire', and a few other names were websites belonging to a guy called 'Paul'. He was famous for his 'Crazy Sale' offering watches with new swiss Eta 2836 for $159 and sometimes as low as $99. At the end of his run he was offering 'The Ultimate Sub' that was essentially the 'noobmariner' with a few (but not all) being the famous F520117.

 

For anyone not familiar with where the MBW/MBK names originated, here is the story from the other RWG posted by 'KBH' on May 18, 2010:

The MBW (Maria's Best Watch) was sold by a German chap named Maria, who was very difficult to deal with and get in touch with. This gave the MBW a cult following. This was, I believe, the first high quality Sub rep mass produced. Later someone found the source which was a dealer in the MBK shopping Center in Bangkok and blew the whistle on George's monopoly. The MBW was apparently from a factory that produced watches also known later as TWB (Taiwan's Best). By-tor did a comprehensive review on these two watches as did BKLM1234 which are available on other forums with a little research."

You can go to   http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=5622   and scroll down to the post by "Mr Good Guy" and read a condensed version of the 'noobmariner' story. I was on TRC when all this came about but never got a vintage MBK case until I snagged a 5513 case from Freddy333 three or four years ago.       

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Come a long way since I bought this watch. I learned and experimented so many things. And I still have so much to learn.

I love PCG 5513 but I have always thought it's to tricky for me to achieve a good Crown Guard shape. I have look to many pics and ask friends members some advices and more details photos. Today I woke up thinking it was time to improve this Cartel case.

Here is the result after few hours of diamond files and 240, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500 then 2000 sand papers grade. Need a little buffing.

Very nice with Athaya 700 crown.

f79c5868f5407f8b499e74715797670c.jpg38ba577977cdfdf628bd25dc37131544.jpgca15b5a745abca1b2c07cf433363188b.jpge3940aea3cd7bd4fc15e0f81d174eb13.jpgd99478c68f0633af19d910cd4bc598c5.jpg9b4c6f32895c0a2bdd2961195fefa1f3.jpg811767c3b7aec5bb626c0baf54ec5291.jpg0bc05084ba90118495991cc6ed2fd333.jpg

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