JoeyB

I used 1500 grit sandpaper, dry. That left very slight sanding marks. I secured the hole using a toothpick, and gently sanded in one direction away from the pinion hole, one swipe at a time. I did it that way because I had tried just sanding back and forth and ruined the hand on the backstroke catching on the paper. If it can be done wrong, I did it! But I learned.

You found the straight hour hand! Is it from Frei's as I once suggested? Is the hour hand a 13mm? Mine were silver. I lightly sanded my hands down to the bare brass thinking that an ocean going watch would be so equipped. You're gonna love it. I love mine!

freddy, so what was dating Paul Newman's daughter like?

Same here. I bought 4 of them from him, and all were genuine ETA, and all needed just a cleaning service.

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-41787046 So if the genuine is worth $18 million, wouldn't the reps be worth at minimum 1% of that?

I agree. I came upon that article back in the pioneering days of dial decals. Mazzariol's blog is by invite only now, and I'm not invited. But I wrote about it back then, 20th reply. Come a long way since back then.

Yes.

It would need to be very thin, as the decal shows all. Well done! Thank you.

How did you do the red?

I have these 6mm Brevet crowns on both my 6542's, and my 6204. The 6542 with the DG movement is my daily wearer for about 5 years now, and, so far, no failure in crown or tube at all.

I secured the crown and slowly turned the stone using the 'cup' part of the stone to take the edge down. All by hand.

Inside I used fine emery cloth doubled-faced taped to a popsicle stick. All very high tech. I needed to use an old stem to secure it in the Dremel. On the outside, be careful. It is very easy to take the bottom of the '+' off'. High tech first hand experience. Eventually I used a Dremel stone that comes with a hollowed out on the top and hand turned that. It worked better for me. You can see the edge this stone made better in the 6542 pic.

When I worked with Rafflestime to make the 6mm Brevet crown some communication was lost in translation. So I modified the crown and it works out well. https://rwg.cc/topic/140709-6mm-brevet-crown/#comment-1046260

That's why I couldn't use the HR case. I paid over $100 for it, and should try to sell it I suppose.

I bought a HR case a while ago because the side profile shape is very good, closer to gen than any others I've seen, though it does need to be thinned. I like the case-back much better as well. In regards to the bezel/crystal mounting, mine is not the gen design using the pressed on retainer to secure the crystal, and the bezel clipping on the retainer with the spring, instead it is the cement-in crystal 'trough'. Have they changed them, or did I misunderstand your post?

The 6542 used 1036 (1954-1959), 1065 (1957-1959) and 1066 (1957-1959). The 1500 series was first useed in the GMT with the 1675 model, 1565 (1959-1964), 1575 (1965-1980), 1565 (1959-1964), 1575 (1965-1980). When I made my overlay to print I looked long and hard at many of them. The ETA and DG movements rotate opposite of the genuine Rolex 6542 and later movements. https://www.hqmilton.com/timepieces/morx9gol/1956-rolex-gmt-6542-with-tropical-serpico-y-laino-dial-8700 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-december-9-2016

The '6' in the number '26' should be open as are the other '6' around the wheel.

Well done!

I am located in the suburbs of Chicago, USA. Went to 'Michael's' craft store, the 'Sharpie Metallic Fine Point Permanent Marker Silver' is $2.49. On line coupon is 20% off. So that's $2.00 plus sales tax. That's a nice fix.

Most all the watch material supply houses have hands to fit ETA. Try Otto Frei. No offense, but if .5mm and a set of hands is enough to stop you, don't bother trying to build a 6542.

I can only speak on GMT and Sub dials that had a chapter ring, I have no knowledge of others. The chapter ring diameter itself is 26mm. That's why the long minute hand on the early 1950s models had a 13mm minute hand, and they all had a 13mm GMT hand.

First, what is the diameter of the dial that came with your 1655? Does it fit the case with no 'wiggle-room' at all? You might have some flexibility as 1mm isn't much room. I have reduced the diameter on dials, and made dials round from flat stock, by using a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer as an 'axle' in the center hole, and lightly touching it, making the dial spin on the axle, to a bench grinder. caution: Using metal as an axle will ruin the dial by enlarging the center hole while spinning! A toothpick isn't strong enough and will break. The bamboo is strong enough. Afterward you can use that bamboo stick to apply lume. Holding the axle and using my thumbs on each side to steady the dial, I touch the dial edge to the bench grinder slightly. The dial will spin on the axle, and grind a tad, then stop and fit to the case. It usually takes a few times as you don't want to take too much or overheat the paint on the dial. If you have a spare dial you can practice.

Yep, I tried red paint under the decal, but it left a 'lump'. The decals dry quite tight and take the impression of whatever they are applied to. Grinding a 'trough' of sorts in the specific area might work. Paint fill, then level, then apply the decal.