projectologist

Crap. Newer version is quite a bit nicer and more accurate. The one in your pics has a really bad cg, especially the outside lever tip (the shape is really weird and screams rep)

Both have aged nicely. I carry the key fob everyday and it's held up really well. The Ti buckle is more rugged than I thought it would be. The gen Asso has patina'd beautifully and not a single sign of any thread fuzzies. These straps are made to last. Scrapes rub out instantly with your thumb and nothing liquid has stained it permanently so far. One of the few straps I would consider a good investment considering how much wear I've gotten out of it, and one of the few that really does keep getting better with age. Don't need to baby it at all.

Luck of the draw as it is with all reps with these movements. Drop in a $40 Seagull ST-36 6497 movement and you're good to go. But for the record, this is the 2nd 390 I've owned and like the first I have had no issues.

Just in case folks scroll over the post I corrected above... These are all diamond models that Panerai the company produced as regular models, not "one off" 30, 31, 32, 33, 41, 53, 54,66, 68, 71, 73, 95, 96, 99, 100, 101, 102, 129, 130, 131, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 144, 145, 148, 179, 181, 263, 264 and 265. Pics of most of these models here... just click on "Diamond" in the model selection bar near the top of the page, then on the Diamond page click on the model #'s in blue. http://www.paneristi...lesimation.html

Fixed I took off the aluminum I had wrapped around my head...

These are all diamond models that Panerai the company produced as regular models, not "one off" 30, 31, 32, 33, 41, 53, 54,66, 68, 71, 73, 95, 96, 99, 100, 101, 102, 129, 130, 131, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 144, 145, 148, 179, 181, 263, 264 and 265. Pics of most of these models here... just click on "Diamond" in the model selection bar near the top of the page, then on the Diamond page click on the model #'s in blue. http://www.paneristi.com/reference/sortable_database/millesimation.html

They fit in the recessed area of the backside of the crown. HF = H Factory... their O-ring/gasket is thinner, Noobs is a little too thick to work with HF hex crown tube.

You can just go with the Noob cg and crown, no need for a Noob case. In my pics that's what you see... an HF case with Noob cg and crown. Also need to mention... to use the Noob cg/crown combo, you'll need to use the HF o-ring with the Noob crown.

Everything is HF except the cg and crown which are Noob. He's the original owner and he told me the only mod was the cg and crown.

I was told by the seller it's all HF except the cg and crown which are Noob.

This one arrived today and I'm impressed with how much better the Noob cg is compared to the H Factory's. It didn't come with the original HF cg for comparison but I think the difference is obvious. All I had to do is sink the cg's lever pin a hair below the top surface, next will be polishing the pin that holds the roller bearing in place and I'm done. Slammed on my 1 year-old patina'd Asso and it's good-to-go

My only suggestion would be to re-sand the VCG body and lever with 320 grit wet/dry 3M sandpaper (used dry). This will give a very accurate PreV brushed finish, 100 grit is way too coarse. Congrats... always nice to see someone keep refining their project to perfection

Of course, and it would be a great topic to start another/separate thread specifically about work boots.

I did a lot of comparing between these 2 brands. But the Aldens were a notch or 2 better in most areas... some were overall fit and finish (can be seen the way edges are finished and consistency of stitching, eyelets are better quality (makes a big difference over time) and quality of leather used in all areas was better (very important in the interior lining). RedWing makes a good product at a fair price point, but for approximately 25% more, the Aldens are a superior product in almost every way... IMHO. Note I'm not referring to the entire range of products, just a particular style of both manufacturers. RedWing is still the work-boot king.

Hope to see the factory someday. I've seen pics and it looks like they're still using some of the same machinery from 100 years ago. True craftsmanship is a rare commodity in the footwear industry.

Well my b'day came and went earlier this year and I hadn't made up my mind which shoes or boots my wife could get for me (she has been bugging me to get a new pair for the past couple of years). So I started doing research on some of the better brands still made in the US and with old-school methods. I kept reading good things about Alden's lasts more so than any others. I'm on my feet a lot and need solid support that hits my foot in all of the right places. Plus it's a last that easily accommodates in-soles... a huge plus. Fast forward to a meet-up with member m3amg this past weekend, and BAM! He's wearing Alden Indys, the 403's (my favorites) AND they turned out to be my exact size when I tried them on. I'm a size 10 with most shoes, but I had read that with Alden's boots, you need to go down a half size. So the 9.5's were perfect After about 5 minutes of walking around at lunch they were good to go. Wore them the rest of today and into this evening with zero issues. The footbed is perfect for my foot with no heel rise up and down rubbing when I walk. That has always been an issue with most boots I've owned in the past. Highly recommended as the last pair of lo-top boots you will ever need. And with the generous welt, re-soles are easy. Now all I need is a decent pair of jeans to go with them. Why does good denim have to be so damn expensive???

Cut-out looks fine as well as the roller-bearing positioning. Here are some gen examples at approximately the same angle (just tipped forward a little in one)...

Good stuff... looking forward to more! Yep, ETA doesn't manufacture the Incabloc anti-shock system, but they do own the company that makes it (which also makes the Novodiac protection system). ETA makes their own version anti-shock system called Etachoc.

And drill presses, lathe, welding setup and a bunch of pneumatic tools and grinders. All in a 4000 sq. ft. studio. Once in awhile she'll let me play on the lathe. It's old but still does the job! Her dad was a tool and die maker, so some of his skills rubbed off. Here I'm modifying the bevel on a 3646 bezel...

As a matter of fact I do, or my wife does She's an artist in architectural steel and glass Below pic the day it arrived, took awhile to get it all hooked up. She made a small removable shelf for me for small parts.

My wife has a 6ft long bead blasting cabinet and I've been experimenting with it in regards to watch finishes, also knife blades. So here are some pics today from the latest test of blasting media. In this case silicone carbide, fine and extra-fine grit. The case back used was pretty scratched up. I tore a strip of Gorilla tape and applied it to the middle to create a before and after example as well as divide the 2 finishes. The media had no trouble blasting away the scrapes and scratches. Plus it followed perfectly the uneven edge created by tearing instead of cutting. I took pics in 5 different lighting scenarios to show how the finish changes between subtle shades of warm and cool grays. This was SS and am looking for a beater Ti case set to practice on. And definitely, if I come across an AP Diver, it will end up with a bead blasted case

Yeah, I like the fact they went with thinner Flieger-style bezel and bigger crown too. Next to the 3717 for reference...

At an AD. TD's probably won't have one until early next year.

Thanks! My old iPhone still does a pretty good job.

... and I love it! 43mm wide and 15mm tall, so we are talking PAM territory. But the dial is definitely larger in diameter than Luminor's, so both watches have similar visual heft on my wrist (7.5"). Here are a couple of phone pics from this afternoon. I'll try and get some nice macros this weekend of the dial as the fine details are impressive. The supplied gator strap is is typical IWC quality and has a comfy feel straight OOTB. Double AR is really evident at certain angles, at times the timing and minute hands look like they are on the outside of the xtal.