alligoat

Thanks for the clarification, RS. By the time the GWSD came around, I was under the impression they no longer were using the superdome. If the first pic is a SD, it's very similar to PT's domed crystal and close to Nanuq's SD. I always thought the SD had taller sides. Anyway, at least I'm enjoying my aftermarket service replacement on my GWSD- I'm just happy it's WR for swimming, jet skiing and wadefishing. What good's a fake Rolex if you can't go in the water with it?

The 2846-2 in my PT 1665 is a swiss eta. A screw fell out of one of the gears and became lodged in the movement, stopping it dead- off to the watchmaker I went. He fixed it and confirmed that it was a swiss movement. I'm not aware of this movement being cloned at this point. Of course I also wonder where the heck they are getting all of these movements from. Like freddy says, it hasn't been produced in quite a few years.

Here's a pic I 'borrowed' of a GWSD with the later crystal. The PT 1665 crystal is similar to it. This is the aftermarket Super Dome crystal I put on my GWSD rep- not exactly correct for the later model, but I like it.

Nice build Frank! I'm thinking a 1675 can't be too far behind.

Expensive, and kinda looks like a dial from Ingod44- the red sub one that I looked at.

Yep, Rolex is inconsistent. Just look at the 'Submariner' on your serti dial- note the serifs on the printing. Then look at the LV dial- no serifs. Different dials, differents styles. Variations on 16610 dials have also occured over the years. The flat 'S' dial comes to mind. And Rolex has used the same dial on Subs from mid 80's on- a 16800 dial will fit a 16610.

Shoot B, for $13.60 how can you go wrong? Like jmb says, these crystals always vary a little anyway, so get a few extras! Thanks for the lead! BTW, I got one from Clark's this week and it looks good also.

Jack, don't get too hung up on the two M's- here's a gen dial- look at the m's! As you can see the upper m is left of the m in chronometer. And it's a late model gen LV. Even Rolex varies from run to run on this. Generally, WM9 dials are pretty good, noobs aren't bad and MBW's are third. Like JoJo says, you can always put a gen dial in there (but it's still a fake!)

Nice job LH! That's quite a stable of watches you've gathered. I'll be interested to see how you make out on the 45 minute conversion. Where oh where have all the old Valjoux pros disappeared to? I did see where DW had a replica V72 part for sale- aftermarket. http://cgi.ebay.com/8720-PARTS-VALJOUX-72-/230532429427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35accdb673

I've certainly enjoyed my GWSD 1665. It's a PT case w/ the 2846-2 slow beat movement and an MBW dial. Put on a gen crown and an aftermarket T-39 superdome. It's WR so I swim and wadefish with it. Great beater for $400. Here's a side shot of the domed crystal- it doesn't bother me. I also think the SSD V2 is a good rep to get and Jackjo's mods would make it even better.

I'm not sure how you manage to keep the crystal retention ring on there, but that's where your problem lies. You need a new/correct crystal retention ring. The original PT 1680 came with the retention ring and a plastic (nylon) gasket. The gasket has been omitted and someone glued the crystal in place. You need to remove the crystal, clean off the glue and install a new crystal, and then get a new retention ring which is the correct size and press it on with a crystal press. Then put the flat washer on and snap on the bezel (with the insert). JMB is the one to help you with the crystal retention ring- he's made quite a few of them and knows what it takes. Good luck.

And you're dealing with a 46 year old watch. It could have been polished in the past. The flat bottom part between the two crown guards looks correct to me. I'd look for other things if you're concerned about the watch.

+1 I agree with highoey! But NDT's copy dials aren't bad, if you can get by the price.

This is always a good place to start: http://www.doubleredseadweller.com/comex%20watch.htm A couple of batches of 16800's were put out in the 80's- first were the matte dials and then a batch w/ the gloss dial.

Wow! It looks like you guys are on to something- a good 1675 build. A decent aftermarket dial, a movement and hands and you will be there. Look forward to seeing some more.

Dial size for a 1680 is 26.5mm, 5513 is even smaller. Dial for 16800/16610 is 27.3mm. So a 16610 dial won't fit in a 1680 case.

Bezel assembly is exactly the same- in fact, the 16610 uses the 16800 parts numbers as far as the whole bezel assembly isd concerned and the crystal is the same 295-C2. The case itself has a slightly shallower rehaut and is fitted with the 3035 movement. The 16610 case has the deeper rehaut and takes the 3135 movt.

