ChiefGoatHerder Posted May 27, 2020 Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 Hi all, I am new to this forum and until very recently had no idea that there exists a thriving community of replica watch builders! I've done a great deal of reading through past topics on this forum over the last couple of days and find it all fascinating. Whilst my grail watch is a Rolex MilSub ref.5517, I am very aware that there is a slim-to-none chance of me ever owning a gen MilSub and have decided that I'd like to build my own, like many others here. Below, is a list of parts and their manufacturers that some users have provided me with. Any nudges in the right direction, suggestions, knowledge that any of you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. It is a project that I would like to start soon and ideally finish by the end of the year. Overall, I'd say I have a budget of around £2,500. Case Set - Ruby's Dial - Ruby's Hands - Yuki Crown - I want to use a genuine Rolex crown. Is it a 702 crown that I need? Movement - I would like to use a genuine Rolex movement. Is 1520 the movement I'd need? Bezel - Who does the most accurate at the moment? I'd also like the dial to look like aged Tritium, who am I best off going to for this? Again, I am very new to all of this so forgive me if I've said anything stupid. I really appreciate people taking the time to read this and help me. Cheers all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too: If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com) http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517 Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set: http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878 Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too: http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517 Hands from Yuki: https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255 702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya: http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/ Movement: Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too. https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689 Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier: https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm Check out the section for modding services here on RWG: https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/ Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best. That’s abut it. Good luck! Edited May 28, 2020 by jackflash 5 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddhabar Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 21 minutes ago, jackflash said: Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too: If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com) http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517 Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set: http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878 Dial from Ruby too: http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517 Hands from Yuki: https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm 702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya: http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/ Movement: Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too. https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689 Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier: https://www.cwcwatch.com/products/phoenix-nato-watch-strap Check out the section for modding services here on RWG: https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/ Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best. That’s abut it. Good luck! [[Template core/front/global/commentEditLine is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] +1 Great Help from Jack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sogeha Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 2 hours ago, jackflash said: Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too: If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com) http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517 Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set: http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878 Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too: http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517 Hands from Yuki: https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255 702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya: http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/ Movement: Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too. https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689 Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier: https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm Check out the section for modding services here on RWG: https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/ Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best. That’s abut it. Good luck! [[Template core/front/global/commentEditLine is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] Solid information, gained the hard way and shared freely ❤️ 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Solid information, gained the hard way and shared freely The benefit of hindsight. Thanks buddy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altesporsche Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Or you could always buy one that’s already built 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefGoatHerder Posted June 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Cheers for all the help! 21 hours ago, altesporsche said: Or you could always buy one that’s already built 😎 altesporsche - I am considering it haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiesn089 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Hi guys, apologies for hijacking this thread, but since it's not that old I hope that's not an issue. After getting fed up with the gen world's "no watch for you policy" I am currently contemplating another Milsub build following my gen-powered Phong based one from a few years back. I foolishly gave that one to my brother who now refuses to sell it back to me, so no real options here I guess :D. Like with my last build, I want to build the best one possible. So gen movement and best available dial are a must. If the unspeakable one will sell me another dial, I'll start gathering the remaining parts. I'm pretty much set on everything else already (though open to suggestions of course :)). Will go for Ruby's case set, CWP hands (should have a pair lying around here somewhere), gen crown and tube, gen hacking 1520 from a period correct donor watch, Air King 5500 from the late 70s I suppose. I'll try the TrueDome t19 as a crystal and that's about it. Hopefully I'll have it finished around end of this year, if and that's a big if, I'm able to source the dial. Here's my question: Ruby's insert looks amazing, really great to see that someone managed to produce an affordable one at last. Case looks good as well, though I think it'll need a little work to make it more accurate. Any suggestions who does exceptional case work atm and has experience with Phong/Ruby cases? Preferably in the EU? Dbane reshaped my Phong case and I was very happy with how it turned out, but judging from the fact his last post here is from early 2019, I fear he's not around any more... I would like to go for a fully restored Bexley look again, so brushed case with visible clean chamfers. Similar to the double reference pictured here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Here’s the ”best recipe” currently:Nowadays it much easier to make a good enough-5517. The crown guards are the weakest part, but Helenarous case is quite close. There wasnt a good 5517 insert until about 6 months when I helped Ruby getting it right. The genuine 5517-insert I have helped Ruby get the closest so far, the serifs are not 100%, but se are talking tiny 0,1mm serifs. And that is good. Otherwise 5517-inserts would be impossible to differ from gen.The build would be something like this:—HelenaRou case (bezel ass. And crown/tube arent up to standards, but c’est la vie, wont use them anyway). Have Vietnam engrave it correctly underside of the lug + caseback. Rubys is Also very good... but still... the crown guards.