kbh

It was probably an old used movement when you bought it. It surely needs a full service by now to bring it back to life. That's part of the problem with enjoying automatic movements. They should be serviced every 4 or 5 years. Sending it back to China would be worst option since no dealer would warranty that after a year.

Although I believe yours is a gen ETA, actually there are a lot of used ETA movements in reps that have a sticker over the rotor. I think he just wants to know if this one does. Here's a picture of one I got. It was an Olma movement underneath. You can see how the sticker is off centered. Your movement does look like a sticker is over the rotor but it's hard to tell for sure.

Make sure the stem is correctly aligned with the tube when you put it all back together. That could be a reason for stiff winding.

Seems way over priced to me.

He's been selling them for a long time. I'd say definitely Seagull. Check out this ETA 2836-2. Even comes with a nice rep Rolex DWO. Bet it's a clone and being sold by a jeweler. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-ETA-2836-2-Automatic-Movement-Runs-Fine/141161481289?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D4113856338380651095%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D111190130987%26

See if you can get them with tall canon pin sets also and I might take a couple. The standard 2824 canon pins are a little too short for most Rolex reps.

Where are you located? Are you sure these are fresh and not NOS. There's someone on eBay selling them for $35 specified as new, old stock. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281242871721?lpid=82

Something just came to mind. I know many of the parts from the gen ETA 7750 are interchangeable with the Asian clone. Has anyone ever tried changing the balance assembly? By the way, I'm looking for a A7750 reversing wheel, which apparently is not interchangeable, if anyone's got a spare.

Parts for an A7750 are not readily available to the average guy on the street. Your best choice is to find a watchmaker from one of the forums who might have spare parts. Otherwise you'll probably have to buy a new movement. Or find a member with a dead Daytona. There seems to be lots of them around.

Yes, at least all the one's that BK made were H4. It's to keep the hands at the proper distance away from the dial, as per the gen. The standard 2824-2 canon pin set is too low.

Funny, I know one guy with a gen Santos and he's quite gay. I will say the watch looks great on him though.

I just went through that same problem with an A7750 yesterday. It was a b*tch to get back in. I was pretty sure the keyless wasn't screwed up since it would go in a pretty good way and would catch on the winding gear so it would wind the movement, but not go all the way in. I fought with it for 20 minutes and tried pushing the release pin down while inserting it. I don't know what the problem was but it finally snapped into place. I normally tell people not to use too much pressure re-inserting the stem, but this one took a little more pressure than I'm used to and made me very uncomfortable. I should also mention that I hate fooling with A7750 movements. Good luck, and don't give up without a fight.

I'd also look into changing the clone date wheel to gen ETA. At least check yours very good with a loupe. The Zigmeister did a good tutorial post specifically on how bad some of the Asian date wheels are. Maybe try searching for that for more information.

Nice pic. Looks like you're enjoying the sunshine. I happened to catch a glimpse of Santa leaving the Tampa area yesterday:

Yes

To say the dial feet are different is just wrong. Sellita was making movements and movement parts for ETA long before they went solo and almost all parts of the 2824-2 and 2836-2 are directly interchangeable unless you know something that the rest of the internet has missed. For years they came out of the same factories. Sellita at one time was actually making branded movements for ETA. If, for some reason you cut the dial feet, now the date wheel is not lining up correctly, it might be not the fault of the movement. Also, clones have notoriously bad date wheels.

Seems rather high priced for an old DJ without the gold TT bracelet.

It'll probably work fine. The main reason that rep factories mainly use 2836-2 movements is they come standard with taller minute, hour, and second hand pins than what is standard in the 2824-2. And, it's easy to remove the day wheel and not use it.

mosyzlak is correct. Although in most cases either will work as they both have the same diameter. But, since you have a unique case situation, you should probably go with the SW220 which is an exact replacement for the 2836-2, just to be sure.

Yes it is.

I've also replaced a lo-beat 2813 with a hi-beat tall cp 4813 with no problem in a Noobmariner. So the thickness of the two movements doesn't cause a problem. The stem still lined up fine.

I've swapped DG to ETA in Rolex reps with no problem. And I've seen others that have been done. But, you'll have to cut the dial feet and mount the dial with glue or double sided tape. And, of course you'll have to get a new set of hands. Or, the easiest would be to swap in a DG2813 which is lo-beat but the difference is hardly noticeable and it would be a lot cheaper.

Too bad you didn't come here first and ask a few questions. Could have saved you the $372. First thing is to forget about finding a 1;1 anything. You're not going to buy a $10,000 watch for $372, period.

You might have to give him about another 3 weeks from what I've dealt with in the past. When you've decided its truly lost is when it will finally arrive, or Andrew will admit to getting it. I've gone thru that drill with Josh several times. My thinking is you're sending it back to a repair place and they (Josh and Andrew) don't have a clue when it really gets there. Be patient grasshopper. I will work out.

Shouldn't be a problem at all as long as the crystal is correctly pressed and the seals greased.