jackflash Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Amazing results! Congrats 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicoolas Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 The second one, very glossy but some trouble with the DW Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staten12 Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 The second one, very glossy but some trouble with the DW Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk How did you make these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 The second one, very glossy but some trouble with the DW Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Nice Nicolas ! You could get better results with sharper draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) How do you cut the date window to avoid this? I can see this working amazingly well for no date dials. I am sure it is really hard to cut that window. You'd need a very sharp Xacto blade and a steady hand! Edited March 29, 2016 by Mendota Explorer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicoolas Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) It is printed with a professional laser printer on transparent stikers and a lot of automotive clear. The DW is cut wiht a xacto....but so hard to cut it . Bart 45 minutes ago, Bart Cordell said: You could get better results with sharper draw. what does it mean ? Edited March 29, 2016 by nicoolas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I print the date window portion all back as the dial is, no outline for the window at all. When fully dried it should be tight. I then cut the opening in an 'X', from corner across to opposing corner. That makes 4 little triangles. From the back of the dial, I then use a toothpick dipped in the Micro-Set to wet each triangle, one at a time, and draw it over the bevel and out the back, folding onto the back of the dial. The vinyl decals I use have a little, tiny bit of stretch to them. Using the toothpick I pull the triangle taught on the back of the dial. Then hold it there until it sticks. The decals take the shape of the bevel nicely. Some bit of trim might be needed, and I do that with the same wetted toothpick, smoothing the corners if necessary. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revere Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 On 3/30/2016 at 2:29 PM, JoeyB said: I print the date window portion all back as the dial is, no outline for the window at all. When fully dried it should be tight. I then cut the opening in an 'X', from corner across to opposing corner. That makes 4 little triangles. From the back of the dial, I then use a toothpick dipped in the Micro-Set to wet each triangle, one at a time, and draw it over the bevel and out the back, folding onto the back of the dial. The vinyl decals I use have a little, tiny bit of stretch to them. Using the toothpick I pull the triangle taught on the back of the dial. Then hold it there until it sticks. The decals take the shape of the bevel nicely. Some bit of trim might be needed, and I do that with the same wetted toothpick, smoothing the corners if necessary. This is great advice. I've never worked with this specific application but I've done similar things with decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 6610 Explorer dial today And a 6538 for a friend Bubbles will disappear after few hours. 10x 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 5513 dried 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperHero Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 You work keeps getting more impressive. Curious... There is a small gap to the edge and the decal. How big is that and is the dial 26mm or the decal? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Brilliant work Bart! You're creating some amazing builds 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 You work keeps getting more impressive. Curious... There is a small gap to the edge and the decal. How big is that and is the dial 26mm or the decal? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Brilliant work Bart! You're creating some amazing builds Thanks ! I retouched dials again to reach better details. There is a gap because I don't print decals at the dials size for the 6538 and 6610. If I print at 29mm, the train is too close from the rehaut and "SWISS" is hidden. At 28.5mm print size, the edge I hidden by the rehaut and SWISS is clearly visible. And the minutes hands are closer from the markers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 6610 test in jmb V2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperHero Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Thanks ! I retouched dials again to reach better details. There is a gap because I don't print decals at the dials size for the 6538 and 6610. If I print at 29mm, the train is too close from the rehaut and "SWISS" is hidden. At 28.5mm print size, the edge I hidden by the rehaut and SWISS is clearly visible. And the minutes hands are closer from the markers. Got it. Thought you were using smaller dials but if the plate is 29mm, makes sense. Impressive stuff and e updates are great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Fantastic! These are amazing. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Well done! @Bart Cordell I got some more gifts coming by mail... Hopefully you find use for them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 @hologramet Thank you ! The 5513 is for you. Will lume it soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 As stated in the pinned 'Ultimate Rolex Mercedes Hands Comparison' thread: I believe that the chapter ring itself measures 26mm in diameter on chapter ring dials. For our purposes, Gen or aftermarket outside diameter of the dial itself doesn't matter to hand size. Only the chapter ring size does. On the early GMT and Submariners, a 13mm minute hand was used. That put the tip of the minute hand right to the chapter ring. The small arrow GMT hand used on 6542 and 1675 chapter ring dials also measured 13mm, and the tip met the chapter ring. =========== For accuracy, what matters on a dial is the hand length to the markers, not the outside of the dial you are using to fit a case. The later GMT and Submariners up to the maxi hands used a 12mm minute hand. That is short of the chapter ring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 As stated in the pinned 'Ultimate Rolex Mercedes Hands Comparison' thread: I believe that the chapter ring itself measures 26mm in diameter on chapter ring dials. For our purposes, Gen or aftermarket outside diameter of the dial itself doesn't matter to hand size. Only the chapter ring size does. On the early GMT and Submariners, a 13mm minute hand was used. That put the tip of the minute hand right to the chapter ring. The small arrow GMT hand used on 6542 and 1675 chapter ring dials also measured 13mm, and the tip met the chapter ring. =========== For accuracy, what matters on a dial is the hand length to the markers, not the outside of the dial you are using to fit a case. The later GMT and Submariners up to the maxi hands used a 12mm minute hand. That is short of the chapter ring. Read this comparison thread but I forgot this detail. Luckily chapter rings are exactly 26mm on my 6538 and 6610. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Weekend production 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Really like that chapter ring explorer dial, great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMAC Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 On April 3, 2016 at 9:45 PM, Bart Cordell said: Weekend production Bart well done. I need to work on getting you excited and focused on some Tudor submariner dials, like triangle marker 9401 and snowflakes. Keep at it and let me know when the Tudor bug bites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Cordell Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Bart well done. I need to work on getting you excited and focused on some Tudor submariner dials, like triangle marker 9401 and snowflakes. Keep at it and let me know when the Tudor bug bites. Thank you. Tudors snowflakes leave me cold. I'm focused on creating gilt dials only, and i don't think there is gilt snowflakes. Maybe I'm wrong... let me know. I could try to draw 7922 or 7928, but I think the rose logo is too thin to be well printed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Wow these turned out really great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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