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It is worse. The 3135 and 3135 clone fit loosely in the case. You have use really long movement tabs and bend them in a weird shape to secure the movement in the case. The JF is much better in this regard plus it is engraved between the lugs. I have this same version in transit to me. After owning 3 of these JF's and going crazy on one build upgrading damn near everything from the dial, crystal and insert, crown etc.., I have found that for me, the only upgrades this needs is a gen datewheel and a gen insert. Everything else is good enough for me.

Finally got some blank dials,ready for my first try Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

That is almost $2000 over retail. I will wait. I hope this one fills the spot I have for it. Dont want too drop that much. I might sale my 116610 and my 116710. Those are all I have been wearing since I finished them. Or I might break up a bunch of watches or sale them. I have crazy builds. All rolex and all rolex minus midcases. My 16610LV which is all rolex but the phong midcase case, my 1680 which is all rolex but the phong mid case and I just finished a 16610 U serial number all Rolex. I think if I brake them up or sale them as is I might have enough to cover the sea dweller with out going into my bank account. Heck just in movements that is 2X3135's and one 1570. Then LV dial and LV full bezel. Parting it might be the way too go. Man I hate getting bit by the rolex bug. Last time I did this I had my AD hunt for a 2000 16610 for nostalgic reasons and I over paid! Then my wife's Yachtmaster. Before I do anything I will wear the ARF for a few too see if I like it. Doing my math you paid a lot over retail. Here in the USA the 122660 is $11,350. I put $1000 down to order it. Now if you paid 16,500 AUD at an exchange rate of .78 AUD to 1 USD that make is $12,926 USD. So $1576 dollars over retail. My AD is telling me to give them an extra $2000 and they will have it quick. That is bad form. I would never. I remember my Porsche dealer trying too do that for my 911 turbo. They wanted $15,000 over sticker and I would get it. I drove to the next state PA which had a lot less people and brought it there and I drive it to my local to get the free oil changes! It makes me sick when they try to screw us. They are making crazy money on us already. (I'm back talking about Rolex, although Porsche does too!) It is just greed to try too milk an extra $2000 out of us!

Here’s my gen SD4k Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Scotch?! Never heard of it guv!! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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Match the exact number on rehaut and between lugs

https://media.giphy.com/media/eKDp7xvUdbCrC/giphy.gif Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Time for some vitamin D for the old timer

Today

Rivet watch on Zeppelin strap Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

I wanted too add a few things here. From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down. This is very normal on a REAL Rolex. That is why the clicks are on springs. It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement. On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier. Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect. If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all. This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert. Back to the ARF. The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod. If you want them duller then make them duller. Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town. I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600. Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there. History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub. Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable. Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case! Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down. Then the bracelet! They will use 904 and have that down. So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP. That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit. LOL. I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it. I have the ETA2824 for it already. I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down. The ARF so far was the closest I have seen. There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial. When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial. I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial. But the red popped out. Very RED. But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look. So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it. I am dying to know. I dont know anyone who has the real one. But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same. So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet. The movement with a new ETA will last for years. The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing. I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be. I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands. Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

Now you've got me hooked too! What a hoot.

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