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After some deliberation in the smoking room, we have decided that a new moderator is needed in view of the opening up of the sales section and new sales rules. We decided that we needed a dedicated someone who would patrol the area with vigilance when Mike and I are high on the whiskey and delirious from the cigar smoke inhaled. We have hence added member Kernow, a mostly good guy sometimes prone to fits of drunken violence and drug induced rages, but mostly a good guy ahem. Please join me in welcoming the latest power ranger! (orange polka dotted suit) @Kernow, you're obligated to buy the next round for us all before your official duty begins! @nanuq@mike on a bike Message crafted while smacking a sleeping friend with a bluefin tuna and fending off a hungry raccoon.

I agree! I'm very happy that I have my well-worn seat at the bar--next to so many kind, bright minds

Dial progress. After the third varnish layer. [emoji632]

Old Cartel, simple beater

+1. The gen is a masterpiece. Only the Z comes any close to that. I personally wouldn't go for a CW since it's too off. It has a few nice touches but nothing that could impress me too much in comparison to the Z or let alone the gen.

I owned the gen, the Zorro GP and yes I saw and handled the c&w. The c&w is nowhere close to gen. It is a nice watch yes. But given the wrong tachy width and color, and the position of the date window, as well as the subdial finishings, I would not go so far as to say it's "very close to gen". It does however look nice on its own! The zorro gp is closer to gen in my opinion than the c&w model. Message crafted while smacking a sleeping friend with a bluefin tuna and fending off a hungry raccoon.

MBK dial is good, very accurate IMHO, my cartel dial instead was a fantasy dial .. because RA have shipper yesterday from France, but the Poste Italiane are a risk..not for the custom but because there are many robbers.. now the watch have almost 1700 euro in work and part.

I'd go for the gen 3135. With the Yuki, you might still run into problems with time. Whereas the 3135 will run as it should for a long time and will be an easy service IF something happens. Also comparing the gen at $1750 (with date disc added) and a serviced Yuki at $1200, I think the extra $500 make sense.

If you get one from BK, make sure the glass part is secure, and won't come off. If its loose, apply a little adhesive.

I so want 233/270. I cant pull off a 47mm Fiddy but love the dome so these would really fit the bill. Keep on asking

Amazing shot and watch! But where is the crystal?

Last 29mm 6538 dial. [emoji632]

"I'm curious about these two:- (Q1) 4...cheapo China movement or quality swiss etc movement (Q2) 5...genuine watch or replica (Q3) If it's purely a service, no parts needed, and assuming any rep movements are built to a reasonable standard so they're as easy to reassemble as a gen, why would the time to do the service vary? (Q4) Or are you varying the charge for the same amount of work to match expectations of gen and rep owners?" My posts are still coming up under the wrong name but I am still 'automatico'...far as I know. Addressing Q1 & Q3...It takes longer to service 'China junk' than swiss Eta etc. Why? Because much the CJ is basically hard to work on. Date works on Miyota clones (NN, DG etc) are a pain for instance and the 3/4 plate construction is a real hassle. They are made to sell, not to work on. I have had so many apart that I am pretty fast on them but still do not like to work on them at all. Imho the Seagull ST16 'magic lever' Miyota clone is the best of the bunch and the tried and true Seagull ST6/ST6Date is also OK but the date works are somewhat fragile. The ST6 is made in the traditional manner with the autowind assembly screwed to a basic hand wind movement. The Miyota clones and ST16 are 'integrated construction' with the autowind parts under the same plate that covers the train wheels. The ST16 uses the Seiko type 'magic lever' type autowind device where the NN, DG etc use a reverser. The Asian etaclones (2824/36) are better but need c/o more often than not when new because of poor QC and storage/assembly conditions, most parts are relatively hard to get. Swiss Eta 2824\36 are relatively easy to work on and parts are easy to get. Addressing Q2 & Q4...Many repair guys charge more for higher grade movements depending on price and availability of movement parts. Flip a DG pallet fork into oblivion and you are out $1 or maybe nothing for a replacement...flip a rolex 1570 pallet fork and you are out $100. Kill a DG hairspring and you are out $5 for a 'balance complete' from another member...kill a rolex 1570 hairspring and you are out $350 to $500 for a 'balance complete' from a seller who has you by the short hairs. You are taking much more of a risk when working on expensive watches/movements. It is easier to satisfy someone with a NN/DG/Seagull movement than a swiss Eta, omega, rolex etc...at least it should be in the real world if the NN/DG/Seagull owner understands what they have.