alligoat

Looks good A. I agree with ByTor, the dial is an improvement over the red MBW. Now all you have to do is swap in the gen crown and trim up the cg's on the outside to take some meat off of them.

I'm thinking feet first, MKIV....

Real, and very nice.

It looks nice, but you have to keep one thing in mind, it will always be a replica! Not sure about the tritium pearl. Here's a gen to compare with and of course the gen will run 10x more money I would think

Let's see some pics! Is this Josh's latest EXPII?

Wow, nice job RS! That dial is a beaut and the HE valve is no small job. Excellent!

OK, my wife's rep DJ has the closed 6's and 9's on the datewheel. Paul's pic must be pretty old! Her gen which is an L817xxx SN- late 80's- has the open 6's and 9's.

On men's watches, Rolex closed the 6's and 9's somewhere in the late 80's, right after the 16610 Sub came out, circa R serial #'s. I would think the same holds for the women's watches, but don't really know. I'll check my wife's two watches tonight and let you know. My guess is that the reps have the latest DW's w/ the closed 6's and 9's. I know you can't hardly find a open 6 & 9 men's DW these days!

My wife got this TT Ladies DJ and it worked out fine. Women aren't as rough on a watch as men and this one has an ss clasp. It's been a good watch, better than the gen TT DJ she purchased a couple of years later! http://www.prowatch888.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_56_100&products_id=203 It compares favorably side by side with her gen- a few slight differences, but you can always say it's a newer/older model... No glaring faults as far as i'm concerned.

The 4813 is a high beat a21j movement- 28,800bph. I don't know if anyone has a noobmariner LV with that movement. Josh use to have a noobmariner which had a 2813 high beat movement. I don't know if it was a true high beat or chinese hype. You could get the noob LV with the asian eta clone- that's high beat.

Thanks for the side shot, P. Looks alot like my PT 1665 with the G&S T-39. I agree with gplracer, it is a beautiful lume job.

Nice job, JB! I would think a little bit of tea or coffee might give you some patina on the hands and maybe it wouldn't affect the lume, which would be nice.

It's gen and I'd buy it at $1400. The dial is probably OK and since it's tritium, it probably still glows- my 16800 has a dial from that time frame and it glows fine. But you'll spend $1000 at the RSC w/o the bracelet. service- $500, includes new crown and tube crystal bezel insert (might need a new bezel also) polish case If you didn't go to the RSC, you might get it cleaned up and serviced for $500-750. New bracelets are around $1000, but you can pick up a decent used one w/ the correct 501B end pieces for around $500-600.

You can certainly email yuki and ask what the price is. I have priced other Yuki cases and they're in the $450-500 range.

With a SN of F520117, it looks like the updated noob with the rehaut engraving. I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't arrive with the more current SN of M092117! But the noobmariner is an excellent beginner watch. With an eta movement and a few upgrades, it can be an even better beater. http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=257

I don't know if we've seen anyone build a 6542 from a Yuki case and dial yet. I think the cases run around $500 and the dials are $160. http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6924997/7233506.htm An eta w/ GMT hand and a DW overlay and you're about there. Just food for thought...

Looks good. The T-39 certainly gives it a different look- I'd love to see a profile of the crystal.

Try a small hand file, the small 4-6 inch mini files will do. Put a small cloth down on the work table and have at it. Hold the insert down with one hand and file w/ the other. I also use a hand file for doing crown guards (followed by 320-400-600-1000 wet dry sandpaper and polish). A Dremel tool is too fast for me, too easy to have it get away from you and screw up what you're doing, from my point of view. I prefer slow and easy.

I do know that on the 16610 Sub, the SEL bracelet came first and then the lugholes disappeared a few years later. But that's an oyster band. You might need a more modern jubilee bracelet so that you can access the springbars from the backside.

Maybe something like this, eh, freddy? Looks like the GMT hand was also replaced during a service with the larger/later hand.

Here's a gen 16520, it varies from the Silix model with the black borders around the subdials whereas the Silix model has silver borders, which is a dial variation, I believe and not significant. The biggest deal with the asian 7750 Daytonas is the subdial spacing, they're further out than the Zenith powered gens. I don't think it's that big a deal personally. If it bothered you, you could build a Zenith powered franken, but those run around $2500! But there is always a liability factor whenever one purchases any asian 7750 watch. Given the lack of QC, and not necessarily clean build circumstances (lack of proper oiling, unclean surroundings), any asian 7750 is prone to problems. It's the luck of the draw. When I buy asian 7750's I figure there is the initial cost and the servicing factor that have to be figured into the equation. But once an asian 7750 is serviced (around $200 usually) it should be a very dependable watch. If I were going to buy a modern Daytona, it would definitely be a seconds at 9 model.

Wow! Beautiful job Pete, congrats! Those movement pics are particularly cool. Wear it in good health.

Certainly the best starting point at this time is the PT 1680. Red or white dial, it's a great beginner watch.

Good point Jkay! Looks like Josh's website, but it isn't.

@ Vintage 1680, I sure like that relumed w/ superluminova dial you've got there. That's a nice mod and improvement!