alligoat

Very nice. You're very lucky you were able to get the retention ring and nylon gasket back on w/o screwing up the gasket! I think you're right about these watches all being the same, PT, josh and Andrew- all $198. I don't know where they're coming up with all of these 2846-2's!

I seem to recall with an MBW that you may have to drill and retap the case hole- like a 2.65mm drill bit and then the 3mm x .35 tap. I tried running a tap thru an MBW 16610 rep and broke the tap! here's a 703 crown on the bay- it's a modern one http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-16610-Submariner-703-Watch-Crown-Part-/330417282036?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cee679bf4 aftermarket tubes are like $12 from Yuki, and he may sell aftermarket crowns also. I've had good results with the 7030 case tube from wholesaleoutlet990 lately- the one decent part that Mr. Slimeball sells!

Beautiful job T! Even though the case wasn't marked the way you wanted it, it looks like it's a nice case, taking gen parts and all. It would be cool to see more of those around.

Only other flaw is the crown guards- you need to file the inside edges- make them look more like the gens- look at this gen 1680 on the right

the latest bunch of reps aren't too bad- they're getting better. You need to figure a new bezel insert- pearls on trusty's and NDT's leave something to be desired. After that, a little bit of aging and you should be good to go.

Nice write up AP. And too bad about the lume. Sometimes I think it's just the luck of the draw, I ended up with a Steelfish Super Ocean with really great lume- the kind where you walk in the house during the day and the lume is glowing inside and it's not even dark- reminds me of one of my Ziggy relumes- which is where I'm sure you're going next. Take care.

Thanks for the heads up, R. I'd like to build an Explorer like this, but I was thinking of using a 1500 Date case and an eta movement, so I'd be cutting off the dial feet! Hopefully I've saved a couple of hours right off the bat!

I can't see it being a rep dial, JB. Back in those days, Tudors were too cheap to rep! But I am moving the dial date back to the 50's! Most likely a 7809 and would have come with the FE390 movement. Here's a close one on the bay http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-Tudor-Oyster-Prince-Automatic-Watch-7809-/280488616186?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Wristwatches&hash=item414e6ca0fa Markers are the same, so I'm thinking right before the debut of the Oyster Prince and the Tudor Rose maybe...

Here's a link to some vintage Tudors, JB. Similar to yours, but not exact http://www.watchestobuy.com/newpage2.htm

These are what I refer to as alpha hands on this 6234 gen. Sometimes they're also called dauphine hands. The stick hands were from the middle 60's on. But I think of your dial as early 60's...

Nice job JB, that smooth bezel did the trick. I'd figure that's a late 50's, early 60's dial. What about a set of alpha hands??? That would really give it the vintage feel.

Here's a link to the brown one http://www.trustywatchguy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_237&products_id=6339 and the black one http://www.trustywatchguy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_237&products_id=6340

Milgausser is a price gouger! Yes it is the correct crown, but then you'd have to use the 24-6030-0 tube which is 5.3mm and 2.5mm hole size. The existing hole in your rep case is 3.0mm probably. Capisce?

Maybe that watch will be out in an asian 21j movt soon! I hate to spend too much money when all I'm doing is buying a case!

Looks good! The first thing I look at is the date mag and it's fine. If the asian 2836 holds up well, you've got it made! Enjoy your new watch.

The first DRSD's hit around 1967. At that point the 1570 (or 1575 technically because of the date feature) movt didn't hack. About the time Rolex introduced hacking (72-73), the DRSD was phased out and the GWSD was introduced. So yes, a GWSD should hack probably.

This would be fine if you can get it for $218 with the latest ceramic bezel and other misc upgrades. Maybe even as much as $258, but not more. I agree w/ Member X, just buy the asian clone and go down the road. I'd certainly never pay extra for the asian 3135 clone- it's just an asian eta clone with the fancy bridges- certainly no better than the straight asian eta clone.

Bakelite inserts didn't hold up worth a flip! I'd figure the new insert at the same time as the dial so the fading is OK, IMO.

I'm thinking it would be a 24-603-0 crown which, like ubi says, fits on the 5.3mm tube. The 5.3mm tube is smaller, and takes a 2.5mm tap (smaller hole in the case). The older 24-6020-0 tube takes a 3.0mm x .35 tap. The 603 crown most likely won't fit on your rep case tube and I don't see how you could fit a 5.3mm case tube in your rep case if you have a 3mm hole already. Have you tried to find a 24-602-0 crown? Jewelerstools in Arizona has crowns, but he rarely lists them with the current Rolex terminology. He uses the outdated number system (#26, #29, etc.) and I frankly don't think he knows which crown he is selling, but if he did happen to refer to it as a 602, you might get lucky. DJ crowns should run $15-20, used.

The watch on watch-finder's site is a gen. But it may be a replacement dial since it says 'Swiss- T<25'. Tritium came out around 1963-64 and the GMT 1675 was already out by then. Prior to that Rolex marked the dials 'Swiss' and was using radium for lume. The dial on this 6542 was probably replaced during service in the 70's or 80's. Just another reason for LHOOQ not to spend 20,000 pounds on it!

Interesting. So 24replicawatches steals the pic- do they send you a rep watch or just take your money? If someone were truely repping a 6542, you know we'd be all over it!

I already know that you can do some pretty neat stuff with the lathe, JB, but this is even better!

This Chronotac watch is similar and sterile if you have a dial and movement it might work: http://cgi.ebay.com/70s-vintage-submariner-chronotac-automatic-watch-/290426483798?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Wristwatches&hash=item439ec47456 They used to make a vintage GMT, but I can't find it now. Might try google! Also one of the dealers out of England- Homer, I believe, used to carry a line of no-name knock-offs- Sub, etc, but they were modern (sapphire/mineral crystal) w/ eta 2836-2's.

Can't tell if it has the T's on either side, but it sure must be about the same timeframe. Cool!

I'll buy that. I had missed the T's, but the 63-64 timeframe is consistent as far as the switch to tritium goes. Reminds me of the 3-6-9 5513 sub dial in Skeet & Urul where the T<25 ended up on both sides of the Swiss at the bottom. Rolex did some unusual things in those days.