Bracelet 7836

[cla74]

Hello friends! I would like to buy a 7836 Vietnam made well! where can i look? is there anyone who sells it used? thanks

 

 

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[alligoat]

Try Mary in the TD section, that's where I got my 7836 from.

[cla74]

OK thanks ! do you know if i can mount springbar 1675 genuine?


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[alligoat]

You'll have to work on that- I don't think the fat Rolex springbars worked w/o mods

[cla74]

so which mod do you recommend? what should be done at spring gen?


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[automatico]

"so which mod do you recommend?"

 

You can press a 2mm pin through the end of the last link on each end to allow submariner type spring bars to pass through or install proper end links.  These bracelets are made for 1.8mm spring bars.

Note...grease the pins before pressing them in the end link so they can be removed with less hassle.

 

'Proper' end links = the sheet metal hollow oval type used on vintage oyster bracelets.  You need to make sure 2mm spring bars will pass through before installing them or enlarge them first.  My 7836 bracelets from Mary had 'figure 8' type end links and they will work but are the wrong type.  'Figure 8 type' = they look like a figure 8 when viewed from the side. 

 

On genuine bracelets, figure 8 end links were fitted to 7836 bracelets with end pieces (hoods) that were not easily removable.

    From chrono-shop.net.

 

The hood is basically a hood/first link assembly and you have to spread the 'connecting link' apart to remove the hood.  Hellofamess.

     From chrono-shop.net.

 

The proper end links should be an oval shape:  

      From chrono-shop.net.  

 

I swapped my end links out for hollow oval types like oem bracelets came with, the end links I used came from an unknown brand flea market bracelet but worked fine.  The bottom side is split on them and you have to carefully spread them apart a little bit to fit the links to the Mary 7836 (or a similar bracelet) being careful not to put a crimp mark on the upper side from opening them up too far.

The Mary bracelets are basically a pretty good 7836 copy with the wrong style of hood.  If you use one as is it will be Ok but not 'proper'.  A 'proper replica' is a genuine oxymoron.  Ha!

 

Here are some images of proper 7836 bracelets:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rolex+7836+bracelet&qpvt=rolex+7836+bracelet&FORM=IGRE

 

[tomhorn]

I used the WSO 580 "fat springbar" end links with Mary's 7836 without issue.

[pezzy]

need to resize mine. any tips on how to bend out the mid links? i'm guessing a pair of fine needle nose pliers shoved into any gaps i can find?

[Ronin]

I use two lever style hand pullers, and sometimes these plastic tools you get from iFixit to fix iPhones, to unfold the links.  I then use brute finger strength to fold them closed, sometimes with the help of a wooden block to press against.  HTH

[pezzy]

the hand pullers dont bend/snap? ive just bought some tweezer size pliers. will report back.

there seems to be a tool for everything watch related. except for rolex folded links :P.

Edited July 14, 2021 by pezzy

[Nanuq]

I use the tip of a pocketknife to get it started then a fine screwdriver moving up to bigger screwdrivers.

[pezzy]

^that sounds like a good strategy. will keep that in mind.

not looking forward to doing this. i had sized a generic one recently that are held with removable pins and that was already a pita.

[pezzy]

wanted to report back for future reference. it was much easier than i expected. here's a pic of the tools i used and the finished job. i removed 2 links, one on each side. it's not perfect, but i think it was a pretty clean job. here are the steps i used.

- use the pin pusher tool to insert it in the gap between the links, like you would if you were to push out pins.
- when inserted, use the pin pusher tool to pry it up a little whilst inserting the bezel removal tool from the top view. the bezel removal tool has a fine enough tip for you to easily push it in. when inserted enough, you will have enough leverage for you to use the bezel removal tool to slightly pry it open even more.
- when there is enough space, use a pair of fine needle nose pliers (i used xuron's fine nose smooth pliers) to open it even more. at this point, it's very easy to open the mid link. you just need very little force and fine tinkering to get it open enough for you to remove the whole link. the trick here is to open it enough so that the single link you're trying to remove can move 90 degrees from the bracelet (the mid link is opened at about 30 degrees).
- to close it up, wrap the bracelet with a cloth and use a pair of stronger pliers to crimp it down.

i hope this helps anyone in the future :).

also, this was a cartel 7836 bracelet. looks like it's the same as mary's. not sure if i want to replace the figure 8 connecting link. that one looks to be a little more challenging.

 

Edited July 27, 2021 by pezzy