peteyeh Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'm looking for a great rep of a gen less than $10 grand to wear with a tuxedo. Probably a leather strap, but I will not discount what could work out nicely. How are the PAMs out there and do you feel they are too BIG for black tie? I'm looking for a piece that would be nice for a wedding or appropriate for my Blue Lodge meetings. Being 26, I am not afraid of bending traditional 'style' rules, however, I've always been more inclined to travel the convservative route. With that said, I think I need consultation. cheers, pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeeyejo Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Gold Pam Radiomir or perhaps a Cartier Santos 100? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesg Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 IWC FA Jones on black leather. It's still a big watch but has a low profile under the shirt cuffs and looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyeh Posted March 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 (edited) Oh and one more thing...recommend a strap-type/material/color. James, you are a scholar and gentleman. Edited March 16, 2008 by peteyeh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Any think simple thin and elegant on balack leather would fit, the FA Jones i think would be perfect, may be an aqua terra on black leather or even an explorer 1. How about the Glasshutte that Narikaa just posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pix Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Hi, if you want to stick to something breaking the rules, and knowing you're 26 years old, I would definitely not advise my favorite brands (VC and Patek). Hey... Does this mean I'm old now ??! I like the mentioned Radiomir but I find it too large for formal occasions. IMO. Why not a black Omega Seamaster ? Even on bracelet it's discrete...and original at the same time, and IMO fits very well for young people. And without a tie would end up breaking the rules. You can be very smart without a tie too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piratedzeus Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Omega devilles... Rolex Datejust on croc..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkerouac Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 For his wedding, my brother wore a Cartier Roadster (gen), which I thought was a wonderfully stylish watch to pair with a tux. I wouldn't go with a large diameter watch, such as a Pam or even an IWC Jones. And the Seamaster, as beautiful as it is, remains a sport watch. Some people would suggest a small, discrete watch, such as a PP Caltrava. That's a good choice, but if you want something that stands out a bit more, The Roadster is both refined and distinctive. The other watch that strikes me as a good match is the Chanel Ceramic, particularly in black. One more option: the Omega Constellation two tone. One question: What type of group is the Blue Lodge meeting that you refer to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victoria Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Pete, sometimes people forget that you can buy the most expensive watches, online for cheaper. This is true if they are vintage pieces on the old-fashioned side. That said, THE CLASSIC dinner jacket watch is the Patek Philippe Calatrava (Ref: 96). eBay Item: 140115813512 Buy It Now: US $6,750.00 (Sold) Closest Rep: Patek Calatrave ref. 5196 White SS http://www.trustytime88.com/index.php?main...e2e3fe7c893d47b More expensive, but dazzling (reminds me of Pix' Patek): http://www.trustytime88.com/index.php?main...e2e3fe7c893d47b Patek Calatrava 5053 WG White - Swiss ETA 2824 Or: http://www.pc-80108.com/pp10090-calastrava...ream-p-685.html $78.00 Heh. You can ask Josh to switch the bands to black, but with the savings you can buy a strap for peanuts at Internationalwatchman. As we've discussed on RWG before, evening wear and formal occasions like weddings demand leather straps. Black straps are de rigueur. Gold, Stainless Steel, or Platinum -- no matter. Traditional brands like Patek, Vacheron, Jaeger Le Coultre, IWCs, Langes/GBs fit beautifully. Unfortunately, there are few if any Blancpain reps around. The Blancpain Villeret is, to my mind, the most beautiful "traditional" men's watch I've ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobs1971 Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Officially the best watch under a tuxedo would be................ no watch at all If you want to 'break' rules and insist on wearing a watch at least wear something modest (no chronos) and certainly no SS bracelet. For a guy of 26 I think PP, VC and Breguet would look to old on you. As Andy already said a FA Jones would be an excellent choice. A PAM0183 or the small Railmaster on black croc would be nice choices as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 (edited) I'm looking for a great rep of a gen less than $10 grand to wear with a tuxedo. Probably a leather strap, but I will not discount what could work out nicely. How are the PAMs out there and do you feel they are too BIG for black tie? I'm looking for a piece that would be nice for a wedding or appropriate for my Blue Lodge meetings. Being 26, I am not afraid of bending traditional 'style' rules, however, I've always been more inclined to travel the convservative route. With that said, I think I need consultation. cheers, pete Edited March 16, 2008 by Homer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victoria Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Officially the best watch under a tuxedo would be................ no watch at all That is QUITE correct, Scoobs. Trust you to make that sane point. I have mentioned this in the Wristchecks, but my mother and I possess an unusual amount of hidden watches (watches with closed casefronts). They used to be popular over 50 years ago, because it was considered EXTREMELY rude for a lady to wear watches at gala or formal events. Whether we like it or not, wearing a timepiece means that we want to be aware of the time. And a watch at a formal occasion suggests you are looking at the time. Subtext: "What's your hurry? You'd rather not be here?". Having said that, that's obsolete. Even the Queen wears a platinum Cartier with diamonds to WHITE-TIE galas, let alone to less formal occasions like black tie events. I also agree that with a young man, these traditional marques might look fusty. I just can't reconcile even a lovely watch like the Omega SMP with a tux though. The Rolex Cellini Cestello is unusual enough to be low-key. Closest Rep: http://www.trustytime88.com/index.php?main...0b08b3df8327c0f Rolex Cellini Men SS Black - Manual Hand Wind Heh. $88.00. @Pix: LOLOLOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshot Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 if you really want to follow the traditional rules, wristwatches are not worn to formal occasions for most of the history of mens formal wear it was considered bad form to be looking at a watch and worrying about the time. until fairly recently the only acceptable jewelry with formal attire was your wedding band and a very nice set of matching studs and cuff links. and real cuff links, with the design on both sides, not the cheaper modern version with a design on one side and that silly rotating pin. if you are going to wear a watch with formal wear it should be the thinnest and smallest possible plain gold watch on a black strap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pix Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Mmm... Breaking the rules with a Cartier or a Patek watch... Sounds like wanting to be "rock'n roll" with Bach or Mozart... These are all great suggestions actually. But keep the age in mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobs1971 Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 JLC Master Control on black strap is also very elegant and modest. I think the gen is about EUR 4.000,-. