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offshore

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Everything posted by offshore

  1. And I'm sure there are some out there who would like to acquire the "solid" sapphire crystal versions! I will be interested to see exactly what diameter the new ones are made at! As I still believe the issue with the #1 version relates to size, not lamination technique ( or moisture). I have modified one of the #1 crystals, by grinding it down a few thou, and it has now been refitted for a few weeks, and through some varying temperature changes, and shows no signs of delam or stresses. I would almost bet the #2 version is just a few thou down! O/S
  2. Yeh, don't mind that saying..Is it patented? Or can we too plagiarize it ? (I wonder however if you would get another 1/4 of a turn on some?- Must try.) O/S
  3. The caseback should, in most cases have an O ring or Flat ring as a seal. This should be lightly smeared with silicone grease. Then the case back is "nipped up", with a tool, using moderate hand pressure. O/S
  4. @Prsist,For slotted case backs, the crab claw- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=108 is my weapon of choice. I probably open 80% of all watches using one of these. As soon as we move away from the slotted style to Rolex, Breitling, some Omega, I would opt for the multi prong, and then finally turn to the LG when all else fails. Its a bit ironic that the most used tool is the cheapest by far, and a serious investment is required in a tool which sees very little work. Also the time to set up to use a tool like the LG is extensive, so there is the added cost in time for the professional repairer. O/S
  5. Thanks, I must admit I didn't look there! O/S
  6. @CC, I have tried to use the Jaxa....I think some of them are not supplied with very good "teeth" to suit Rolex...and I also think most users believe they can hand hold these things and unscrew the case backs. There is nothing like having a solidly mounted case press and being able to use two hands to steady and guide the tool. As a tip, ...I have mounted my case press and a couple of vices, on a seperate piece of ply, about 18" square. When I need these tools, I just place it on my bench top, and the friction contact is enough to hold enough grip to use these tools or the vices. Then when finished it goes back on the floor, out of the way. I do think the multi prong tool gives better "feel" and certainly allows much more grunt. I 1st saw these in China last year, not very common in the West, but they are the choice of watch repairers in the East, and they really are only a few $$ in the scheme of things....everyone curses loudly when they mark up their caseback, I reckon these are cheap insurance! O/S
  7. Well I open maybe 20+ various screw backs a day, and if I was depending on sticky balls I would see maybe 1/2 opened! (maybe less) The best alternative to a Rolex set- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=50 that I have found, is the multi prong tool- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=49 however it needs to be used with some form of case holder like- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=235 and these must really be bench mounted for decent control. There are a few occasions when none of the above has enough grunt, and I then use an LG Openall- http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/LG-Openall-Waterproof-Case-Wrench.html and sometimes even need to use heat as well to open really stubborn case backs. Some divers watches,...where the owner has noticed a "loose" case back whilst underwater and under pressure, and screwed it back up whilst at depth, can prove a real challenge! However the most important consideration, is how one reseals the case back. And if you think for one moment that a sticky ball will apply enough torque to snug that case back down, and make it fit for immersion underwater, I would suggest a lengthy examination of articles pertaining to salvaging flooded watches is in order. There is no way a sticky ball can nip up a case back and make it PERMANENTLY waterproofed! EVEN if a pressure test offers a positive result, it will only take a knock, or even a motion of the arm whilst under pressure underwater, for the case back to loosen enough to allow water in. No Ifs, no buts, no maybes. Been there, done that. Offshore
  8. Has anyone on board got any clues where I may be able to find one of these? All the usual suspects don't show any... I'm wondering if there may be a cross reference to a Rolex stem? Looking for some RWG wisdom here guys. Offshore
  9. Now thats a serious sickness you have there Doc! What to do? You could melt 'em down, for a rail on your boat.....or open a Pam shop! No idea...but I did see one of the resident Pamophiles lurking, so I guess some serious thoughts re being created right now! Offshore
  10. Just a couple of quick and dirty shots of a Mappin & Webb quartz, I picked up over the weekend. It was in shabby condition, has had a dial clean, a new crystal, battery and strap...(I'm thinking of a nicer strap than this now, as it has cleaned up so well.) T'was a beautiful piece to work on, everything just 'fitted'. Unknown quartz movement, never seen one like it before... I don't know whether M & W have "redialled" another brand as their own, or if this was something they built themselves. Obviously dates to 1983, is solid gold, ( even the movement retainer is a solid gold piece )... I am thinking this ones on the way to the 'vault", as in "Not for sale". I just love its classic simplicity. There are some truly nice gens around, at "budget" prices , if you look hard enough, and are prepared to do a bit of work on them. Offshore
  11. Welcome aboard Chas, but hold your wallet tight! O/S
  12. Thanks RM, the forum appreciates it. Without the ongoing support, this place would cease to be. And a lot of information and wisdom would be lost. We need as many supporters as we can get. Thanks again. Offshore
  13. A couple of Romanians were in court today on the Gold Coast, charged with a number of offences. These guys were installing "readers" in ATM machines. O/S
  14. Sure will! In fact I'll even tell you how much I got for it! Offshore
  15. So has anyone out there got a dead A7750, that would like to sell the movement, or just the auto wind mech? O/S
  16. So do you know where the auto winder comes from FxrAndy? Is it a "standard" A7750 winder mech? O/S
  17. Can anyone help me ID the movement fitted to this Pan? It has been suggested it could be some derirative of an A21J with a module fitted for the secs @9? Even better, if there is someone out there, who may have a "broken" one of these, I need a gear from the auto wind mech. So come on you experts,what is it? and where can I get a part? Offshore
  18. Exactly what I do mean...the local rubbish dump. I get quite a few decent watches from that source. O/S
  19. Yeh..I had a quick browse on the Tudor....and saw similar selling around $700-$1k. Haven't found a lot on the 1920 Rx though. You are, as always, right...will throw them into the "meat market" tomorrow. O/S
  20. See, I said everyone would be interested in the Sub! ( Thanks for the offer Ubi, I'll yell) Who knows anything about the others? They are where I think the $$ may lie. O/S
  21. Hmmmm, the serial # shows it as a 1967???
  22. I don't think this one got to the 'bay JoJo. In fact the seller was having an issue with both his white cane, and his guide dog ( JK) But, seriously I just think this came from a very non watch type seller...it had been an inheritance, and I do think he just didn't know. BTW, I didn't offer a price, I asked him what he wanted for it! It was hard to keep a straight face, and yes, I did fumble with my wallet in my haste! O/S
  23. Frankly, it depends on what I may get from the other 2. If I have a big win with one or both, i will put this into mothballs, or I may even wear it as a daily beater. With a service, its probably knocked around enough that I can't do much more damage, so it may just be a nice "ready worn" watch for daily wear. Wait and see on the value and or sale of the others. O/S
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