kbh

Raffles-time or Rouhelena on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Swiss-ETA-2836-2-Movement-DAY-GMT-function-/320836008876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab350fbac

I've been buying from Josh for a long time but he's acting more and more like a scam site. Seems like every new watch he advertises is now "1:1, made from gen". I personally think that he and all the other dealers that are now doing this should be put on probation until they quit with all the lying and B. S. Forums were founded to stop this kind of nonsense from dealers.

Swapping the same movement you can use the old stem and you should have a dial spacer in place when you take the dial off the old movement. You'll see how it works.

Yes, it's a dial spacer.

Seems that BK used the 2.7 on his WM Subs as I recall. Not sure what he's using on his TWB but I know there's a post in his section about it somewhere. Maybe RG or here?

If you've ever seen them test for gold, they generally just rub the link against a very fine sandpaper type of paper and then use different types or grades of liquid (I believe acids) to see which makes the gold disappear. By seeing which one dissolves the gold, they can tell the carat. So, if they don't get under the gold plate, they won't know anything about the total gold content. That would be done by weighing it vs. water displacement. Or maybe some fancier new methods, of course. I'm certainly not a jeweler or an expert. .

Yeah, that crown in the logo looks pretty bad to me. The base is way too circular.

CLS does this if you're in the US. http://www.clswatch.info/CLS/services.html

That's a TW Sub isn't it. Note the solid link bracelet.

It's always seemed to me that as long as you use the dial spacer that comes with the movement any of the 28xx movements are interchangeable. I've assumed they are all sized for the same crown and stem spacing in the case. Either that or "ignorance is bliss", cause I've swapped a lot of those movements around without any problems. Any of the experts have info or opinion on this theory?

The typical rep bezel is taller and more angular than a gen, which is flatter and at least looks wider. I've never actually measured one.

Fake but if you put the right second hand on it would be much harder to tell.

You might also just try unscrewing the stem and put a small dap of 2 part epoxy on it and then don't screw it all the way into the crown. Leave it overnight and it should work. I've done it before and it worked fine until I could replace it with the proper length. I don't know about it being a long term fix. It may work for days or maybe for years.

I think you may be going under the assumption that all rep cases are drilled in the same position and that a gen bracelet would fit perfectly on all rep cases. You may be disappointed.

http://www.rwgforum.com/topic/86779-the-birth-of-a-franken-pt-i/page__hl__birth%20of%20a%20franken Take note that while he uses the 2834-2 date wheel on the 2824-2 movement, the 2836-2 is the same. Either movement will actually work, though. I've used both.

Maybe I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time). The first pictures sure looked way more "wokky" than my SSD. But, that is the same serial number as on my v1. I could have sworn that Jackjo or one of the modders had said ealier that those Polizia di Stato models were a different case back when the SSD's became scarce. Sorry about the mix up.

That model has nothing to do with an SSD, either v1 or 2. Let's not confuse the folks here.

I like what he says here: Other Asian sellers use thin stainless steel which tends to fall apart in a short time from the pressure of daily wear and you can end up losing your expensive watch. I'm not seeing how these have anything to do with holding the watch and bracelet together. Just spacers is all they are.

Direct swap for ETA or clone 2824-2.

I'd almost bet that they are the same size case and TS has it wrong in his ad. I'd also almost bet that they are both mineral crystal at that price. I'd personally buy from TS as they have a somewhat better reputation than WE. Since you're looking for a $20,000 solid gold Rolex at the lowest price point, I doubt if it matters which one. Whichever one you like the most. They'll both have the same 21j movement.

The 4th gen had them perfect from what I could see. Also, from what I remember of the original 5th gen they were in the right position but the valve was the wrong size.

They just look like screw heads. They are almost surely like other Omegas with push pins. Does the inside of the link have a small arrow on it? That would be the way they are installed/removed.

It's an older gen. My mid sized Tugaris below has the same movement. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the movement.

It's because those gen Pams have standard ETA movements in most of them. Making the watch is easy. Fitting in a proper movement is the difficult part. And, since Rolex uses proprietary movements, it's not so simple to replicate them 1:1. But, there are lots of excellent Rolex reps, such as the DJ and Explorer models to name a couple.

So you expect the Chinese movement companies to engineer and build a hugely expensive brand new chrono movement just you you can get a replica Daytona with the proper sub dial spacings? I somehow don't see that happening but we can all hold onto the dream.