chiman12

that IS NICE...yes...I am green with envy...

I am a big fan of the InGod dials. Depend on which series of drsd you want to build, InGod is the way to go...

rehaut is too wokky, the dial is wrong, GMT hand is wrong, insert looks too plastic and rigid as compared to the Yuki offering. The bracelet and the movement is the only thing that has potential to carry it over to a different project...that is...If you can find a small hand GMT to fit...but Yuki might be resolving that really soon!

L...the 16030 uses a C135...genuine crystals are a dime a dozen...CousinsUK sells the gens for about $50, but you can get Sterny replacements for way less (around $10), so I wouldn't worry about chopping off the cyclope...because I did on mine also!

:bad:

I'm humbled to be mentioned also! But what I've learned, I've learned through the community and more importantly from Ubi...I can't say it enough and others have mentioned numerous times...Ubi is what RWG is all about...his willingness to share, his generosity of donating items to members, his building/modding experience, and his quick wit. Ubi...you can't say no man!!!

You can also sand the sides of the crystal down a bit instead of taking metal off the case. This would be an easier solution for a person that doesn't have the machinery like JMB! .007" is only .18mm...it will take not more than 15 minutes to do JMB...are you sure it is a PT case? Because I never had a problem fitting a gen crystal on my PT case with the cartel bezel...

Very nice Ubi! Love the PCG's

Awesome Y! I love vintage Tudors...

Very nice build!

Maybe...

That is freakin retro cool!!!! I wonder how I can bust up my current computer and justify buying the new C64?

L...I would spray on the varinsh that is to be used (matte, clear, satin) and let the varnish set up for about 15-20 seconds, than use a towel or paper towel and quickly and lightly dab at the dial until you get the finish that you want (you'll feel the tackiness of the varnish). The dabbing will lift the varnish ever so slightly, because it's still setting up. If you don't use a lintless paper towel, you will need to rinse the dial after the varnish dries completely, to rinse off the excess fibers the paper towel leaves behind. For the finish on my GMT, I used a matte varnish and would dab a few less times and when the varnish is more wet. I initially experimented on a few spare dials and tried different materials to get different effects. But NEVER wipe the dial...because that will screw up everything and then you feel like this... :black_eye: :black_eye: !!!!

That is one nice tool watch JoJo!

Thanks for the kind comments everyone!!! M! The project wouldn't have happen without your help..so thanks once again! The crystal was ever so slightly larger, so I found a different retaining ring that fit tighter than the original that came with the case. This ring pinched the edge of the crystal tight against the case and it fits really tight now. As for the pearl, that is one thing that escaped me! I'll take it back out and apply some of my vintage lume to it. My crazy dog avatar! My son named him Garfield! He always looks up at me with that dopey look, so I decided to a pic of it one day! It'll be back one day...

I had have an inaccurate polar Explorer II dial handy for an experiment. Here is the direct shot of the dial...pretty!!!! When I take a more indirect shot...spiderwebs!!! I accomplished this by first removing all the markers and then I polished the dial with Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0. I used very light pressure to apply the polish. I assumed that the polish gave the dial some micro scratches...after that I varnished the dial with a clear finish...

My initial inspiration was Ubi's 5514 project located here. I can truly say that I love all of Ubi's projects. He has a great attention to detail and I consider him one of the best modders/builders that I have ever came across. As such, I endevoured to create my own COMEX 5513, but a much cheaper version than Ubi's (because I got 2 kids to feed!!) So here is my attempt at a COMEX 5513 sub... I have to also thank Alligoat for supplying me the old school thin cased 1665 with the functioning He valve. He was gracious enough to sell me the case so I can realize my project. I tried to create some water damage/aging just like Ubi's dial, but it is difficult to replicate. I believe I managed to get the look close enough. In addition, I used a NDT 5517 sub dial that I couldn't sell. I removed the "T" symbol and appiled the aging to the dial. I also reshaped the CG's to match a 5513, so the 1665 CG's got an invite to the chiman CG spa... The case back, thought incorrect, also had the full engravings of a 1665, so I removed some of the engravings and also reshaped the case back to give it a more pronounced dome. Here is an original case back for comparision...mine is missing COMEX and the serial no. Image borrowed from 10pastten.com To finally finish off my COMEX 5513...the controversial 93150 bracelet!!!! So my specs are: old skool 1665 thin case cartel bezel insert..faded gen Rolex crown Clarks tropic 19 NDT 5517 dial...converted to a 5513 dial ETA 2836...I had one kicking around CousinsUK sub hands... old skool cartel 93150 bracelet with the controversial clasp... Here is a closing shot of a gen COMEX 5513... Once again...thanks to Ubi for the inspiration and thanks to Alligoat for the case. Cheers!!!!

....and you did all that still in your PJ's?????

Alligoat is a class act, as mentioned before, people like him is the reason why RWG is No.1 in my books!

Glad to see you got it! The 1680 has a lot of CG for you to work with, but it looks like the 1680 has the potential to be a cheap and fairly accurate Tudor Snowflake. Can't wait to see the finished product!

I've been trying to wrap my head around when the 2nd generation case was introduced. Based on my findings, I've determined that the 2nd gen case occurred somewhere between 3,2xx,xxx and 4,xxx,xxx serials. In other, words the higher He valve occured during the introduction of the Mk4 dials. I seen some Mk4's with higher He valves, some not. With this, here is a perfect side shot of a GW from my Japanese handbook... Without a doubt all GW's had the He valve situated higher on the side of the case. So...sorry MBW fans...except for the thick bezel and case back, the MBW case is incorrect for a GW build and is more proper for a drsd build. But then again, as P mentioned, we are splitting hairs, but this is why this forum is so great, the knowledge and the need to know!!! Have a Merry Christmas everyone!!!!

By hand, use 600 grit sand paper and start at 12 o'clock, going around and lightly going around the insert. I would not suggest to use any power tool, because the metal used for the insert is relatively soft.

I lightly sanded down the edge of my gen until it snapped in tightly...

Very interesting Freddy...when did the second version of the 1665 come out approximately? Because here is a shot of a drsd with a Mk3 dial circa 1972, with my hash marks imposed on the pic. The He valve seems pretty centered to me and the pic is from a reputable gen vintage collector. So did the second version come out after 72???? I'm curious if I have the right case for the right dial...