hackR

+2

hey ddebo!...nice looking watches...wear them well...thanks for sharing!... do you wear them on your left or right wrist?... R-

@jalal -- ahem, this is a Breit subforum...yellow card for the Rlx, AP references... but a nice recovery with the SA BS...

+1 -- this is really sharp... still not sure i like the pearl, tho!...gotta see one in the wild, i guess... R-

here's the jacksontse website: click here...

@Thogaa --> i agree...looks like a Citizen Nighthawk or one of the many other complicated-i-want-to-look-cool department store chronos... i vote for a non-chrono simple arabic dial Seawolf Blacksteel...keep it simple and stealthy...OR strap with DLC deployment... but seriously, let me understand this concept...you are diving with a $5000 Breitling in depths of water up to 1000m...and you use the chronos for what?!...

a word of advice...take a breath and look around awhile...you'll find some amazing pieces here... great looking trio of Breits!...now, please buy the new B01, so we can check it out...

you bought which Breitling?...not that one?!...oh well - you'll learn the hard way............... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . learn the hard way.....that...............we're a great community...enjoy the Bentley - it's a nice one!... . . . . wear it well, and welcome to RWG!...now take a breath and DO NOT track your first shipment...it'll only drive you crazy....in the meantime, research your second purchase... R-

well - here goes...the final product after sanding lightly... it still has a slight sheen - which is comparable now to what a brushed ss PAM would have...and the sanding does tone down the bronze tint, making it look a little more pewter in color...the edges can get worn down to the base metal so you have to take it slow and be careful as you sand...but this is the look i was hoping for... i'll probably tinker with it a little more...but wanted to get some pix up before i lose the outdoor light... all in all, it's definitely much better than the painted look of the rep pvd... :

sanding is the plan guys...just wanted to shoot some pix of the case after cape codding...it's definitely got too much sheen to it...and as D says, there's a bronze tint to it...hoping some sanding with add a little pewter tint to it...

thanks to the members in this thread that advised me on this...it's what the forum is about!... readying to sand now, Red...using the same 180 grit 3M sanding block/sponge mentioned... more to come...(i agree with ya - i'm going for the same distressed look as mir) R-

here's the cape codded pvd case next to my PAM 172 Tantalium...gives you an idea of the color compared to ti and polished ss...

i just completed taking a cape cod cloth to the pvd case...i used 3 separate pieces of cape cod - replacing one when it dried out - and worked the case for about an hour...next step will be to lightly sand it with the 180 grit sandpaper sponge...i would describe the case color as a gun metal pewter bronze...i did my best to get some natural sunlight pix of it to capture the color...what'd ya think?!...off to sand it a little to dull it down... enjoy - R here's the case before cape cod (pix shot inside with florescent lighting) here's the pix after the cape cod work..

I agree with your thought that the cape cod should take some of the pvd finish off - as that's the principle they work under for polished ss...so, i'm thinking that's a good way to start...was thinking - before this post - of just trying the sandpaper out, but now i think i should follow your lead.... your case almost looks like an oxidized titanium case - with a little distressing...a very cool look!...once again - well done and thanks!...process and before/after pix really helps!... R-

@mir --> well done...now that's the kind of look i was thinking about...did you completely strip the case down - removing the crown tube and the crystal?...also, what does the cape cod do to the finish prior to the sanding?...does it lighten it at all?...you mention a brownish/blackish sheen...i have to assume this is a necessary step instead of just trying the sandpaper, right?!...

@Drulee --> who's ti case is the one without a strap dimple?...

good luck with it...a really stunning looking piece...and you're right, the rotor is gorgeous!... R-

thanks, avitt!...besides cc and bead blasting, can you think of any other do-it-yourself treatments that might assist with removing some of the pvd finish and/or sheen?...at this point, i'm just playing around...if i like it, i would go with your treatment...right now, the sheen of this finish is turning me off from pvd finish...but i think if i can tone/dull it down, i'd like it much better...

thanks, D...i thought i read it might not make a difference, too...i was looking to just do a d-i-y on the case versus bead-blasting, etc... getat website link: click here here's a couple pix of my getat pvd case...i just tossed in a dial and movement to see how it would look...

i have a getat pvd case with the usual sheen that comes with these current pvd models...i'd like to soften the look of the case and get rid of the sheen and make it look gun metal and/or slightly worn... i don't want to drag it behind my car to distress it...but am looking to see if anyone has used cape cod, brushed one or some other process to soften up the color and finish...i've read of cape cod usage on old skool pvd and avitt quality pvd cases...but these getat cases are different in finish than those - as most know...i also wouldn't mind if the process thinned the pvd coating...just looking for something that makes it look broken in and less glossy... i'd appreciate any comments and/or ideas - and whether or not you've tried it... thanks... R- edit: this topic originally started as an inquiry - but with member advice - turned into a project...follow the thread and enjoy the steps: raw, after cape codding, after sanding, completion...thanks especially to mir36, Drulee, Ed Mc Manos...

i'd hunt down some old skool case models... i have the old skool 036 and old skool 172...both are NOT DSN...and are really great pieces...but both need reluming and some minor tweaks to make them better... the 036's lever pin is installed upsides down (small end is facing up)...so it will need a simply pin fix... both old skool pieces have blue tinted AR on the inside of the crystal...another simple fix - it comes off easily with staninless steel polish/creme... my 2 cents... **** not sure these meet the out of box reference - but i think these are the best pieces to get and mod...superlume is only gen-like when it's done by a lumer and not the factories...IMO... R-

man....this is a gorgeous piece!... great find, S!...let us know what you decide to do... R-

my Zigmeister RC Tritec grade A c3 superluminova PAM 000 is on the right!...it should arrive to me later next week!.... The watch on the left is RC Tritec regular grade c3 superluminova...grade A must be 25% brighter than regular grade...and grade A must also glow for 700 minutes vs. 570 for regular grade...(information plagairized courtesy of The Zigmeister)

I'm with you, A...I like the red one a lot...roman numerals - cool...but I really think it would benefit from a white on black dw...the white one is horrible with this dial - and accentuates the sunken dw...white font on black dws look less sunken to me, too...argh!... R-

blobby pearl....