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Decals print dials


Bart Cordell

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It is printed with a professional laser printer on  transparent stikers and a lot of automotive clear.

The DW is cut wiht a xacto....but so hard to cut it .

Bart 

45 minutes ago, Bart Cordell said:

 

You could get better results with sharper draw. 

what does it mean ?

Edited by nicoolas
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I print the date window portion all back as the dial is, no outline for the window at all. When fully dried it should be tight. I then cut the opening in an 'X', from corner across to opposing corner. That makes 4 little triangles. From the back of the dial, I then use a toothpick dipped in the Micro-Set to wet each triangle, one at a time, and draw it over the bevel and out the back, folding onto the back of the dial. The vinyl decals I use have a little, tiny bit of stretch to them. Using the toothpick I pull the triangle taught on the back of the dial. Then hold it there until it sticks. The decals take the shape of the bevel nicely. Some bit of trim might be needed, and I do that with the same wetted toothpick, smoothing the corners if necessary.   

 

dial.JPG

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On 3/30/2016 at 2:29 PM, JoeyB said:

I print the date window portion all back as the dial is, no outline for the window at all. When fully dried it should be tight. I then cut the opening in an 'X', from corner across to opposing corner. That makes 4 little triangles. From the back of the dial, I then use a toothpick dipped in the Micro-Set to wet each triangle, one at a time, and draw it over the bevel and out the back, folding onto the back of the dial. The vinyl decals I use have a little, tiny bit of stretch to them. Using the toothpick I pull the triangle taught on the back of the dial. Then hold it there until it sticks. The decals take the shape of the bevel nicely. Some bit of trim might be needed, and I do that with the same wetted toothpick, smoothing the corners if necessary.   

 

 

This is great advice. I've never worked with this specific application but I've done similar things with decals. 

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You work keeps getting more impressive. Curious... There is a small gap to the edge and the decal. How big is that and is the dial 26mm or the decal?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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You work keeps getting more impressive. Curious... There is a small gap to the edge and the decal. How big is that and is the dial 26mm or the decal?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brilliant work Bart! You're creating some amazing builds

Thanks !

I retouched dials again to reach better details.

There is a gap because I don't print decals at the dials size for the 6538 and 6610. If I print at 29mm, the train is too close from the rehaut and "SWISS" is hidden.

At 28.5mm print size, the edge I hidden by the rehaut and SWISS is clearly visible. And the minutes hands are closer from the markers.

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Thanks !

I retouched dials again to reach better details.

There is a gap because I don't print decals at the dials size for the 6538 and 6610. If I print at 29mm, the train is too close from the rehaut and "SWISS" is hidden.

At 28.5mm print size, the edge I hidden by the rehaut and SWISS is clearly visible. And the minutes hands are closer from the markers.

Got it. Thought you were using smaller dials but if the plate is 29mm, makes sense. Impressive stuff and e updates are great!

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As stated in the pinned 'Ultimate Rolex Mercedes Hands Comparison' thread:

I believe that the chapter ring itself measures 26mm in diameter on chapter ring dials. For our purposes, Gen or aftermarket outside diameter of the dial itself doesn't matter to hand size. Only the chapter ring size does.


 

On the early GMT and Submariners, a 13mm minute hand was used. That put the tip of the minute hand right to the chapter ring. The small arrow GMT hand used on 6542 and 1675 chapter ring dials also measured 13mm, and the tip met the chapter ring.

===========

For accuracy, what matters on a dial is the hand length to the markers, not the outside of the dial you are using to fit a case. The later GMT and Submariners up to the maxi hands used a 12mm minute hand. That is short of the chapter ring. 
 

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As stated in the pinned 'Ultimate Rolex Mercedes Hands Comparison' thread:

I believe that the chapter ring itself measures 26mm in diameter on chapter ring dials. For our purposes, Gen or aftermarket outside diameter of the dial itself doesn't matter to hand size. Only the chapter ring size does.

 

On the early GMT and Submariners, a 13mm minute hand was used. That put the tip of the minute hand right to the chapter ring. The small arrow GMT hand used on 6542 and 1675 chapter ring dials also measured 13mm, and the tip met the chapter ring.

===========

For accuracy, what matters on a dial is the hand length to the markers, not the outside of the dial you are using to fit a case. The later GMT and Submariners up to the maxi hands used a 12mm minute hand. That is short of the chapter ring. 

 

Read this comparison thread but I forgot this detail. Luckily chapter rings are exactly 26mm on my 6538 and 6610.

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On April 3, 2016 at 9:45 PM, Bart Cordell said:

Weekend production

9610d436a06d28fc2dbe1f06c1be13ab.jpgddc57c222b4d4e2f91e8e0d612a33ede.jpg32906bbb8ef14052c5792d9c1ab5fc88.jpga719b6d726265962844a9363ea4da885.jpg

Bart well done. I need to work on getting you excited and focused on some Tudor submariner dials, like triangle marker 9401 and snowflakes. 

Keep at it and let me know when the Tudor bug bites. 

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Bart well done. I need to work on getting you excited and focused on some Tudor submariner dials, like triangle marker 9401 and snowflakes. 

Keep at it and let me know when the Tudor bug bites. 

Thank you.

Tudors snowflakes leave me cold. I'm focused on creating gilt dials only, and i don't think there is gilt snowflakes. Maybe I'm wrong... let me know.

I could try to draw 7922 or 7928, but I think the rose logo is too thin to be well printed.

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