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pix Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 As much as I like the Patek Calatrava, and think it to be a great black tie watch, I feel these watches are too much for the "I spend a lot of time in a tuxedo" crowd than for somebody more young and "with it". Bond wears the SMP or PO depending on the Bond version, and that gives the edge of somebody who is sportier but "can do black tie". I'm more in the vein of the latter, and for that reason, I'm going to mention a watch I think is under the radar of most people...the IWC 3717-2 white dialed Spitfire Chrono. 42mm but not too thick...no rotating bezel so not too sporty...on a black croc strap...dressy, but shows you have contemporary style, but a respect for tradition and roots. It says: "yes...I feel very comfortable at the Baccarat table, but not for long because I'm going to fly my Gulfstream out of here in a couple hours to go heli skiing in the alpenglow first thing in the morning" I tried this piece at the AD, and I tell you, the pics do ZERO justice to this item. It's extremely versatile...on brown croc, it says that you are ready to hunt the Nazis while you find the Ark, and on black croc it blends in with any black tie event that you are crashing using your high-roller MI5 legend. On SS bracelet...well...I can't say I like it on the bracelet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicale Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victoria Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Mmm... Breaking the rules with a Cartier or a Patek watch... Sounds like wanting to be "rock'n roll" with Bach or Mozart... :lol: Added to the hilarity is that emoticon is called "Euro". These are all great suggestions actually. But keep the age in mind... One of my friends from back home. He's 25. And rocking out with a chum. Note the watch stayed the same. P.S.: Don't worry, we all made fun of his James Bond pose, but by gum he looked good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshot Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 there actually are traditional rules for formal wear. and like most things for someone who knows the rules it can be ok to break them formal jackets should never have vents. the origin of vents in mens jackets was so that they would not bunch up when sitting a horse. and you would never wear formal wear on horseback. formal trousers should never be cuffed. cuffing trousers came from rolling them up to keep the mud off in the country. something would not need to do in formal wear. never a belt. suspenders/braces only, or trousers made with a small self fabric belt in the back or side tabs. traditionally you would not carry a wallet in formal attire. that's where the cummerbund came from. always worn with the pleats up. there are one or two pockets in a proper cummerbund, enough space to slip in the opera or theater tickets and some cash. you might be better served by treating yourself to a nice set of studs and cuff links and not wearing a watch. i have a set of art deco studs and real cufflinks in 18k gold and onyx i paid less than $300 for at an auction years ago. if you really want to impress people who know buy a real bow tie. not much more difficult to tie than your shoelaces, and clip on bow ties are an abomination. a real bow tie is something that can be spotted form across the room and will make you stand out more than a watch as someone who knows how to dress properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 if you really want to impress people who know buy a real bow tie. not much more difficult to tie than your shoelaces, and clip on bow ties are an abomination. a real bow tie is something that can be spotted form across the room and will make you stand out more than a watch as someone who knows how to dress properly I agree about the bow tie. REAL bow ties are the only thing to wear if you are going to wear one...clip ons are...well...clipped on... There are some pretty slick contemporary tie-less options these days though...that rock-up the black tie genre...just watch any awards show these days ...especially something like the Much Music or MTV awards for Rock Star black-tie chic. For a more conservative crowd though...I'm still down with my Spitfire Chrono recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshot Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 the main thing to remember about formal wear, and why it evolved to simple black and white (well, preferably midnight blue and white. black actually tends to look greenish or gray under artificial light and midnight blue actually looks blacker than black. just difficult to find these days) is that formal occasions are about the women and not the men. gowns, hair, jewelery are all designed to make the woman wearing it stand out. mens efforts to stand out too much (the black on black and the tie less looks and the chains etc) are unseemly and not very gentlemanly just because rappers or pop stars or overpaid primadonna actors do something does not make it right if someone notices or compliments anything you are wearing, before noticing your date or the woman you are standing with, you have done it all very wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellomen Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Excellent suggestion Homer!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pix Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Why not? Agreed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16a2 Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 if you really want to impress people who know buy a real bow tie. not much more difficult to tie than your shoelaces, and clip on bow ties are an abomination. a real bow tie is something that can be spotted form across the room and will make you stand out more than a watch as someone who knows how to dress properly Couldn't agree more, I was at a mess dinner last year, and a Lt. wore a fake one got caught, and was fined! Wearing a real bow tie really finished off the look, with some high quality shoes and cufflinks. For the watch, I would wear a small rose gold Breguet if anything at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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