kbh

I've been following this since my ETA powered SSD has developed the problem of the rotor spinning when winding unless I hold it horizontal. When Googling Lubeta V105 I came across another post where a member on another forum used Kent Dry Lube on his reversers and it worked great. So I tracked that down and it's a PTFE (Teflon) based spray lube. After checking out a couple of different spray lubes in my garage I found Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant had pretty interesting qualities. Main ingredients are: Lubricating Oil (64742-47-, Glycol Ether (25498-49-1), Soybean Oil Esters (Proprietary), Corrosion Inhibitors (Proprietary), PTFE/BN Colloid (9002-84-0/10043-11-5) and Carbon Dioxide (124-38-9). The lubricating oil is a very light "vanishing oil" or "flash lubricant" The glycol and soybean oil esters, are low VOC solvents that help clean and evaporate, and the main ingredient is colloidal PTFE. With a little corrosion inhibitor for good measure. Anyway, call me crazy but I gave it a try. Sprayed a little into a container and dipped a couple of small drops onto the reversers with a toothpick. Then wound it a little to move it all around the insides and surprise, surprise, the reversers worked like new. I let it finish drying and closed it up. Now when I wind the watch laying flat on the crystal the rotor doesn't move. Don't know about long term but as of this morning, a day later, it's still working just fine. By the way, normally I would have washed them in the sonic bath an lubed them with Moebius 9010.

Yep that's what I see on 2893. I guess they upgraded the 2824 chart to match. Now the question is, if you're too cheap to replace them, what's better, cleaning and not oiling or cleaning and oiling? I've found that with cleaning they'll usually work again but maybe that's not the best long term solution.

Looking at the ETA oiling charts, I found the 2893 shows not to oil them and the 2824/26 shows to oil them. 2893 - Do not wash. If part is very dirty or rusty it should be exchanged for an original part which is lubricated and delivered by ETA SA. 2824/36 - shows to lubricate them with fine oil (Moebius 9010)

Only in south Florida:

NIce job. You're my new idol!

The two tones were about $1200 as I recall. My ex bought me a TT OysterQuartz Dj in Grand Cayman on vacation for about that in 1977. You could buy a SS Daytona for about $700 since they were very poor sellers.

Just thought I'd mention that I just got around to re-installing that Novadiac spring in a movement I was working on. After trying for several hours with no joy before, it took me less than 30 seconds to install it with my toothpick tool. Thanks Ssteel for that tip.

It's normally glued on with a pliable type of cement that's pretty easy to get off. Like rubber cement. Just be careful not to bend the overlay. Try prying it off with a razor blade.

Awesome!! Forgot to ask, what's the movement?

The easiest and first option is to use a crystal press and some pressure and make sure the crystal and gasket was all the way seated. The correct way is to replace the gasket and re seat the crystal. The incorrect way is to use Ultra violet crystal glue and re seat the crystal with the existing gasket. Usually works but can get messy.

Just be aware that the gen tube needs to be countersunk at the shoulder of the hole for proper fit of the tube

Good crown and tube info: http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d89.html 24-700 was gen spec but they have often been replaced at the factory with later 7mm crowns, so it's not critical. Clark's T21 is a very nice crystal but I'm not familiar with the Cartel so I can't help.

I grew up in South Florida back in the 70's and 80's when the "Cocaine Cowboys" ran the place. There's not much I haven't seem when it comes to contraband importation. Maybe that's why I'm drawn to counterfeit watches..

Didn't bother me in the least. Been there, done most of that myself.....

Or, take it out in 15 minutes and see if any water is inside the case. If you hook up a hose and open the hose bib, the pressure immediately goes up to about 60 or 70 pounds (roughly 4 to almost 5 atm) Then close the hose bib and let it sit. It will then hold pressure. If there's any large leak it will show immediately on the pressure gauge. If not you're probably good to go. Make sure you take the insides and put them outside before you test it though.

You could do it simpler but I also put in a Schrader valve so I can use a compressor or even a bicycle pump to increase the pressure, although I usually figure if it can stand my household pressure for 15 to 30 minutes, I'm not going to worry about it in the pool or beach. I'm a firm believer that wet testing it much more accurate than those dry testers, although it does require taking the movement out of the case. Also, if you know what your house pressure is you don't even need the pressure gauge. It would be very simple to make one with nothing more than a hose bib and a piece of pipe When you fill up the pipe with water and pressurize it, it's amazing how fast the pressure goes down if there's even a small leak.

I made a little 3" PVC tube with a hose bib on it and a pressure gauge. My house pressure is always between 60 and 70 pounds and I just put the empty case in and pressurize it to the 4 to 5 atm and let it sit for 15 minutes. Never had one fail on me that passed that test for swimming, boating skin diving (but not Scuba). It's a simple and easy to make home tester.

I just made a wooden one with a toothpick. Although I haven't used it to re-install a jewel keeper yet, it does seem to work quite easily when just moving the keeper around on an old movement shock jewel. Didn't take but a few minutes to carve it out.

I just made a wooden one with a toothpick. Although I haven't used it to re-install a jewel keeper yet, it does seem to work quite easily when just moving the keeper around on an old movement shock jewel. Didn't take but a few minutes to carve it out.

Check out the last couple of posts in this thread. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/172196-my-first-movement-teardown/page-2#entry1372672

Somewhere in another thread I had heard from others with the same problem that it was caused by that plastic piece. Maybe it's holding the chrono from resetting, if that's possible. I don't know enough about 7750's to make an educated guess. As it is I just let the hour hand go all the way around and then stopped it on zero. But it still annoys me when I have a watch that doesn't work correctly. If it was that, it looks like a relatively simple fix.

That plastic piece that you mentioned at the beginning, the hour counter lock. Can that be replaced with a genuine ETA piece? I think thats whats hanging up one of my 7750's where the hour hand won't reset. Any of you experts have knowledge of that?

Sounds like a decent price assuming it's all gen and not in immediate need of servicing. It would also be nice to see a good picture of the stretch in the bracelet. According to the serial number it's a 1972. Make sure you check the serial engraved on the watch and compare to the paperwork.

And this seems the better idea:

Found this with Google: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/125357-eta-novodiac-spring-tool/ And this: Although the tool looks like it would still be a PIA because holding down all 3 sides of the spring at once is the hard part.