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Sapphire crystal on one watch should be same as every other sapphire crystal on all other watches. I've only heard that complaint on certain AR coatings.

Glad you brought that up. Without looking at the other side of your watch, I believe you need the date at 6 which would be the 2816M. The 2813 is the date at 3 o'clock. The only difference, I believe is the date location. 2833m is also date at 3 but is also the wrong thickness. If you have a black date wheel you will need to swap it over.

Cousins ref: DG2813M IN STOCK Quantity UoM Unit price 1 or more EACH £22.95 Add to Basket: Ø26.00mm Movement, China DG2813 Cousins ref: DG2813M IN STOCK Quantity UoM Unit price 1 or more EACH £22.95 Add to Basket: Ø26.00mm Overall Height 7.32mm Movement Height: 5.62mm Hands: Hour, Minute & Center Seconds Date @ 3h Auto Mechanical

There's about a 20 page thread about MD2020 and how he ripped off the forum members for quite a bit of $$$. Use the search for details.

This topic pops up about once every year. I think a franken should have "a preponderance of genuine parts". Particularly those visible while wearing or inspecting the watch. I'm not sure what I would consider a rep with a gen movement, other than a waste of money.

Well. I disagree. I really lke it. But I can really only see it working with a nice camo canvas strap and a pvd case. What would be the point of a camo dial in a shiny case?

Model glue should work fine. Use a toothpick or a hat pin to apply just the smallest amount and watch out for the glue "strings" as you apply it. Easiest movement to learn on is the larger hand winds like the 6947/8. Second easiest and most practical to learn is the 2836-2. The A21j are pretty hard to get back together and mostly not worth fixing because they are so cheap. I'd try to find an old eta clone that someone might not need and sell cheap.

Super cheap movement. I love the Chinese star on the rotor. You never know, once you fix the two dial indexes it may start working again

That's the same one I've got. It's pretty good for light duty like popping crystals in and out, putting on press on case backs and pressing on DJ bezels. I made a slot in the DJ die for the cyclops to sit in.

If you're going to use a press, make sure the die only hits the outside edge of the insert. Otherwise you'll just flatten it and make it worse. I would get it 85% in and then turn it over and roll the last bit in on a hard surface like a desk.That's the correct way.

Great looking watch. My wife's somewhat flashier second cousin also says hi!

Wouldn't it be nice if the Admin would explain what the problem was. I'm sure people that put their id and password into a strange IP would feel better about it.

I certainly didn't mean to imply it's a gen. Just not such a bad looking rep as people are making it out to be. Open the case back and see if it says "Galena Shitinerand" instead of Geneva Switzerland on the inside. If it was, those were some pretty good rep cases for the early Subs..

That's good to know and thanks for the offer, but I'm not competent enough to take apart chrono movements. I'll let professionals do those and stick to the 3 handed movements.

Unscrewed screw. No windy!

JMB, you've got way to much time on your hands.

I guess I'm the only one that thinks it's not too bad looking. I like the old style hollow end links and the drilled case lugs. It sure would be interesting to see the inside of the case and case back. Could be one of the old "Monarch Polfy" Polex cases. It might be worth cleaning up and putting back into service.

Won't it still work on AC current plugged into a wall socket without the battery installed?

Cheap-o One subdial for month and one for day of the month. Most likely changed by the pushers. $20 A21j movement.

No different than all the knock offs in Las Vegas or Disney World.

I think the OP has found another IP address to sign in on. Although he's not very good at doing a "quote" in his post. He seems to have turned it into one long annoying run on that makes almost no sense. ??

What I've learned from seeing all these Bronzo experiments: They should never manufacture watch cases out of brass or bronze unless they are planning on chrome plating them.

A little inside information about sending reps back to Josh. He was my dealer of choice for about my first 15 watches. I've sent 4 or 5 back early in my rep career. A lot of this is speculation but I'm pretty sure it's mostly correct. When you send them back they aren't going to Joshua, they are going to some other mysterious place that takes care of his repairs. Joshua is from Singapore and his wife is Chinese. The wife's relatives work for Joshua and I get the feeling that it's one of his relative that takes care of returns. So first, Joshua has no idea when it gets there. All he can do is e-mail his contact and wait for a response. He may be in Singapore at the time you are contacting him. If he doesn't know anything I believe he just automatically says it hasn't arrived. I had one watch that it turned out his partner had it for weeks while Joshua was telling me it hadn't arrived. Also, my average wait time was well over 2 months with the last one at around 7 months. On that particular Chopard "Happy Diamonds", he said the original maker had returned to Taiwan and he had to sent the watch on to Taiwan for the repair and wait for it to get fixed. But, in the end I did get them all back and all in good working condition. I had totally written that one off and was surprised when it showed up in my mail.

Pretty obvious that the only thing you can do is straighten out the second hand to match the dial.

Go back to the keyless works and make sure u push the u shaped spring over to the side of the little metal piece,(sorry, no picture and I'm too lazy to look up the name of the parts) it is spring action and when u push the stem in and out to change date or time , it helps push the arm up and down