Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

alligoat

Platinum Member
  • Posts

    6,315
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Everything posted by alligoat

  1. Yep, it's definitely time for a service. That's an old tudor movement and the basic rule is to service every 5 years. Sure you can go 7, maybe even 10, but you're dealing w/ a movt that's what, maybe 20 yrs old? Heck, the 2824 came out in the early 80's, so your movt may be 30 yrs old+.
  2. Absof***inglutely amazing, a little over 1 hour to go and it's up to $8200 again. There's way too many idiots w/ money out there!
  3. Man Adam, you are almost in the center of the universe being in Hong Kong! At least the watch making center of the universe. A lot of the rep dealers move between HK and GZ and certainly one of them could even point you in the right direction as to where to get a rep serviced. Andrew, Josh, Angus and Paul all come to mind. Take Andrew, aka Trustytime, he offers servicing on new reps- so he has a watchmaker- maybe in Ghangzhou, but there's got to be someone in HK. And prices have got to be better in HK than sending it anywhere else (except Asia).
  4. JMB is the one. What you'd probably need to do is send him the bezel and maybe the crystal, possibly even the case- from there he turns the retention ring on his lathe. He saved my PT 1665 by turning a new ring for me. Took a little bit of filing, but it turned out great.
  5. Looks good so far! BTW, Rolex added the hacking feature to the 1570 movt around 1972 or so. My 1978 gen hacks. I agree with you in that the PT DW sits inboard of the MBW DW. After installing the MBW GWSD dial on my PT 1665 I noticed that. The 27 is pushed to the inside of the MBW window. I've got the same red sub (from Watchmaster- same as MBW) and I don't know what to do with the dial either I even have an extra relumed MBW red sub dial from Ziggy, but I just can't get excited about it- that red Submariner print is just too large!
  6. Good point, chief. I don't know if the dial is gen or not. I always look at the '3' in 30 on the 3 o'clock subdial- where the bottom tail on the 3 comes out more than the top tail- but I can't tell in this case. But you're right- that's where all the value is in this watch if the dial is gen. Freddy is the Daytona dial expert!
  7. Looks like a cool watch for $60, JB! Who would ever call anyone out wearing a Tudor!
  8. Very nice, RS! Did you use an old 702 crwon and tube on this project? It's also cool to see a NDT dial fitting in an MBW case- I'd like to know how that went. Overall it's a great job, congrats!
  9. Certainly do- there's the Daytona Bible- "Rolex Daytona- a legend is born". http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000P9PB0K/ref=dp_otherviews_0?ie=UTF8&s=books&img=0 This book takes you from the Pre-Daytona 6238 thru to the 16520's. And looking at the watch on the bay, as LHOOQ aptly pointed out, the case is a 6036. The 6036 was an early triple date chrono powered by a Rolex modified Valjoux 72C. This watch has a 6036 case, but it's not a triple date. In fact, the movement isn't even a Rolex movement- it's a V72B that was taken out of another watch and a Rolex bridge (referred to as the chrono bridge) was installed. The balance is wrong, gears are wrong- it's just not a Rolex modified movement- no 'Fabr. Swiss- Swiss Made' on the train bridge. Dial is a Paul Newman dial made for a gold Rolex like a 6263, chrono seconds hand is wrong (as are the minute and hour hands), pushers are correct for a 6036, but the 7mm crown is all WRONG! Bracelet is a 93150- correct for a submariner, end pieces- a 593 is a 20mm end piece for a 16800 sub- must have been filed down to fit the 19mm lugs on the old 6036 case. This watch is a perfect example of a FRANKEN- a watch put together from various parts. Unfortunately it's a poor franken- the parts don't even match to make up a correct watch- it's not a 6036, a 6239 or a 6263- it's nothing. I hope this all made sense to you, Rolexaddict. I just thought of another thing- the case isn't even legit! A 6036 case would have a couple of small pusher buttons on the 8-10 o'clock side of the case for adjusting the date and month- those are missing. All in all it's a very poorly done franken!
  10. alligoat

    MBW 1680

    A quick run thru ebay- Rolex 1680 Submariner- only turned up one DW w/ the serifs- a late white sub at Robert Maron. the rest were w/o. I wonder if PT could get you a silver DW?
  11. alligoat

