kbh

The worst part to me is the pearl being off center and just wrong in general.

No....... I tried before settling on frankens.

Your first glaring error is to put AR on a Rolex tool watch. Why would you do that when the gen doesn't have it? Other than that, most newer Rolex's don't have a lot of interchangeable parts with gens and reps. And the newer parts either are not readily available or are way too expensive. Spare parts for frankens are usually left overs from servicing, parted out dead watches, or smaller items such as crown/tubes, crystals,etc.

The good old days when you could put them together for about $400 - $500 plus the cost of a gen bracelet. A nice all gen but the movement Datejust was less than $800.

SpeedyG, who has a section on RepGeek is from West Chicago. "SpeedyGwatch(at)Gmail.com"

It's held in by a small screw. Just unloosen it until the crown comes out. Don't take the screw all the way out.

Strange that if an item is mispriced in a grocery store and you take it to the register they are obligated by law to sell it at the price marked. Here you have a legal contract with offer, acceptance, and consideration, all the items necessary for enforcement of a contract and they can cancel it at will. A good lawyer would have his Ipad.

I bought one of the 32gb thru PayPal. It's definitely a Sears Web Site since I couldn't remember my previous password and had to get an e-mail from them to re-set it. Had live chat and everything. Certainly a phishing site wouldn't be that complicated.

How about a link. I'm not seeing it at Sears.com

I think Chrono Shop's prices are pretty outrageous. Almost $900 for a DJ case set..........I've never paid over $300 in the past. Have prices really gotten that high? It would make my 3 frankens quite valuable. http://www.chrono-shop.fr/54-1978-rolex-datejust-complet-case-16030.html Also. Love your build. I've never been a fan of the machine turned bezels, but that one looks great.

Sounds like the anti-reversing gear is letting the rotor unwind. It's a common problem with A7750's and normally it's an easy fix. Just a quick remove, clean and oil of a couple of parts.

Hehehehe! I got one....

Wouldn't the biggest problem be the hairspring. Rolex uses a non magnetic hairspring as I recall.

It certainly won't affect the oil in the movement and I honestly doubt if it could hurt an o-ring. The only downside I can think off is if the tube doesn't have an o-ring inside it could let in moisture if left open in an area of high humidity.

According to BK, who is quite the expert on this, the Watchmaterial pearl paired with the JO insert is what he likes the best. You do have to widen the hole for the pearl to fit, though.

I'm even worse. I let it run out of power and snipped it off with finger nail clippers. There is a tutorial around here someplace showing the correct way, I believe.

They can be fitted as an overlay to an existing date wheel. They can't be used as an actual date wheel though.

Does it really matter. I've got several gen DJ's and several that have had the crystal replaced with aftermarket crystals and they are either the same or extremely close, I've never noticed the difference.

Plus crown guards are off and he valve is wrong. SSD's are long gone unless you find one used.

Unfortunately that one only explains how to enlarge the existing holes. Not how to make completely new holes.

It can be done, just not very professionally. Here's a picture and you can see the bending of the hands and even the slight indent at the center of the dial. It actually looks pretty good until you put it under a magnifier. Anyone that wants to try this I would strongly suggest you take out the crystal first and install the hands from the front with the movement installed, since there is a lot of bending and fitting. When it works without any of the hands hanging up on markers or each other, then re-install the crystal. Also, the hand is a red one that I re-painted.

You really need a set of hands with longer tubes to make it work properly. Or you need to install taller canon pinion and the other assorted wheels to have room for the date wheel overlay. Here's a post I made on another forum: I was trying to explain to a member why it's next to impossible to use a standard 2893-2 ETA GMT movement in a Rolex rep. Actually any rep that doesn't use a standard ETA date wheel. I thought it may be of interest to some of the modders here so I will repost my reply to him: I thought it would be easiest to explain the problem with a couple of pictures. Notice the GMT gears on the right of the movement and how high they sit. The brass gear is about dead even with the date wheel. That date wheel would normally have the numbers painted on it but they have been sanded down for when I previously put a DW overlay on it. Now, on the other picture you will see how wide the Rolex DW overlay is, where it actually covers the gear. When you raise the overlay to where there is no conflict with either that wheel or the bottom of the dial, then you no longer have enough room to properly fit the GMT hand over the dial. Also, if you look at the GMT hand you'll see it has to be able to pass the dial markers, which are raised rather significantly on a Rolex dial. Remember, the GMT hand is the first to go on the dial. It would be much easier if it used the same configuration as Rolex with the GMT as the second hand in the stack. So, as I said before, without installing the tallest set of canon pin, GMT wheel, etc that ETA makes, you will have an extremely difficult time getting it all to work properly. This movement can be modified into a 2892-2 easily and works fine in a watch such as a Sub, SD, etc. It just requires removal of the GMT gear set. Also the reason that 2836-2 is so much more popular for reps is that the canon pin set is already taller because of the day wheel, which is removed for the addition of the GMT module or for general use in watches that need an overlay. Hope this helps explain it better.

That's a beaut. A special occasion Rolex.

Great April Fool's Day post.