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  1. Today
  2. The lever where the blue arrow is pointing corrects the beat error. Move in or out to correct. Barely move when you do. It will also speed up or slow down the seconds a day setting. Once the error is set, move the lever the green arrow points to. Again, very small movements.
  3. That sounds dead accurate. The 1675 GMTs were gilt until 1966, possibly '67, but the switch to matte printed dials was definitely in 1967. It would make sense if the switch was company wide vs. a general transition by model.
  4. Do some guy tested 14060? https://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2237&category_id=96&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
  5. Yuki's site is still active. You heard he was retiring? https://www.yukiwatch.com/ETA*Submariner-5513-gloss-dial-p595789838
  6. Yesterday
  7. DD = Dangdong and are now considered the best option. SH less quality. Noob is usually poor quality and less compatible with Gen parts. That is my experience with their 32xx movements anyways. I'll defer to Freddy333 w/r/t the 4130. Here is a good comparison of the 3xxx's which I am guessing translates to 41xx to some degree:
  8. Yep, sites are still online in both Ruby/Minh's cases, but zero comm's or order fulfillment's. 🤷‍♂️
  9. Thanks [emoji120] and YES [emoji16] "depth gilt" ... "real gilt" [emoji848] I guess the best to describe those specific dials would be "negative-relief gilt" as the gilt parts are recessed from the black coat ... but English is not my native language so maybe I'm not certain ... mine got 2 black coats over the polished copper dial plate then 1 white coat for the markers ... finish is 3 coats of nitrocellulosic varnish like they used in the 60ies ... lume is low green glow or just dead lume reactive to UV light Envoyé de mon moto g(9) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. so what is the difference between DD4131 and SH 4131 and i guess Noob 4131
  11. No idea on any Vietnam crackdowns, but MQ's site is still online.
  12. Anyone know if there has been similar crack downs with the trusted parts suppliers? Another end-of-an-era??? -Ruby, site login disabled and “suspect” replacement site— well…seems suspect. -MinhQ , unresponsive as well. -Yuki retired. -Phong still up/around from US, but selection is hit or miss and $$$$.
  13. Nice. Did you make those? I reached out to MQ/Minh who seems to list/differentiate print gilt from ‘depth’ gilt. Assuming by depth they mean ‘relief/real’.
  14. Back for limited service. Trying not to overload myself. 

  15. Last week
  16. not that easy to get a real-gilt dial ... at the least for a fair price [emoji848] ... nevertheless film-free decal method is a way to make nice real gilt dials ... as long as you have a good control of the process ... here's an example ... all real-gilt except for the depth which is silver printed ... another one ... all real gilt except for the "sub aqua" which is gold printed ... Envoyé de mon moto g(9) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  17. I believe the last gilt Subs were produced in 1966. But, as with all things Rolex, I do not think anyone (outside Rolex) knows for certain.
  18. I'd be interested to know as well. I love the look of a gilt dial, but I haven't seen a replica one that is good enough.
  19. There should be a few threads detailing my Bond Sub build from 2008-9 (including macros of the finished dial/handset before casing & the process I used to add 'patina'), but I cannot seem to find them. However, I found these pics in my archives from that build that may help as a guide --
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