Slartibartfast

OK, so thanks for all the comments. Second draft now shown below. Items tinkered with, include..... 12 o'clock marker centered above crown Minute markers added below "SWISS-<25" Flat topped A's added to text below depth rating Serifs added to text (though at this resolution, not easy to see) Depth rating text thickened up a bit OK so how's it looking? Any other pointers? Shout out loud guys!

I love the dial / lume / hands on this model, and have seen them around for some time. It's the bezel that doesn't quite do it for me though. They always seem to sell for less than you would expect IMO.

No fonts were harmed in the making of this dial. It's all vectors. And every bit drawn from scratch.

Hey, thanks for all the input guys, it is much appreciated. Many minds are better than one with these things. I'll take it on board your comments and post an image of Mk II, soon as.

Thanks ubi. I had not noticed that difference between the metres first and feet first models. edit....

Cripes! You're right. I hadn't spotted that. It needs fixing for sure.

Well after a fairly good response to my latest dial decal topic whic you can catch up on here, I have decided to see what further possibilities there are with this technique, and have taken By-Tor up on his suggestion below. So, here is the first draft of my 1680 dial graphic, on which I would invite comments from those who know. There is no font smoothing applied yet, or the correct colour match. That will come later, but first the font, spacing, font size etc etc must be fine tuned. If anyone has any further reference material they can point me to, that would be appreciated. After the graphic is finished, it is then simply a case of printing out a sheet of decals, and away we go. So common, don't be shy! Let's have some constructive feedback.

I might have a go at re-creating the Single Red Sub dial. Takes a while though, so I'll check back in with an update in a coup;le of weeks or so. Watch this space.

Does anyone have the required dimensions for the dial? Is the original required, or a rep equivolent? As I don't have access to the original I have no benchmark dimensions to work from. Maybe the "standard" rep 28.5mm sub dial is the target, but who knows? Has anyone got any info?

Hey BT! I have thought about this, but have no way of printing the results. I can create the dial graphics no doubt, but have no access to a colour laserjet that could print the results at the 1200dpi required.

TeeJay, this is very interesting. I must say that I am surprised that these dials are in any way robust. I am glad that event didn't ruin it for you, and that you are still enjoying wearing them.

Thank you! It does look good, doesn't it I wish I could find one. But for this ETA movement, the best I could do was the plain red. Even this had to be sourced from 'overseas'.

Hi No problems with the originals I made. I have the Explorer Precision on my wrist at this time. The dial is a fresh as the day I printed it. No issues with the lume either. HOWEVER....I would not like to get any moisture into one of these babies!

Great source of info. Thanks for sharing. The speedy is one of my alltime favourit watches. One day I will own an original.

I bought a couple of Tudor cases from Ebay a while back. They are actually Tudor Prince Date 'Jumbo' cases which are 38mm diameter. Although bigger than the original Ranger, they sit very well on the wrist being the larger size.

I can't stop scratching this dial making itch, and have this time re-created a Tudor Oysterdate Ranger using the now well tried and tested waterslide decal technique. Anyone who is not familiar with this approach to dial making can see my posts by clicking on the link in my sig. The dial is printed on laserjet waterslide transfer paper. I have lumed the dial using Revell Night Color mixed with a little acrylic paint to add tint. The dial blank comes from a job lot I bought from Ebay. It is originally from a Pulsar For the heart of this project, I have used an ETA2846 slow beat movement purchased a while back from Pugwash. I have fitted it with a red datewheel for that vintage look. I think the combination of the classic case shape on the mesh bracelet works very well. Very comfy to wear. I am quite pleased with the results. Happy Easter!

Just stick a folded link bracelet on it and you're there! Having owned an original, I have to say that your franken is on the money! Congrats.

Superb work freddy!

Wise words indeed. Still I can't help checking at least 501 times a day when I have incoming. And it never does arrive any quicker. @pascal - it'll arrive. Just chill.

Shouldn't need to remove any parts to take the stock datewheel off. There are notches in the cover plate on the oposite side to the winding stem. Manualy rotate the date wheel by "half a day" to align the inner teeth on the datewheel with the notches in the cover plate, tilt and remove.

See, that's what I like about this place!

Superb choice. This model can only appreciate in value. A good investment piece IMO.

Here's mine. A 2006 Seamaster from Joshua. Just sold it to another forum member last week... might be regreting that now. Runs a 2824-2 from the days when no-one had heard of a clone movement. Awesome watch!

Yep, me too.

I had this problem once on a 2836. The yoke (and correct me if my terms are wrong) pushes on the ratchet wheel because it in turn pushes on a flat sprung part of the works. I found that the yoke had overlapped the spring slightly so that there was no pressure on the yoke, therefore the ratchet wheel would not engage the winder. Simply resetting the yoke onto the flat spring cured it. Apologies again for not knowing the correct terms for these parts. I hope you get the gist.