—HelenaRou custom printed dial (they have the correct dial layout) ask them to just pad-print white text and white plots for lume background for ETA-plate.—-Vietnam bezel assembly incl correct insert—-Genuine Omega SM300 hands—-Michael Young Superdome T19—-Athaya pearl—-Athaya 7020 tube and 702 crown—-I recommend a Tissot Powermatic 80 lowbeat-2824-2.—-Custom lume-job in Vietnam of hands, dial and pearl——Removal of date complication and conversion to single-hack crown stem——Custom aging of insert——Custom reshape of especially crown guards.——Get a vintage MOD-strap (or modern Phoenix) admirality grey or as I recommend Phenomenato instead.Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Examples of aging:RUBY:———GENUINE:——-Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Ruby’s insert is great. It does tend to turn purple-ish when bleached rather than charcoal-grey. So don’t over do it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 11 hours ago, jackflash said: Ruby’s insert is great. It does tend to turn purple-ish when bleached rather than charcoal-grey. So don’t over do it. my tip is dont bleach at all. use Bergeon ultrafine abrasive block 5444A. Never use sandpaper. Mount the insert in a bezel on a watch. (Ye this will also soften the bezel teeth a little bit, if this is a problem use a separate bezel). The bezel protects the external border (If you can create a recessed fit before starting. and the plexi protects the internal border. Put more pressure on the outer parts. Slowly. Slowly. Slowly. When done, try adding heat with a stormlighter with circular moves. As soon as you start seeing brown tones. Stop. ThIs removes most of the shine, and makes the colors way more natural. @jackflash I would recommend trying it as I know exactly what you mean with the purple tones. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 my tip is dont bleach at all. use Bergeon ultrafine abrasive block 5444A. Never use sandpaper. Mount the insert in a bezel on a watch. (Ye this will also soften the bezel teeth a little bit, if this is a problem use a separate bezel). The bezel protects the external border (If you can create a recessed fit before starting. and the plexi protects the internal border. Put more pressure on the outer parts. Slowly. Slowly. Slowly. When done, try adding heat with a stormlighter with circular moves. As soon as you start seeing brown tones. Stop. ThIs removes most of the shine, and makes the colors way more natural. [mention=48510]jackflash[/mention] I would recommend trying it as I know exactly what you mean with the purple tones. Great advice! Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 On a tip from [mention=59902]hologramet[/mention], I purchased an insert from [mention=47967]Dlf[/mention]. What can I say, it’s amazing! Here it is now installed on my 5517. Thank you both guys! 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rower Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 The Best only gets better! Well done and thank you for sharing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sogeha Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Damn, that looks goodSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 On 5/28/2020 at 12:53 AM, jackflash said: Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too: If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com) http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517 Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set: http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878 Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too: http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517 Hands from Yuki: https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255 702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya: http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/ Movement: Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too. https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689 Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier: https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm Check out the section for modding services here on RWG: https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/ Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best. That’s abut it. Good luck! If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown? What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages? I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak. Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702. I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown? What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages? I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak. Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702. I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know. 1) 702 is period correct2) Rubys crown looks like a fat 703, is marked like a 702. Everything is just wrong. 702 is also Triplock. I highly doubt the seals between crown/tube will limit your WR. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 If we buy a complete Ruby case, what is the need for an Athaya 702 crown? What version of the crown comes on Ruby case and what are the advantages disadvantages? I know the Athaya 702 looks incredible but the clutch springs in crowns are weak. Plus, if the Ruby crown is 703 or 704, it will be more water proof than the Athaya 702. I'm about to order a Ruby case so I really would like to please know. Naturally you could just stick with Ruby’s crown and tube. You’d have to ask her the exact spec. Correct for a 5517 would be a 702. The only budget alternative to a gen is Athaya’s 702. I’ve used them in several builds. Maybe I got lucky, I’ve had no problems with them. For the right 5517-look, 702 is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Athaya 702 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Thank you Jackflash and Hologramet. I have a Vietnam midcase that came with no crown so I indeed use an Athaya 702 and have to admit it has not had a water intrusion problem. However, I recently received a genuine sub crown that came with a 1520 movement and what I noticed is the inside gasket was massive and heavy duty looking. I think the crown is a 704 or maybe a 703. It just looks so much better and heavier duty looking. But I understand the period correctness for 5517 you are talking about. I guess I was kind of high jacking the thread to understand the construction of the Ruby case crown but I think it's helpful to know for this build here as well the information about either crown. It sounds like the crown that comes with a Vietnam case is clunky and not good anyways so it sounds like a good idea to always use Athaya or a gen on it for any build. So thank you, this has been helpful and I think helpful for this cool 5517 project here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hologramet Posted February 20, 2021 Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 Athaya has both a tube for gen 702 and a tube+crown that is aftermarket.You most likely have a 703-crown and the 703-0 tube. It has a similar look to the 702... But is thicker/wider/protrudes more.In my experience.. it’s most often the plexi/crystal retainer fitment that seems to be the problem when WR is needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dlf Posted February 20, 2021 Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 On 2/16/2021 at 11:50 AM, jackflash said: On a tip from [mention=59902]hologramet[/mention], I purchased an insert from [mention=47967]Dlf[/mention]. What can I say, it’s amazing! Here it is now installed on my 5517. Thank you both guys! superb ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teiki75 Posted February 22, 2021 Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, jackflash said: Very nice insert! where is it from? Edited February 22, 2021 by teiki75 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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