A local watchmaker should give you the springbar, I'm sure it costs a nickle. I could send you one, but it's easier if you have the bracelet present to make sure it works. Just don't go to a Rolex AD!

Thanks guys. I think my next project may be an 'albino' dialed 6239. Of course, I have to talk DW into making the dial first- but that ought to be easy- just leave off the black paint on the subdials! The Patrizzi Pocket Daytona book has some nice pics of the 'albino' dials- may shoot a pic of one of those tomorrow.

Looks gen to me- pre 2000 with the tritium dial and flat 'S' in Submariner. Proabably has the SS clasp- no gold in it like the later clasps.

Enjoy your new watch, A! It looks good. And if the fantasy clasp was good enough for the Italian water polo team, it's good enough for me!

I wouldn't expect too much from eWatchparts. This is the same as wholesaleoutlet990/watchbandman50/jewelryoutlet550. AKA Mr. Slimeball. Try not to spend too much money with him, because you may just be throwing it away. Certainly it's best if you can source a gen assembly, but they are hard to come by and typically expensive. What I did on my ETZ 16610- A serial with lugholes, is get a gen crystal retention ring. Then I got a couple of aftermarket bezels- one from A and E watches and another from a place I'd have to go dig up the name of. Both were tight fits- I'd press them on with the crystal press, but they wouldn't turn. So I went to sanding by hand with a piece of 340 wet dry sand paper. Sand the inside bottom edge of the bezel so that it will snap over the crystal retention ring. The flat washer and the click spring are also in there, but they weren't a problem. Eventually one of the bezels snapped on and would turn. The only problem at that point was that I couldn't get the gen insert to seat in there and ended up using an aftermarket insert which snapped right in there. I have an older gen insert with tritium pearl and I may sand the edge of it some day and try to fit it in there, but for now I'm just going to put some mileage on the aftermarket insert and enjoy the watch- it is WR at this point. It's the one on the bottom in this dirty pic One night I was fooling around and removed the bezel from my gen 16800. It snapped right on the ETZ 16610. Of course, bezel assemblies for the 16800 and the 16610 are exactly the same. I've found with aftermarket parts that the fit and finish isn't quite as good as with gen parts. You also might see if BK would sell you another bezel- maybe it would work better. BTW, finish on the sides of a gen 16610 bracelet are brushed. 16613 sides are polished.

Looks like you're missing the small springbar that will attach the wetsuit extension to the clasp part of the bracelet- maybe a 13mm springbar- or is it 16mm? Easy quesy if you have extra springbars.

After building a 6238/9 transitional and with parts left over, I decided it would be a no-brainer to build another one with the a 7750 movement. I have the original work in progress- the 'transitional', it's a V72 powered DW 6239 case with the 6238 dial and the 6239 bezel In the process of building this watch, which has been a labor of love for the last two years, I bought a second cartel 6238 and thought I might be able to use some of the parts from it to make the 6238 w/ correct assymetrical pushers. Alas, I was delusional, chinese parts rarely are the same size as gen and the best I've been able to do to date is build a transitional 6238/9. But with an extra cartel 6238, I decided to get a DW 6239/a7750 case and see if I couldn't build another 'redundant bezeled pre-daytona'. It's called 'redundant bezel' because the tachymeter scale is printed on the dial of the 6238 and also on the bezel of the 6239. I must give credit to my friend, LHOOQ, because he's the one who coined the term and I do like it! At any rate, I was able to fit the 6238 dial with a7750 movt in the DW 6239/7750 case and I must say it looks good IMO! It's on the right in this pic, next to the transitional 6238/9 on the left. One note, I did file off the 'tumah' on the crown side of the 6239/a7750 case. It's not completely gone, but almost so- what's left is fairly well hidden by the bezel. But this case really doesn't lend itself to installation of a 6238 bezel- the 'tumah' still shows too much. Luckily the 6239 V72 case doesn't have the same bulge- I may still be able to get a decent plain bezel for it, but I must say, I kinda like the 'redundant bezeled pre-daytona'! One last thing, the a7750 redundant bezeled pre-daytona' isn't too expensive to build- a couple of hundred dollars for the cartel 6238 and another couple for the 6239/7750 case and you're there. Of course, you could buy a 6239/7750 Daytona from DW for about the same price. So pick your poison.

It's kinda like ancient history at this point. I tried logging in- I have't changed my user name and password in 5-6 years but it's not buying it!