    MBW 1680

    That little flair at the end of the numerals is a serif! It is correct on certain Rolex DW's. I'm not sure if it's correct for the 1680- I'll look at my gen tonight. As I recall, the MBW DW that I have on my red sub rep has the same serifs. You could remove your DRSD dial and install your red sub dial and see how the PT DW works out- it should be fine. You'd also have the 2846-2 movt which is more correct- 21600bph vs 19800 on the 1570 Rolex movt. The 2836-2 is 28800 bph.
  12. alligoat

    MBW 1680

    Do you have the standard white MBW DW? If so, the older ones used to line up fine- mine does. If yours is a white DW, it would appear that the quality may have slipped some. However, the newer DW's- like the silver one ETZ sells and the PT one in the 1665 are more correct in terms of fonts- like the flat top 3's and color- the brushed silver. The ETZ DW is $20 plus s&h- I bought one a few months ago, but I haven't installed it yet on my 2846-2 movement so I can't say if all of the dates line up. On my PT 1665, most dates are fine, but not all are perfect. The MBW Red Sub dials main flaw is that the red sub printing is too large. The MBW white sub dial is much better. Problem is you can't fit anyone else's red sub dial in an MBW case w/o mods to either the case or the dial.
  13. I reported it this time. This seller must not know much about Rolex chronographs if he/she thinks it's legit!
  14. It looks like some great 'parts'. Someone's going to buy it and build a great franken..., and then probably try to sell it as gen... The trick would be finding a good red sub dial (MKI or MKII) and an older non-hacking 1570 movement. Old tritium hands and a silver DW would complete the package.
  15. Certainly sounds cool to me T! I would think the 2846-2 would be the movement of choice in these apps with the 21600 bph.
  16. The price is fine. A click spring and the flat washer and you'd have the whole bezel assembly. I agree w/ watcher, the tension ring and bezel look gen.
  17. The insert and the pearl look OK to me. But it's always tough when you're looking at a pic. Did you ask the guy if the parts are gen?
  18. I have the 1665 GWSD dial from MBW, it's an off-white- very slight yellow tinge similar to the pic of the MBW 5512. I think that's the closest to white you will get w/o going w/ a relume. Natalie at NDTradingcorp will make one custom for you but it's expensive. A $65 dial from ETZ and a $100 relume from Kent Parks??? I remember some of Miguel's pics of his MBW 5512 over at RG, you might check them out. Other than the fact that the MBW lume doesn't shine at all, I like the off-white color.
  19. The dial feet won't fit, but as is typically the case, you can remove the dial feet and glue the dial to the top ring of the movement and in turn glue the top ring to the movement. You'll need a datewheel overlay also. Best bet would be a 2836-2 with the GMT hand. And the 2836-2 will need to fit the case you're using- esp in regards to stem alignment.
  20. Originally, 1680, 5513 and 1665 came with the earlier 24-702 crown and tube assemblies, 701's if they date from the 60's. But most have been updated by Rolex Service Centers to the 24-703 assembly as a part of routine servicing. The CousinsUK aftermarket 24-7030 tube would go well with your decent crowns. I recently upgraded my GWSD with the gen crown and rep tube- the 24-703 assembly.
  21. You know M, it's too bad the Narikaa dial says 'Swiss Made'. I do think some judious aging on both of the dials would help, esp. Lani's MBW dial. Maybe it would tone down some of the grey dial print. I do like that gilt yuki dial I hate having to cut dial feet to put it in a rep.... But I'm not going to spend $2K building a Yuki franken when you can buy a gen 1016 for $3K (thought I saw one for $2750 on VRF this week). You're drilled lugholes look goood to me!
  22. They all look like the 24-703 crowns (the Tudor appears to be the 24-703 equivalent). Given the shape of the crown emblems, they are the later ones. Some of the spring/tube assemblies do look rough.
  23. I love the typos also- 5538 big crown 1019 Explorer I Comex 2119- unless what he's trying to say is it's a 1665, #2119. Also, the 5510 came with a 1530 movement, possibly a 1560 if it was chronometer rated. 1030's were in the 6538 and 6536's.
  24. Thanks for sharing your story, Arthur. And I'm praying for your speedy recovery. Prostate health is becoming a bigger issue all the time for men over 50. Guess it's time for me to go see the doctor again.
  25. It's amazing that something that's so far off fetches $9500 in an auction! Interesting about the 6036 case with lugholes on only one side- never seen that. Movement is all wrong. And a 7mm crown... with old pushers. How the heck do you fit a 93150 bracelet and 593 end piece(20mm) on a 19 mm case- I guess file down the ends. Amazing what unscrupulous people will sell and idiots will buy!
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up