kbh

No, it's still a very tight fit. First problem is the extra gear that runs the GMT hand sits higher than the date wheel so you have the problem of the date date wheel overlay has to be very thin and installed very carefully. If it's too low it hangs on the GMT gearing and if it's too high it hangs on the bottom of the dial. And you can't raise the dial or you loose the necessary clearance for the GMT hand on the dial. You can see here what I mean about it sitting on the gear: I received the new GMT hand that I had ordered yesterday so I took mine apart again and spent a lot of time finessing the date wheel overlay and sanded down the back of the dial a bit and put it back together. This time I got it looking much better with the GMT hand running perfectly just a hair above the dial indices and the date wheel tight up to the dial back but still turning. The GMT hand looks pretty good now but I wouldn't recommend this unless you have a lot of patience. The sanding down of the dial I think made the biggest difference. Also it may make the date wheel overlay move easier even if it happens to brush the back of the dial. Of course sanding down the back of the dial means removing the dial feet so then you need to glue the dial carefully onto the dial spacer and then when you get it all lined up and working you need to glue the dial spacer to the movement. It ain't easy! I sure as h*ll wouldn't do it on someone else's watch.

After going back and double checking, it was the H5 set that I used, not the H4. Senility must be setting in.

Here's an interesting article about comparison between the Rolex 3135, the ETA 2892, and the ETA 7750 and variants. Surprisingly the 2892 was the winner, at least in the eyes of this watchmaker. http://www.chronometrie.com/rolex3135/rolex3135.html

When I was looking, I didn't see that there was an H5 for the 2893-2. H4 was the highest that the ETA literature showed and the highest that the supplier stocked.

Let's see if he can clear the dial indices without bending the GMT hand. I've got one in a Noob GMTIIC case with H4 pinion set and it still doesn't fit as it should. I just ordered a new green hand and am going to try adding to the tube since I hate the way it is.

I never understood why the ETA movements are both interchangeable when using a Stilty ring. He had a different size for each of the different Rolex movements, but as far as I know, they both worked for either a 2824 or 2836, as you can see from the picture. I've got 3 of the 3035 cases and one's got a 2836-2 and the other two have 2824-2 movements. Wasn't a problem for either movement.

I've got an old batch DW bezel. Not really wanting to sell it but if the price is right????

I thought TC's was supposed to be gen like bezel assembly??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__y-IJt_IOY

Or the #2 ring from Raffles-time on eBay supposedly works.

Well, I changed them with new ETA parts and it's still doing it although it doesn't seems as bad, which is strange. 100% sure it's in the movement and not the crown so I don't know where else to look.

Angus just had a death in the family and will be gone for a week. Don't expect to hear much right away unless his staff handles it, which I doubt.

How long have you worked for them? Nice first post.

I've had one movement, and currently have another one, that slips like that and it's been the castle gear and the winding gear (hope I got the names correct) in the keyless works section that are not meshing and slipping. I assume that its just from normal wear. The first one that I changed solved the problem and I know it's not the crown on the current one because I just swapped movements and the crown was working fine on the other movement. Just another possibility.

I'm looking at a TC handset on my SD right now and the tip comes right to the end of the seconds markers on the dial.

I found the same thing when I was looking around at different pictures.

That tube wasn't made on the case. It either screws into the case or is pressed in. If it's pressed in, it can be pressed out from the inside. Either way, it's got to come out one way or the other. It it was mine, I'd open the case, take out the movement and look. If you don't see anything from the inside, it's almost surely screwed into the case. Get an Easy-Out or a tube removal tool and unscrew it.

There's an old post here from Stilty describing how he put a set of gen hands on an ETA. It didn't sound too challenging.

This may help, but it's on a different forum: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=144733

I do the same with the edge of a razor blade. Very easy on a 2836-2.

If it didn't come "signature required, return receipt", I'd ignore it also.

Here's some advice that's actually from a lawyer: http://www.justanswer.com/law/73rux-hello-i-ve-received-nasty-letter-gibney-anthony.html

Since owning or possessing replicas in the USA is legal, I doubt that that would have little to do with anything.

Although I agree with everyone else, why would you try to sell reps on eBay? That's downright stupid, and you knew they were reps. It's not illegal in the US to own reps but it's still illegal to sell them. And when you're selling more than one, that kind of makes you a rep dealer. Best of luck, you may need it.

Very funny. I wonder what Nanuq will think? lol