kbh

Even if you went to Ghuanzhou and met a trusted dealer as a guide, he wouldn't be able to get you into a replica factory. That's like asking where a cocaine processing factory in Columbia is.

That's too funny. That music would make me cry if I had to listen to it.

He was probably driven crazy by all the members who bought reps and complained that they weren't 100% like their gen counterparts. I've always felt that I'd end up committing suicide if I ever got into the rep trade on the forums.

Use the existing as long as it's long enough.

From reading the above posts it would seem that the early 17j were non-hacking and the later 21j one were hacking.

I'm not sure about the 21 or 17j but I think they made both. They don't hack and the only way I stop the movement is by turning the minute hand slightly backwards. That's normal but it should not start actually running in reverse for more than a couple seconds.

No, I just can no longer access his eBay stores.

I bought the same item from two of his eBay stores, not knowing they were the same thing, and they both sucked. When I tried to send them back he just kept making excuses so I left him negative feedback. Now I'm banned from 2 of his 3 his sites. Yep, Mr Slimeball is appropriate.

The most expensive rep Milguass with Swiss ETA shouldn't cost more than $250 max. Same watch with Asian clone movement around $200. Asian 21j even less. And yes sapphire is scratch proof.

I don't know much about that model but it sure looks sweet to me. In fact beyond sweet, awesome.

Rolex has for many years made those "light an flimsy" bracelets from the Jubilee to the Oyster. Most of these will last 20, 30, 40 years. To me it's one of Rolex's strong points, not weaknesses. Other than the last few years, watches were meant to be unobtrusive, not giant pieces of bling. And Rolex made watch bands that were comfortable, sleek and stylish that could be passed on from one generation to the next. They were lightweight engineering marvels. I'm currently wearing a gen jubilee on a 1980's DJ and unlike my Panerai, it seems to disappear on my wrist until I want to see the time.

You guys are looking at this all wrong. It doesn't feel "light and flimsy", it feels more comfortable.

Same as fixing it on any other ETA movement. Any watch repair guy could do it.

I'd say the dealer isn't losing anything here. What do you want him to do? He QC'd it and it's still not perfect. He's said he'd fix it. That how it works around here. Bet it was a Asian clone.................

Yeah, I'm not seeing anything wrong with the DW installation. Time for a professional look see.

actually, I just looked the other picture you just posted and first thing I noticed is the date is out of place and so is the spring. Notice where the date is in relation to the stem.

Then the only suggestion I have it to take the DW back off and watch to see that the date change mechanism is doing when you wind the date over. It should slowly go round and become spring wound right before snapping over at 12. It's the thing with the brass gear towards the bottom with a silver octopus sticking out. As that goes around the leg sticking up snaps the date over. The silver rectangular kind of piece to the right has the click spring attached that should be between the date wheel gears.

One thing you should be aware of on the Milgauss. If you buy the 21j movement it is a low beat movement and that becomes very noticeable with the long and heavy Milgauss second hand. Lot's of people have complained about stuttering second hand with 21j so I'd suggest going with the 2836 clone or Swiss movement. Most dealers all supply the same thing when you specify the same quality from them. I'd just ask for the best quality or do a lot a reading and research. You can't go wrong with getting your first rep from Joshua at Perfect Clones. He's easy to deal with, has mostly all top quality, and he's great for warranty if you have a problem.

When you change it by the stem does it kind of snap from one date to the next or is it kind of sloppy? The most likely cause if it's sloppy is that the date wheel is sitting on top of the click spring instead of the click spring being in between the teeth on the date wheel. The spring is roughly at 4 on the dial and if it's not in place the date change mechanism will be sitting under the gear on the date wheel and it won't engage. Changing the date by the stem occurs on the other side of the dial so it wouldn't be affected as much. I hope that makes sense.

I'd personally opt for servicing a Swiss movement. Makes more sense cost wise and quality wise.

By the way, on my previous post I was meaning dial spacer ring between the dial and movement. I still think that could be the problem if you used the ETA dial spacer with a DG movement. My last post wasn't very clear.

They are different sizes, btw.

Did you use the right movement ring on the dial? I always thought most of the cases were interchangeable for Swiss and Asian.

Just by looking at the rotor you can see it's ETA shape. Most likely a broken clone. I don't see the point of this video. I could even do that. If he was putting it back together i"d be impressed.

I've never seen a rep Sub dial that has the indented box around the edge of the date window.