offshore

I would be extremely wary of cheap dies or sets for any Rolex. There is already a history of issues with other dies, specifically the 29.5; we searched long and hard to find a die set which was an exact fit for both the DSSD and the standard 29.5 caseback. See here - http://www.rwgforum....post__p__735684 and see Ziggy's comments here - http://www.rwgforum....post__p__750357 If the die flutes are even a little loose in connecting with the case back, you can, and will do some serious damage to your watch. Ours sells at A$50 to forum members, http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=240 and A$70 to the public ( You must register to get your forum discount), and I can't sell them any lower than that. So those others being offered are from a different source. We are currently negotiating on die sets for Panerai and Omega case backs, and they will also be of similar pricing. Offshore

Jerome, It may pay you to read these- Having spent a few days there last year, I can tell you that you will be sorely disappointed if you don't contact one of the dealers before you travel. Anything you may be able to find in the markets will be at best, middle of the road stuff, and any top end watches are viewed by appointment only. You probably won't find the better quality watches much cheaper than you can buy here, but being introduced by someone who knows the ropes, and the current "best buy" areas, will at least make your time there more enjoyable. O/S

FWIW, if you ask the seller for model/serial /case numbers, you can submit them to the Omega site for verification. They will tell you if they all add up, and exactly its provenance. The supposed link to the Israel AF may be a giveaway. That may remove some of the mystery of what it actually is. But don't trust the Israelis to not have Frankens or copies, they copied some Aussie Passports recently to kill a guy, which wasn't very nice between friends O/S

There are plenty of references to Miyota powered Armanis as well, and specifically I found- "Emporio Armani Chronograph Watch Miyota OS20" Tell us a model and we may be able to give a better answer, but my guess would be a Miyota and probably this OS20. O/S

@ p, These are 2.5mm I believe, we are currently looking into "(very)fat" springbars, and hope to have some news in a week or so. O/S

Yep , Got that for you! Email please so I can send a zipped copy. O/S

My worst mistake? Back "in the day", when ETA driven were only $180, I was offered a deal from the inimitable "Natalie Lee" on a quantity of watches. "Her" reputation was only so so. After much deliberation over $1k was sent to Singapore, for 8+ watches. A couple were initially shipped, which all had problems, and were returned. And then communications became "difficult" Finally I was left with a big round zero...so if anyone sees me blow up when "NL" is mentioned, you'll understand why. And proved once again to "Buy your dealer, then your watch" Offshore

Well Precision Replicas dates back to, and was part of the whole replicacentre con back then, and doesn't appear to have changed its colors! Don't know the other one. I don't think a genuine vendor would have those photos, be US based, and accept CC. O/S

As stated elsewhere it is Chinese New year, which will be the reason for no response. Were you supplied with photos of the watch you were getting? Offshore

Almost certainly a snap back from those pics. Somewhere there will be a minor indentation for an "in". Start at around the reverse of 10 o'clock, and work slowly around. If it is a watch you have worn a bit, even run a toothbrush or driver tip round the slot to move anything that may be hiding the "in". If you can't get a knife in anywhere, you may have to resort to a case back wedge tool, which a local watchmaker may have. Like these- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=180 http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=179 Offshore

@CC, A pic of the back would help! O/S

Actually I had put a DL link for all the cats here. http://www.rwgforum.com/topic/93459-g-s-crystal-catalogues/ O/S

Mini Porta Power?

http://www.gssupplies.com/plastic_watch.html O/S

Lani, If you can locate a specific GS number you need, (or model X dia), let me know it. I have around 20,000 GS crystals sitting here. O/S

Me? Nah, I wish! I do remember in the early days, when I was operating a dive shop, that the US Divers reps were frugally handing these out to their better accounts! Unfortunately I wasn't on that list. O/S

Nice one R! Thats a pretty exclusive club you just joined. O/S

Be aware that there are a number of versions of this tool, and some use inferior steel in the blades. (Check whether the blades are shiny stainless or black as a good starting point) The version with quality hardened stainless blades is a little dearer and a LOT more efficient. I have not encountered a bezel yet that this has not removed very quickly and effectively, and thus far have not experienced any problems with marking. I do "clean up" the blades after each use, so there is nothing on the blade which could marr its use and mark the bezel or case. O/S

Maybe you need to get a caseback knife in there, and marginally lever the clasp a touch wider, so you can get to the spring bar. If it was a tight fit when installed, the spring bar may have been assisted into the clasp without thought of getting a spring bar tool in there, and the only way is to open it up a touch. Or the clasp may have received a knock which has closed it up. Sometimes we need to marginally "mod" things to give the tools even 1/2 a chance of working. O/S

@AMK, Yes those can be "trying". You must initially apply a medium level of pressure downwards on the dot, and at the same time attempt to push it outwards. Once you see it move, even just a little, you can then lever it out from just inside the dot, or if it has moved enough to get pliers onto the end, you can grab the nd and drag it out. You will find these are an "L" shaped bar. Once you get the 1st one to move, and come to understand exactly how it operates, it does become easier A lot of these are "older" so I have at times had to heat the area to get things moving and on a couple of occasions to remove the band and clean it in an ultrasonic to clean out built up dirt ,which was stopping the L bar from moving. They are a real test of persistence though O/S

Typo - 3 dots! OS

In a lot of "goodies " I recently acquired are some stainless Rolex and Tudor crowns. I am told they are gen, and certainly look to be. They are however unfinished on the back faces. The Rolex/Tudor stamps, and knurling is finished, however the back side requires lathe work and tapping. Rolex has 4 dots under BTW. I occurred to me that they may be useful for someone who has a different project. Various sizes 7.14/7.06/6.93 diameter, 4.08, 4.2 thick, all with 3mm of solid stem protruding. If they are useable by anyone, give me a yell. Offshore

Thanks Val, That has been "dealt" with! Offshore

much more forgiving.

GS Hypo Cement would be a better choice, and the applicator on the nozzle is perfect for that job. O/S