highoeyazmuhudee

buy a black bay on the used market ~$2500, (essentially new $1000 -$1500 off retail) youre looking at 20-30 years for ROI. dont think they'll go much cheaper than this and will only increase from that plateau price. that ceramic no date sub is not special enough, all it has going for it is the word rolex on the dial (yeah, im sure the movement is great) on the second hand market theyre not much of a discount look at the resale value of the 14060 maybe +$1000 return from 20 years ago, they can be had for $3500-$4500 two line NON COSC so maybe buy a vintage no date sub, 14060 which will also continue to increase in price as it becomes a quaint tool watch compared to the bulky ceramic bezel no date sub. the 14060 is this generations plastic dome 5513 its value will probably out pace a black bay, but buying a used tudor BB wouldnt be a bad choice either, as i said, great classic style, great value int he long term will hold its value and increase

blackbay FTW vintage style and value

its a great effort on your part justin is it perfect? damn close. youre right in saying it should satisfy 90% (or more) of the people here. you offer excellent value and i would have no problem using your engraving service.

yikes

WSO 580s are a good buy I ended up getting gen 580s, that i never actually used HAH

the ORIGINAL 198 case back!

well the bezel insert looks good

i saw it and liked it, setting crown looks a little awkward though

you can tell its mbk case: valve caseback and bezel teeth are always cut too deep

no tudor catalog? i picked up some when the black bay blue came out and they are much nicer books than the rolex ones i also took

really nice build!

let me google that for you http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/61801-ETA-2836-2-vs-Clone-how-to-tell-quot-Swiss-quot-from-quot-Asian-quot

two wrists, two watches if you dont want to appear strange, BIG CROWN 100%

vaseline might break down the plastic over time since its petroleum based, i would use a silicone based grease preferably, like the gasket sealant stuff. and yes hypo cement if you have to glue it in. still messy stuff because of the long threads that happen after dabbing, but it can be rolled away with your finger

i was waiting to hear the parts list cause it was amazing

whats the glue for exactly? does it not pressure fit properly and youre trying to 'seal' it?

they are very similar in appearance, "swiss" has a more refined finish with brushed parts and parts being precisely machined. i have never had problems with genuine etas. every asian copy ive had has had various problems either right away or eventually. some people will say a service is a cure all, but that doesnt make up for poorly machined parts. given the choice i would get the eta produced version whether its made in asia with their machinery under their guidance or actually made in switzerland over a GZ made eta or otherwise. there are also swiss eta copies offered by some dealers, selling sellita movements, i would also choose these over the eta copies made by non affiliated chinese factories. even the seagul eta copy isnt quite there yet.

i think he meant friction washer, which you give a slight bend to before installing, so it kind of acts like a spring, you push down on the bezel ring and turn, release the hand pressure and it should "lock" with the tension being exerted. a lot of people install them without a slight bend,

was thinking the same thing about the lug bevels contour and thickness is all wrong

very nice!

its hard to achieve a factory finish without special equipment like a lapping machine even working from 320 grit to 12000 grit , polishing compound and diamond paste on a buffing wheel, then some cape cod or mothers polish i can NOT gain that factory flawless polish. im sure there is also some learning and technique required to also get it right. mostly get rid of all deep marks from the beginning around the 300-600 grit phase

ingod?

great job, very nice overall, i like it ditch the mbw 93150 however

very cool indeed

tudor case looks like phong