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More Opinons Please


RobbieG

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I tried this before but the conversation turned to complications. I am considering which dress watch to get for my wedding:

- A Vacheron Partimony Traditionelle @38MM featuring the new handwind caliber 4400 with the prized Hallmark of Geneva designation (If you are not familiar with the process for this I urge you to check it out - fascinating!)...

sihhvc2.jpg

- Or a classic Patek Calatrava 5120 @35MM featuring the automatic caliber 240. I should note that I would prefer a handwind for this kind of piece, but for size reasons I would have to give that up in this case. In other words I would get the handwind 3520 model instead, but it is only 32MM and that is just too small even for and elegant dress watch IMO. 35MM is fine though...

untitled.jpg

I have most of the pros/cons of each in mind and I am leaning one way, but I wanted to get some very specific reasons of what you would choose paying special attention to not just the design, but also history of the brands, movement history and finishing, ownership network benefits etc. This is going to be a big purchase for me not only the money but it is sort of like a right of passage into something. I'm purchasing the only fine dress watch I will ever have. It isn't a watch but an heirloom.

Both are the finest of their kind and I realize one cannot give edge to any one other than opinion. There will be no fact to say one is better than the other. But I will be interested to hear your thoughts. Both watches are shown in yellow and rose gold, but I will be choosing a white gold version so disregard that...

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Care for a Noob opinion? If so: I'd go for the VC. Not because of the brand, the name or the reputation. I just think it's purer in design. The calatrava is too shiny, to glitzy. Not subtle enough for a real dress watch.

Awaiting the blows. :)

Yours kindly

Valerian

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definitely a tough call robbie, but i'm with dluddy -- go with the patek and don't look back.

it's an absolute classic, and imho every serious collector should add a patek to their collection at some point in their life for the very reason you stated -- it's an heirloom, not just a watch.

deltatahoe

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I don't know if you can, but adding a poll to this might aid your quest for a conclusive RWG opinion?

My vote goes to the VC it's clean and simple. I don't like the bezel on that PP, looks too fussy....it seems to detract my attention form the watch as a whole.

Edited by b16a2
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The Patek....However a simple Cartier Tank Louis Cartier will set you back around 5000...its solid gold with a great manual movement. Not as collectable as the Patek but still something that can be passed down generation to generation and as classic as they come. Put the money you save away for a rainy day.

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I'd have to vote for the VC as well. Not only is the syling modern and elegant, but I also prefer the brand in general to Patek. As you are no doubt aware, Vacheron Constantin is the oldest continuously opertating watchmaker and also has a history of innovation, matched only by Breguet. In fact, VC was around as a brand for a hundred years when Patek opened its doors for business. The VC says that you have an appreciation for fine craftsmanship and the art of watchmaking. Sure Patek is clearly a top shelf brand, but they're willingness to produce watches using quartz movements sullies the heritage of the brand in my opinion.

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The VC...hands-down!...(pun intended)...much more contemporary and inspires a confidence that says i'm young, successful and tasteful...the Patek, to me, is something i'd want for retirement...

and to be honest, the detail, texture, design are much more interesting...and the larger size is a big plus when compared to the smaller Patek...

either way -- congrats on your upcoming wedding...not to mention, your success in being able to afford one of these beauties...

R-

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I could not find the PP 5120 rep anywhere. I tried all the dealers. If you know where I can find one, please let me know.

The 3919 rep is the closest I could come up with, but that rep has a seconds dial at the 6:00

The Longines Altiplano comes the closest but that one (the hands) is way off from the gen.

Edited by If you see Kay
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I could not find the PP 5120 rep anywhere. I tried all the dealers. If you know where I can find one, please let me know.

The 3919 rep is the closest I could come up with, but that rep has a seconds dial at the 6:00

The Longines Altiplano comes the closest but that one (the hands) is way off from the gen.

Robbie buys gens, so don't worry about finding the rep, it probably doesn't exist ;)

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Robbie buys gens, so don't worry about finding the rep, it probably doesn't exist ;)

I have a Calatrava rep with seconds @6. And it is actually pretty close to the 5119, the updated version of the 3119.

Seconds @6 - correct for both 5119 (and 3119)

Elongated numerals - correct for 5119

36mm - correct for 5119 (3119 is 33mm)

Crystal back - correct for 5119 (3119 solid)

I show the genuine model 5119 here -

Patek5119.jpg

And two images of this rep -

CalaNewStand.jpg

CalaWrist.jpg

I show this basically to illustrate the main rep/gen difference - the small seconds dial is INSET in the rep - which is incorrect to either the 3119 or the 5119.

Also the crown on the rep is slightly thicker.

Hardly noticeable differences really unless pointed out!

To me for simplicity, elegance and sheer style, the gen Patek is very hard to beat.

I have never seen a 5120 rep either.

Edited by Bossart
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I have a Calatrava rep with seconds @6. And it is actually pretty close to the 5119, the updated version of the 3119.

Seconds @6 - correct for both 5119 (and 3119)

Elongated numerals - correct for 5119

36mm - correct for 5119 (3119 is 33mm)

Crystal back - correct for 5119 (3119 solid)

I show the genuine model 5119 here -

To me for simplicity, elegance and sheer style, the gen Patek is very hard to beat.

I have never seen a 5120 rep either.

But the 3919 rep is 40 mm diameter, wich is much bigger than the gen, at 35mm. I agree about the seconds a 6 is not quite accurate. The rep seconds hand seem a bit thicker and nubbier than the gen. The 3919 rep has narrower roman numerals, which coincidentally is quite close to the gen 5120/3520, but not the gen 3919

If there ever is a 5120/3520 rep, I'd get it. (I'd probably get called on it being a rep if anyone saw it and knows anything about PP's. The gen 5120/3520 is about $25K ) Longines has one that is quite close. I'm thinking of that one.

Piaget has a elegant simple one which is a bit more accurate in the diameter department. I might pick that one up using Watcheden/Rolex2u's $20 coupon, making the Piaget a steal at $88!

Edited by If you see Kay
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