marrickvilleboy

no the bracelet is what is in question. the endlinks tell me that the bracelet is fake.

great watch! the bezel pearl is great on these new models but it has its flaws too. wear it well!

haha...yeah, I put a genuine 1120 in mine. Those old factory closed models were the king of reps. Once you change out the crown and tube for the genuine ones, they are almost indistinguishable from the genuine.

i am definitely up for one.

haha...i have a bad feeling that only tall people will post here.... =( well looks like tonibari is tallest at 6'9" *looking up*

yep yep...you're both right. Zig, Bazz and Palp all did.

Owned. hahaha....glad i aint married yet.

yeah when i read A & J's post, it did occur to me, but it something that i didn't want to question on their post. But, looking back when i did do a breakdown of that seagull movement, I think it was the same height - almost identical specification. When my head watchmaker had a look, he was so surprised that they managed to replicate the 2892 so well that he said he wasn't sure if he should be impressed or frightened. I then brought in the replica 6497, and he almost fainted. haha the finish all the asian replica movements are poor- the gear train are inferior and the metal is questionable. I'm sorry R1cco as I don't have the seagull 2892 with me in the states so i won't be able to tell you exactly, but i remember that they had the same height and width. alot of parts were interchangable too. hope this helps.

wow...we got some big boys here. thanks Tonibari and Twotone, you both will ruin our average. hahaha. jk.

177/178 is 5'10 183 is 6'

ok, all the talk about wrist size got me thinking about body size. Whats your height barefoot? Remember, they say "all men lie about their height while all women lie about their weight" So before you decide to add 2 inches to your height, lets all be honest. We'll see who is the tallest in our community and perhaps the average height in our forum. I'll start: 5 foot 11 thanks!

genuine Omega GMT with bond seamaster band but with old model clasp. This model is very old, so the price reflects it. The newer models all have the speedmaster style band and clasp.

I agree with you guys! I love the explorer 1 models. I was browsing and found this old vintage explorer....woah....

oh no..... someone please inform this gentleman.

6'7"...omgoodness.......and at 230lbs? you tackling me would be equivalent to me being hit by a light truck....haha jk wear them well btw!

haha on the topic of cufflinks I saw one that resembles the ETA movement - circular and gold color. It was called the ETA/TISSOT movement cufflinks. Kinda cool.

located in NYC. Good luck - I hope you have the right tools at least =)

same method, the leather band will give way when you squeeze that springbar tool in. Everyone watchmaker goes about it the same way. Just make sure you are moving hte leather part away rather than putting a hole through the leather band.

Just like how you would be removing the hour/min/sec hands. Just be careful not to break or bend the pinion. Btw....if you are trying to freeze the 6'o clock subdial - read the guides here. There has been some members who have done this very successfully.

I face this issue alot when i restore old genuine watches. The stem is broken off where the crown ends. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about it. Sometimes, if the part of the stem is still reachable - I would douse it in WD40 overnight and use a pin vice to try to get it out. Its worked about 1 out of 10 times. You will need to get another crown. Sorry buddy.

once they start copying movements.....watches on ebay will never be the same - i mean its tough already....but once they start making rep rolex movements.....who will ever know....

well not if the genuine models do not have the blue tinge. Then you are making the original less accurate. Like r1cco and avitt have already stated, the purpose of AR is in fact to make the dial clear at all angles. The blue tinge i guess is to block out further light rays as it gets filtered out by the dark tinge but I still think normal AR is good. I mean, when you look at people's glasses, they are also ARed, but most of them don't have the blue tinge.

good god..... please...i beg you....please don't write anymore guides.... But if its for a joke....then hahaha....i like it....maybe you can use a crowbar to get the crystal out next time. Just be gentle...hahaha

the SMP's original crystal does not have the blue tinge. Ofrei's crystal will also not have the blue tinge. It is however, stated "anti-reflective" because it does filter out or at least absorb most of the reflection.

wow brave man! i'm glad they are moderately water resistent. wear them well. Btw, any chance of some photos on the asian 45.5 PO? how does it compare to the ETA one?