leitztozeiss

Perfect . . .

The 'working' swan neck thing actually doesn't bother me. My concern is having any swan neck (functioning or not) plus nicely finished CDG finish. Early CDG finish was not nice at all.

Thanks for sharing.

My subscription is current and due to expire on Aug 4, 2006. Why am I not able to post in the Trading Zone?

Oh . . . hmm. Ok, red letter it is . . . Thanks UBS!!

Here's a pictorial update on the repair of my lovely Watchmaster 1665. I'm also having some mods done. Tommy (daytona tommy, not palps) sent me some pics of the work in progress. We're still looking for a reasonably priced red letter dial, so if anyone has one please PM me!! Go Tommy, Go!!! Superdome a la Andy OEM insert

Thank you.

Nice. What's the strap size of the Jones?

Strong testimony from the man with the IWC avatar. Thank you for sharing your observations - THAT was very helpful. Armchair comparisons of pictures on the internet doesn't beat side by side comparisons with the genuine article.

Eddy, is that a watchmaster 1665?

Finepics, how about cal. 526? I found a pocket watch that is about 51-52mm diameter and has the 526.

LOL!!! LOL!!!!!! Yeah, yeah, I've got large wrists, which makes it difficult to take advantage some of the great deals that pop up occasionally on the P'risti forum. And worse, Drew doesn't make long 26mm lenths in the tan baseball strap or the distressed lamb strap. My brother in law (tikerz) has the opposite problem. Skinny wrists - the fiddy looked silly on his wrists, as the straps would actually angle inwardly from the watch because the lugs extended past his wrists!! I don't know which is worse.

Took mine apart again to clean a spot on a hand and remove dust - yes, the watch indeed has seals galore. One in tube, one on crown, and two on caseback. I just didn't notice in the heat of taking the thing apart the first time, so I stand corrected. Swim, bath and be wet with your 187's!

Ok, I've been working on a 16610 project and am ready to reinstall the stem/crown. Am I supposed to insert the stem, then press the button as I am inserting the stem further??? Thanks.

Sherrington. You're into vintage, so I would recommend Watchmaster's latest vintage pam offering with a genuine Cortebert movement. Ooooh. Aaaaah.

Have a good summer Kev. See you when you come back in the fall!!!! LOL!!

Oh. Are EL's the same as honpo's case? If so, I'll stand corrected - swim, be free, be one with the fishes!!!

Bazz, where did you get that strap?!?!

187 With Perfectly Straight Subdial Hands!

Yes, the caseback is reasonably sealed. My only concern really is the hole in the case where the stem goes. I don't recall seeing a gasket for the crown/case interface. Maybe they just forgot the gasket on mine. I'm not swimming with mine based on what I saw when repairing it last night.

K. Unless you've taken steps to seal your 187, try to minimize exposure to water and especially do not submerse. When I took apart my 187, I was surprised to find no gaskets or any sort of means of preventing water from entering the stem hole in the case. If there was something, it's minimal.

Thanks. The hand remover tool is shown below with the 'wood' handle just below the tweezers.

Ooh. I didn't think about that while doing this. Yes, I made sure the adhesive only touched the end of the hand with the hole, but did so to facilitate separation of the hand from the tape once pressed into position. But, your reason sounds like a better reason for doing this!!

Thank you Jon, and thank you Finepics for the tips!!

First removed case back using the balled duck tape technique. Disassembled crown guard B from case by removing screws C. Removed crown A per Jon's instructions above. Removed movement holding screws D. Held a clear plastic sheet against movement, and flipped watch upside down so that movement falls out of case and onto plastic sheet in hand . . . Cut slit in a small square of clear plastic sheet and slid the sheet between dial and underside of subdial hand. Using hand remover tool (making sure tool feet rest against plastic sheet and NOT the dial), removed the offending 30-minute subdial hand . . . Duck taped the movement/dial assembly to the table in absence of movement holder (perhaps should've done that before the hand removal - oh well, live and learn) . . . Used Edge technique of using clear gift wrap tape to hold hand while positioning . . . Once in position, press the subdial hand home using the tube end of a pen ink refill . . . Notice assembly of pushers and case . . . movement has to be guided sideways and down into the case so that pusher ends enter apertures in side of movement . . . Screw movement down, insert crown (this took me several times, and a couple of heart stopping moments before realizing that I should've first centered the movement so that the aperture in the movement for receiving the stem is properly centered with respect to the stem hole in the side of the case) . . . voila . . . a couple of days to think about it, and about 45 minutes to actually do it.