alligoat

Warranty for 5 years??? I've never heard of that- even Rolex only gives maybe a 2 year warranty these days. I wouldn't expect anything more than 3-6 months from the rep sellers. Also, that 29 jewel hype on the running seconds at 6 movement has proved to be just that- hype, it ain't true! Daytonas with running seconds at 6 are commonly referred to as expensive paperweights. Some guys like freddy have kept them running with a graphite treatment, others have limited the oiling of the gears to avoid bogging down the movement, and some have removed the running seconds at 6- just freeze the hand at 12 and remove the gears. Needless to say, it's a difficult movement to deal with, Caveat Emptor!

Here's a washed out pic of my old noob, Trimmed the crown guards, installed a gen crown and aftermarket tube, and installed a watchmaterial pearl in the original bezel insert. It was a great beater for 2-3 years, WR, but the eta clone started acting up and my watchmaker won't work on clones! I've moved on to a gen 16800 for a beater these days. The noobs these days have a better crown and tube, more gen like, so it may not be necessary to swap out for gen. Pearls also vary. Crown guards aren't too bad, but still could use a slight trim on the inside edges. Sorry, but I don't have a side by side comparison.

Welcome aboard! First thing is, which Daytona did you get? And secondly, would it be better to just purchase a new watch? Pics of you watch would help us. Descriptions would also be a plus. Things to know are which model is it, 16520, 116520. Running seconds at 6 or 9? Is it a true chronograph movt or just an asian 21j faux chrono? And I'm assuming it's a modern Daytona. It could be vintage!

It would be a good idea to take the braclet off the watch and also tape the brushed side links w/ some masking tape.

I'd be careful with those Tudor Oysterdates- they're 19mm lugs- you can see it in the pics of the first one. Case is 34mm. Same as the Rolex Date, Air King, and Oyster Perpetual (like the 1002)- all 19mm lugs, 34mm cases.

Typically, 4-5 hours of wear should get you thru the nite. The other issue could be that your movement is in need of a servicing. These surplus movements from china aren't always the cleanest, or best oiled.

Are you looking for a modern Daytona? And are you aware of the issues with the modern Daytonas with the running seconds at 6? The movements aren't very reliable.

Excellent on the resize and it's a great pic- clear and crisp. Good job.

It's a beautiful watch! I just wish I didn't want to fix the lume on the seconds hand and in-paint the bezel numbers w/ black! BTW, I would date it to around 1978 w/ the 5.5m SN. Does your paperwork say earlier?

Man J, that's a cool watch! It would be perfect for a young boy/kid/teenager, which I have none of at this point! Like you say, it would also work well for a woman. What movement are you putting in there?

http://www.1-pc8838.com/rlsv01103-vintage-comex-submariner-asia-a2813-28800-p-7808.html Actually, I think this 5514. which came out last year, is a chinese copy of the MBW. I don't think it's from the same mfr as the PT 1665 and PT 1680- which Josh has also. here's Josh's 1665 w/ the 2846 http://www.1-pc8838.com/rlsdv01012-vintage-1665-great-whitealternative-swiss-2846-p-8529.html same as PT's as far as I can tell A T-19 is correct for a 5514 and cheaper than a Clark's T-39, but a 39 should fit- and would be a high dome.

Looks like a nice WM9 v1. Can you crop it down to 768 x 1064 or something more manageable?

What about a PT 1665 and then install a 5514 dial? You'd have the slo-beat 2846, HE valve case, good bracelet and drilled lugholes.

That 2836 with the MBW datewheel would be perfect for a 16800/16660 build!

I measured my PT 1665 dial- it comes in at 26.45mm according to my CN calipers. It might be that the PT 1680 dial is too big if it's the same diameter as the 1665 dial- those MBW cases have to have the slightly smaller dial. Good luck with catching up with Reg.

Me three on the dial swap. Also, keep trimming the cg's- too much meat on the outside and top Wish I had a better gen pic, but all of the reps have cg's that are too fat Thanks to RM for this pic! Good job, Chi!

The biggest flaw to the current versions of the Submariner 116610 is the polished mid links. This can be fixed by brushing them (the mid links). Lume on these models should be blue, if I'm not mistaken. Case and bezel/insert are OK. Can't help you on who has the best model. Check the dealer section and start asking the dealers. I'd figure these models all come from 1 or 2 factories, just my educated guess!

Very nice JB! I like the jubilee, but I would think a rivetted oyster would be more apropos. Are you going to fit a T-12 on this?

That's a 'frog dial'! The Rolex crown emblem on the dial looks like a frog's foot! Can you imagine the rep makers replicating a frog dial? I don't think so, Tim! Very nice, I wish I knew more about the various bezels, etc. Can't tell if the datewheel is silver or not from the pic, but I would think so. Very nice!

Have you tried contacting Narikaa? I don't know if he can help or not, but he does have access to MBW's. Another thought is what about a PT 1680 white dialed sub? Maybe you could transplant the dial, 2846 movement and datewheel into an MBW case. The only drawback is that the MBW 1680 dial is 26.2mm and a gen is 26.5mm and won't fit in an MBW case w/o mods (yuck). Don't know what the size of the PT 1680 white dial is. And the PT 1680 has a hollow mid link 93150 bracelet (with the wrong end links- 285's, I believe). http://puretimewatch.com/product/vinatage-white-submariner-1680/ I bet jmb could measure a PT 1680 dial and tell you what the diameter is- that would tell you if my little scheme would work!

'State of flux' pretty accurately describes the chinese watch industry, JB! Sometimes things improve for the better and sometimes they don't. As close as those 1665's and 1680's are to being right on, it's a shame they can't get them right. If they did it right, it couldn't cost them $5 more!

SEL's come attached to the bracelet, 92350 in the case of a modern 16610 sub- so you'd just need to buy a complete bracelet- Silix sells them as I recall.

They're just a cheap pair of rep end pieces- worth maybe $5. They hopefully would fit a 93150 oyster bracelet which is correct for early subs (5513, 5512, 1680, 1665) on to the early 16610's thru around 2000 when the 93250 came out with SEL's.

My wife had the TT DJ rep but it was a while back and it had the swiss eta, worked fine. Then she bought a gen TT DJ and had it serviced- it was a quickset date as I recall. Well, she couldn't keep it wound because she took it off every nite before bed. The next morning it would have stopped. Took it back to the watchmaker, but he said everything was OK. I've run into other women who've had the same problem. Apparently women don't move their wrists as much as their jaws! Now my wife wears a nice 14K quartz dress watch and I think quartz watches are just about right for most women.

If this is the Trusty 5513 you have in mind: http://www.trustywatchguy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=216 I'd stay away. I agree with pyrite, crystal is wrong, case is wrong, dial is too yellow, can't drill the lugholes- they're poorly placed. Now, Paul has a 3-6-9 5513 which isn't too bad http://www.prowatch888.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_56_72&products_id=1199 Better crystal, you can pop out the metal surround pearl and put in a vintage acrylic dot, drilling the lugs is fine, I even put in a "gen" dial and it fit. Trimmed the cg's and made it WR. Nice little beater with a true swiss eta. Sorry about the pic, but you get the idea Of course, an MBW is still the way to go if you're serious although you could swap in a gen type 5513 dial into a PT 1665 and have a nice watch (with an HE valve to boot!) Maybe in the next few months someone will come out with a PT type 5513, like the 1665 and 1680's out now.