cjjoyce1

I don't know as much about this kind of thing as I should as someone starting this thread, however. . . Is it possible that we could all be unwitting accomplices in the recent DDoS attacks on the various forums and dealer sites? We all tend to wander about between the various Gen and Rep forums, right (c'mon, admit it we all do it)? Could we be infected with botnets that someone among us (Anonymous is everywhere. They are Legion. Expect them.) is having their little game? It appears a gen forum is now under attack - All you IT guru's out there - what say you?

OOoooOOooHHhh yeah! And now my Franken 5512 has a Gen insert on the way! @ Olivax - When you say "with Asian movement" Do you mean with ETA clone, or 21j? The ETA may not transplant into the case if its a 21j case. The sandwich of Dial, spacer, movement may not allow the stem to align properly anymore. As far as the 25-116 goes. . . *paging Blix

You know Ray, because of this issue, I'm surprised Rolex didn't invent SEL's years before they did. I fly with a guy who has a 1675 that's nearly as old as I am that's 100% untouched original. His end links are so schmushed and ill fitting it's embarassing. The hollow end links are incredibly easy to bend, which is bad on one hand, but good in that you can easily tweak them on the other. Let's see more of that beauty!

Naw, I just didn't want you to feel neglected

900.00 in a face to face deal - he's local to me. And I know you have a full size for sale, Jason - it's just outside my wallet's reach right now, unfortunately. I wouldn't hesitate to do business with you again!

Yeah, I knew it was a 2551, not a 2531. I'm thinking about it for a gift. Thanks, Bro

Wow! This is a complex problem. You are also forgetting the issue you will run into with the bracelet end piece being in a similar position. Although if you are using the bracelet in the above pics with the new end links - nevermind One possible solution would be to use the existing end link hoops as supports for new hoops to be soldered on. This would require con-caving the existing hoops, but using the case holes as your guide, you can see it doesn't necessarily require destroying them in the process. If you later decided to use them on another project or sell them, you could remove the added hoops and re-broach the link hoops.

Hey guys I need your collective help. Sometimes we look at reps so much when we see a gen, our eyes think we see "tells". Hands look right, insert and pearl look good, HE valve placement o.k. - but since making my franken 5512, I see real stuff and go - naawww can't be. https://picasaweb.google.com/marshall.pangkey/OmegaSeamaster#5589582660630044194

The position in the movement plate for the stem hole is not quite the same. The sandwich of dial, spacer, and movement can make the stem hole microns off from center on the tube. Because of the slight flexibility of the stem, it'll work.

I was asked what the difference between these two springs where. I finally had a chance to mic these out and here is what I found Cartel Spring ID = 31.00mm OD = 34.95mm Thickness = .15mm Clark Spring ID = 31.25mm OD = 35.25mm Thickness = .17mm

Gen crystal

PM Blix. I know for a fact he scored one recently in a large lot of Gen crystals he bought. I don't think he needs that particular one.

I tried that too and it helped a bit, but not satisfactorily in my case. I have heard others though, who have had good luck doing that so it's still a good try-it-first option.

One of the common things I've read in all the threads about these is people complaining about loose bezels - to the point where some have even said theirs just pops off easily almost un-commanded. I had one of these too. I decided to take a chance and get one of the Clark 5513 springs. It was only $11.00 plus a few more in shipping, what the heck. Best thing I've done yet! Not only is my bezel properly tight now, but in order to rotate it easily, I have to push down on it while turning! If you have the same problem, this may be good news for you!

That's sorta what I thought, but that little groove really got me thinking. I even have a nylon gasket from god-knows-what that fits in the groove, too. With a bit of work the rep crystal snugs over it.

Can any experts out there tell me if the gen 5512/5513/1680's had some sort of gasket between the crystal and case? I've noticed looking at the case profile with the crystal off that there is a lip around the top of the rehaut or rather a groove cut in the case. It would appear to be a space where a gasket of some sort would live. So in cutaway view you would have retaining ring, crystal, gasket, case. It would seem to make sense as without some sort of glue or sealant I can't imagine a pressure fit ring and crystal would be watertight to 200m-600ft, but then again I am often wrong!

HEY! Another "puffy" lume dial! LOVE IT!~ I got the same grainy matte finish by applying Krylon Workable Fixatif (#1306) on the dial before re-luming and after. It's available at any art supply place and is for protecting pencil, and pastel drawings from smudging. By applying it first, any screw-up with the lume or coloration later can be removed without harming the dial.

It may also be helpful to post the chart from the Rolex manual btocamelo had up in your thread on RG. It shows both the tubes and crowns in their profiles with dimensions. The 702 has a slightly lower profile height than the 703, and has a more angular base. http://repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=130128

Well duh. . . but when the latest enumerations are touted as "All Parts Interchangeable with the Genuine . . ." One would figure at least somthing besides the crystal and bezel insert would fit Then again. . . .

Notice the course threads and flatter bottom of the 702. This must be what the new 5512/5513/1680 cases are tapped for. I knew I had to countersink the case for the gen tube, but the 703 tube I got doesn't go in beyond a turn or two, have to re-tap the case. . . no wonder.

+1 If you're going to replace the crown, get a tube also. I got what was offered as a 703 crown, but was probably a 704 (if it was, in fact, a gen - see Blix's thread) and it didn't fit the rep tube on my 5512 at all. Slid right over the tube. Inside diameter much larger than the rep.

Been lurking this thread with interest. Great info here. I bought a "Gen" 703 from jewelerstools. After the info from this thread, I immediately could say it definitely was NOT a 703, but couldn't rule out a 704 (not crimped metal - machined solid piece). I contacted them about it not being a gen 703 as advertised with my reasoning why, and have never gotten a reply/refund/"seller has decided to cancel this transaction" faster in my life! The money was in my PP account before I could even go WTF? Also, Blix, just for giggles before I packed it up to send back, I tried putting on my 5512 I got from jsuperman17 on RG. It didn't fit the rep tube - slipped right over the tube without even hitting the threads. Very different inside diameters. (pc12drvr)