projectologist

Just getting back online. For those corners, I used a couple of micro files from the set below (actual file surface is only 50mm long). I went with the finer mesh (also available in 120/140). After going through a couple of cheap sets of diamond files found on ebay, I decide to try a better quality... HUGE difference! I take it very slow and have the CG body, sans lever, solidly clamped so both of my hands are free to steady the file. Also make sure you have good lighting. Here's a link with more info and where I purchased them... http://www.riogrande...es/114803?pos=7

I finally took the pin out and chucked it up in a collet, then attached it to a drill press. A dremel tool will work as well. To keep it from getting slightly beveled (I wanted it dead flat per gen), I left very little exposed at the end of the collet. I had various grits of wet/dry sandpaper mounted on a flat piece of scrap aluminum. I made sure the sanding block was secure and perpindicular to the collet as it was lowered to the sanding area. Once the pin was sanded flush with the collet head, I polished it and then re-installed it slightly recessed (automatic since it had been slightly shortened from the sanding). I also sharpened the inner corners of the CG body.

Perfect mini collection. Great strap choices too. Well done!

And the screw sittin' just right when you pull the lever back to wind... probably why I usually end up selling my projects because I don't know when to stop ... LOL

RWG is my support group The screws were nothing compared to the set up that finished the CG body in the first pic to how it looks in the second pic (screws are for this one)... Before... After...

It's any easy fix... easiest of course being when you close the lever you won't see it. But if it really bugs you, cut a strip of 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper just wide enough to fit and brush it down. Almost every rep you receive will have it's own manufacturing related issues, some immediately obvious as in your case, others manifest later... welcome to the world of reps

I get a little crazy fine-tuning because I can't bear the thought of having a finished project First up, I was finishing up another Pre-V CG and decided I wanted the CG screws to have more of a satin/fine-brushed finish like I saw in a gen pic. Also wanted the head profile to sit a little deeper with the top of the straight side flush with the hole in the CG body (the front part that is visible when the CG lever is pulled back open). Plus the O.D. had to be turned down too to fit the CG. Chucked up and almost done with the reshape... Slot deepened a little more and cleaned up... You can see the difference in profiles here... Next decided to finish modding an HF CG with sharper inner corners and a flatter slightly recessed lever pin. Xtal passed the water droplets test ...

The 372 started shipping towards the end of 2011. I got to try one on last year when a few trickled into the AD's...

Congratulations... well worth the wait!!! Your pics really show off the great case work. Parts list is as good as it gets. This build has "the look" that's unique to the Pre-V era

Are you sure you're talking about a 359? That model has an open case back and an auto movement.

You're right, the straps are made in Italy and Austria

Looks great!

Someone had asked me how does the OEM Ass trap look with a little age on it. Well this one now has about 3 months of weekly wear on it. No oil added as it comes with quite a bit already embedded... probably why it's immediately comfortable from day one. I scrape the crp out of my watches and straps. The nice thing about this one is that when you scrape it, you can make the scrape go away almost instantly just rubbing it with your thumb. It's the most durable padded strap I've ever owned. Stitching does not fray like I've seen on the rep version. Of course OEM straps are silly money compared to the rep versions, but this one I don't regret when durability and comfort are factored in long-term. The patina is awesome.

With a production run of 3500 (as seen on the case back pic), this would be an E series 111, the first year for this model and came with a polished CG. The thicker Historic brushed CG started showing up during the G series (production run of 2000).

BTW... the gen is on top... case shape looks good

I think it's safe to say they are close enough when it comes to accuracy and overall quality, that ultimately it comes down to preference... base or sub?

Still pretty much holds true... for reps with sausage dials, the H factory still does it better... most sandwich dials = Noob FTW! The best is still a combination of parts from both factories

Gen parts can be found @ www.viapaneristi.com Go to the Acessories Trading forum there and look for username vanniC (you'll see others post gen parts too, but vanni is the most consistent source)... he also works with "want lists" if you email him (he's in Europe).

The smudge is probably the clear plastic sticker they put on it to protect it during shipping. The adhesive can bubble and smear at the edge sometimes, especially if someone had peeled it back then pressed it back down. You can see the edge of the sticker running through the engraving on the case back.

Big +1 for the 390. The one shipping now has a better CG/crown fit and finish than the first run. Plus the strap is very nice!

Had an untouched Little Hero CG in my parts box and decided to finally use it. Fond memories of this one as it was THE after-market Historic CG that filled the void after V CG's ceased to be available. The secondary market for these peaked awhile back, but man o man did we get excited about them when they first came out. So I had my V2 HF 005 and the CG always bothered me. I could never quite get the right feel working with the looseness and lack of crisp snap when it closed. I shaped the LH lever tips at both ends and am happy with the feel now. Zero play in the lever when opened and didn't require much fine tuning. I prefer the solid feel of the non-rollerball lever.

I use Tamiya's paints. The key with using acrylics is laying down the paint in one stroke since it sets up pretty quickly.

Not easy to see unless the light hits it just right, but I decided to do a little over-painting of the lume at the edges of the indices today, you can see it pretty clearly in the 3, 6 and 12, but on the wrist it's barely noticeable. I need to quit looking at macros of gen Pre-V dials (2nd pic shows a gen example of the over-painting). Dial lume isn't as yellow looking outdoors with no AR

All things OP modder extraordinaire w0lf suggested this tool bit when I was at the point of fitting the CG lever to the crown of my 201/A build. I wanted a nicely rounded shape, but didn't want to spend hours slowly filing away with a micro file or try hand-holding a Dremel tool. He suggested trying a chainsaw sharpening stone. They come in 2 sizes and for what I was doing (leaving the lever installed in the CG body) the 4.8mm stone worked best. Works great at lower rpm's than a Dremel tool if you use it as I did with a higher torque drill press at lower speed (less chance of the piece you're holding flying out from under). It was easy holding the CG with the lever closed against the base board with thumbs and forefingers. The stone made quick work of the shaping, maybe 5 min. total. When the fit was just right, I hit the tip area with some 1200 grit and a Tiger cloth. Open to show the desired shape after only a couple minutes of work...

The finish won't rub off. Order from one of the trusted dealers in their section here at RWG.